What TYPE of grapple (not brand or salesteam) to go with?

[4570Man]

I’d rather have a close tine bottom. The huge grapple on my skid steer has a lot of space between the tines and it’s nearing useless for picking up small stuff and that still leaves a lot of rake work in a finished grade job. I usually put the tooth bucket on to rake with because I can do a better job with it.

 

[mcfarmall]

Close tine spacing and a solid back plate to prevent pokers through the tractor grille. Won't tell you who makes one because you specifically stated that you didn't want to know.

 

[oosik]

The tine spacing on my rock and root grapple is 6". The tine spacing played absolutely no part in my choice of grapple. I have very little brush, NO small rocks, NO vines on my 80 acres. I only have stands to ancient Ponderosa pine, lots and lots of bunch grass and the occasional rock the size of a refrigerator. And, BTW, the joke about the land in this area- "don't fall asleep at the switch - somebody may come with a pickup and steal all the dirt off your 80 acres". Lots and lots of acres with less that a foot of dirt over solid basaltic lava bedrock. Ma Nature also gave the nicest five acre pond you could ever want.

On the rare occasion that I feel the need to clean up a fallen pine(pine bark beetle) - I will use the grapple to drag, bunch and collect the limbs pruned off the fallen tree.

I move and position large rocks and large chunks of P. pine with the grapple.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

This TBN thread covers the different styles and should give you some useful pointers:

Which Wicked Grapple? A Guide.
by Travis.

 

[handcuff]

Close tine spacing and a solid back plate to prevent pokers through the tractor grille. Won't tell you who makes one because you specifically stated that you didn't want to know.

I was thinking the same thing about the solid back and tight tine spacing on the bottom. I have a couple different options that I'm looking at, but would be very interested in additional suggestions.

I didn't want this to (d)evolve into a question of 'what brand' to buy, but wanted to focus on what design of grapple. As I've been researching, I figured the 'L bottom' is more what I need. But since I'm not going to be digging as much as I'm going to be collecting brush and firewood, my needs are somewhat different from others that I read in these forums. In talking to my tractor dealer, he suggested a solid bottom bucket (open ends) with a grapple on the top, from Titan. I don't see many people using that, so I figured this type of discussion would would help my understanding.

This TBN thread covers the different styles and should give you some useful pointers:

Which Wicked Grapple? A Guide.
by Travis.

That's an awesome thread with a lot of pictures that are helpful. I have read through it a couple of times, and used it as I came up with the idea of the "L bottom" grapple. Now I'm trying to figure out if I go with a rock grapple (tight tines on the bottom, different type of teeth) or the standard grapple typically shown on that thread (wide gaps between tines). I've read many, many positive things about your grapples and you are on my list. I'm trying to determine (1) what type of design to get, and (2) what the real ROI is for me, in my particular situation? Your grapples are incredibly nice, but are somewhat more expensive (as quality products often are). I'm trying to figure out if I'll use the grapple enough to make it worth the additional expense and need the additional quality. I do truly appreciate your contributions to the forums - in reading any of the threads, you are one of the voices that are always present and providing insights and information, so thank you!

-Scott

 

[DieselBound]

Closely spaced tines will tend to clog up more. Yeah, too far apart and you have stuff falling through. I've found that the bigger issues is with stuff falling out the SIDES more than through the tines. It's a tough balancing act, grabbing a lot of material and keeping it within the (bite of the) grapple (and doing so over the distance you need to take it). If a solid bottom with a straight edge just doesn't do real well well for grabbing: I battled a lot with loose timber on the ground and a just a bucket; then I learned about tooth bars and after installing one on my [first] tractor I found out that teeth are a HUGE improvement!).

Quality means that when you have to use something it will get the job done. Light and strong are essential attributes when considering quality loader implements for CUTs.

I have to chuckle at ROI. It's almost impossible to calculate. I can state one thing that most probably don't factor (and it's something that I DID), and trhat's saving one from physical harm/stress. I've chucked up enough heavy objects into loader buckets (and even on top of a box blade- to the tune of about 200 lbs- by hand and back). Saving a SINGLE trip to the doctors could be all it takes to meet 100% ROI. However, if used in a business then it comes down to more simplified numbers (which tend to downplay medical benefits).

While my grapple is an on-going-use implement, my box blade was mostly purchased for a single job: fencing project. The box blade cost a fair bit more than the grapple. I spent about $8k on equipment purchases (dump trailer for hauling fill material and the box blade) for the project. In the end I likely saved about $5k over someone else doing the work; BUT, I have thousands of dollars of equipment (which I still use, and will continue use): it's quality equipment- I really cannot break it (which means that when I go to use it I KNOW it will perform as I require it to; and there's a higher resale value, though I usually am not so interested in this aspect).

Time lost to broken equipment, whether money-earning business work or personal work, is time lost. I have windows of time in which to do certain tasks. If equipment breaks on me that often sets me back a lot.

 

[handcuff]

@DieselBound - verygood point regarding having equipment that's ready to go in the limited windows wherein I am available to use it...I agree. I'm buying a new tractor with a cab for exactly that reason so I need to use that lens when viewing this purchase also. I haven't thought about the tines getting clogged, but that's a good point also.

In talking about ROI, my point was more from the "I'm going to get a grapple - now I need to figure out if I'm going to get a more expensive one that is higher quality, or a lower expense one that is still sufficient for MY needs..." The same argument I make when I buy some esoteric tools at Harbor Freight. If I am not likely to use the tool an incredible amount but I still have a need for the tool, I don't always need the Snap-On quality to get me through. That's how I'm evaluating this, because I don't know how much I'll use it. I've had a tractor for the last 5 years, and haven't had one (but had several places where it would be helpful). Now I'm trying to determine if the additional cost for EA's grapple will be a wise investment for someone who may have limited use for the grapple, over a less expensive grapple that will still 'perform' but not be as robust/high grade.

 

[DieselBound]

Ha ha! You're talking with someone (me) who excels at analysis-paralysis!:laughing: What happens is that one is really trying to predict the future. But, as I stated, a tool is no good if it breaks on you when you're really counting on it. I made sure that when I got box blades that I got super-tough ones; there are a lot of stories (with pictures!) showing what happens when you attempt to do tough work with a sub-par box blade: I have broken a scarifier on one (no box blade is immune) and broken linkage on a hydraulic scarifier bar (I didn't need to use the scarifiers so I just blocked up the bar- still have the new piece sitting on my shelf); there's also the downside in that a hefty piece of equipment will over-strain your tractor (my beefy box blade on my Kubota held up as it bend one of my lower link arms!). One has to really assess the performance requirements. And when you really get down to it it's almost always better to lean toward the better piece of equipment as that will provide extra cushion (whereas with a lesser grade of equipment one tends to walk on egg shells wondering if it's going to hold up- provides for extra adrenaline rushes and anxiety).

You're doing the right thing in really pressing yourself on the needs. I'd suspect that you're going to end up with something that will pretty much do what you want; and usually one manages to adapt to any differences to make it all work out (given that they initially apply due diligence in assessing their requirements). Sometimes things turn into a learning experience: value is there; you can sell the equipment and buy something else that will better suit your NOW more clearly understood needs (that was the case with me and bush hogs).