Wire feed welder

[MoArk Willy]

I bought a small DC arc welder last fall. I am very happy with it. I am just a hobbyist with a small shop and mostly use it to fabricate small items and fix the bigger ones.
I. have thought of getting a small wire feed welder but I'm not sure if I will use or need it. Should I decide to do so, should I opt for a MIG welder or is a FLUX wire all that I should consider?
I'm just wondering what the rest of you have done or bought for your situation.

Thanks for any input you can give me.

 

[RNeumann]

Mig has more options and is the “industry standard”. Wire feed is a cheaper option- like $100 on amazon cheap......I bought my nephews the amazon welder as a gift and it seems to work OK- not great but OK.

For me, I’d spring for the MIG. A 175+ amp machine can weld about anything with enough passes. You should watch for a used machine- they pop up regularly

 

[Jeepnford]

I would get one with shielding gas. You can always put in a roll of flux core if needed for welding outdoors or steel that's not spotless. I also think a 175 or more amps on 220V is better. Watch Craigslist if you would consider used and try before you buy to make sure it works.

 

[CincyFlyer]

I would get one with shielding gas. You can always put in a roll of flux core if needed for welding outdoors or steel that's not spotless. I also think a 175 or more amps on 220V is better. Watch Craigslist if you would consider used and try before you buy to make sure it works.

Just make sure it's compatible with flux core, which often runs with opposite polarity from MIG. I have an HF 180 amp 220 gas/flux combo, it's been great so far after three years. I've yet to hook gas to it!

 

[Ritothebull]

I would rather have one really good welder than two cheap ones, and I welded for many years with stick welders before I ever touched a mig machine.

 

[IchabodCrayne]

Buy a decent mig welder.
Make sure it's set up for gas shielding with regulator and solenoid. You can always use it with inner shield/flux core wire instead of using gas when in breezy conditions.

 

[bunyip]

I sstarted with a cheap 90a welder which was not that good but performed some light work, next step was a 185a, had a choice of two that were about $500 and $700 au$, the major difference was a 10% duty cycle vs 25%, I opted for the bigger one.
Both have stick and gas capabilities as well as gasless and polarity change, a spool gun is also available for the bigger one.
Both are invertter, Unimig which I think is a local name for a universal product.

 

[TractorNH]

I do all of my welding with stick but wanted something portable for those times when I can't bring an item to the welder. I didn't like the reviews on the HF cheapos and I came across the Forney Easy Weld 299 125FC flux core welder on Amazon. I've only used it a few times so far but I like it and it will serve it's purpose which is to be able to bring the welder to the work and plug it into a standard wall outlet.

Here's a link:
Forney Easy Weld 299 125FC Flux Core Welder, 12-Volt, 125-Amp - - Amazon.com

 

[fried1765]

Mig has more options and is the “industry standard”. Wire feed is a cheaper option- like $100 on amazon cheap......I bought my nephews the amazon welder as a gift and it seems to work OK- not great but OK.

For me, I’d spring for the MIG. A 175+ amp machine can weld about anything with enough passes. You should watch for a used machine- they pop up regularly

I watched and waited, and got lucky.
Bought a NEW Hobart Handler 190, (190 amp 220V) MIG welder for $455.
Hobart is owned by Miller.
No tax...free shipping....super deal!

 

[BigBlue1]

I watched and waited, and got lucky.
Bought a NEW Hobart Handler 190, (190 amp 220V) MIG welder for $455.
Hobart is owned by Miller.
No tax...free shipping....super deal!

Where did you find that?

Rob

 

[newbury]

This thread prompted me to do a search on "wire feed welders" and brought up what is to me a scary article.

The 4 Best Wire-Feed Welders
Wire-feed welders let you conquer the world of metal, whether your reattaching the feet to a fireplace grate or fixing the broken axle on a trailer

4 Best Wire Feed Welders - Entry Level Welders Review

Please don't get a 120V welder to fix a broken axle on a trailer and drive on the road in front of me. Unless you are a VERY GOOD welder. I've been driving and had a wheel w/tire come flying off a boat trailer in front of me and hit my van. Not nice.

MIG can make pretty welds, MIG can make strong welds and weak welds that look pretty.

 

[Lelandwelds]

This thread prompted me to do a search on "wire feed welders" and brought up what is to me a scary article.
4 Best Wire Feed Welders - Entry Level Welders Review

Please don't get a 120V welder to fix a broken axle on a trailer and drive on the road in front of me. Unless you are a VERY GOOD welder. I've been driving and had a wheel w/tire come flying off a boat trailer in front of me and hit my van. Not nice.

MIG can make pretty welds, MIG can make strong welds and weak welds that look pretty.

This article is an excellent example of why you shouldn't get your welding equipment and information off the internet. Find a brick and mortar local welding supply you like. Find a knowledgeable local to buddy with and learn by doing with the good stuff. Just say no to Amazon and Harbor Freight.

Your "weak welds" comment is another way of saying "too small, crappy welder gives inadequate penetration." Buy a name brand quality machine of sufficient size. They're easier to learn with and parts and consumables are readily available.

Trailer axles are not vehicle axles. Instead of medium carbon low alloy, they're often basically just a mild steel pipe and easily welded.

 

[erkme73]

Boy do I feel like the rookie here. I bought a 90A 120V flux-core wire-fed welder from HF a few years ago (<$100). Cranked up to 8 on the wire speed, and using the 0.035 wire, I was able to get plenty of penetration to reattach the rusty blade arm to the 3PH frame on my scraping blade. It's all I had to fix it, and if it didn't hold, not much lost.

I used a HF grinder to clean up the original busted/rusted weld and had at it. I beat the crap out of it since, and no sign of it letting loose. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I'm OK with the results, and while I wouldn't use it on any life-critical things (like axles), I can't think of any other fixes/fabs that I would do with it that would see more abuse than the scraper blade fix.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Your "weak welds" comment is another way of saying "too small, crappy welder gives inadequate penetration." <snip>

No, it was a way of saying it looks good but the operator did not have enough experience to make a good weld with penetration and did not check the penetration. From my readings the only way to really check the penetration is to cut through the weld or beat the snot out of it.

I've seen many pics of pretty mig welds on here and elsewhere that were a little better than hot glue. And I'm sure one could make a pretty MIG weld with a $2,000 machine and not get penetration.

Boy do I feel like the rookie here. I bought a 90A 120V flux-core wire-fed welder from HF a few years ago (<$100). Cranked up to 8 on the wire speed, and using the 0.035 wire, I was able to get plenty of penetration to reattach the rusty blade arm to the 3PH frame on my scraping blade. It's all I had to fix it, and if it didn't hold, not much lost.

I used a HF grinder to clean up the original busted/rusted weld and had at it. I beat the crap out of it since, and no sign of it letting loose. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I'm OK with the results, and while I wouldn't use it on any life-critical things (like axles), I can't think of any other fixes/fabs that I would do with it that would see more abuse than the scraper blade fix.

And I'm pretty sure Shield Arc, who only has few weeks of experience (or so he writes ) could make good welds on truck axles with coathangers and a car battery if he had to!

 

[PILOON]

Most of my welding is with a 220 amp Hobart and I never had any failures.
6013 is my 'go to' rod.

Not long ago I sprung for a cheap wire welder for very thin materials.
Works so-so but sure splatters a lot.
Is that the norm? or is it the wire they provided.
Also I find the wire feeds out much too fast, that or I am too slow.

I had developed a technique with the Hobart whereby I'd sort of do small 'spot welds' on thin stock but more often than not burn thru every 5th or so 'spot'.
That is what prompted me to try the wire machine.
LOL also discovered not to weld close to dinner time as the circuits seem loaded.

 

[IchabodCrayne]

A very large part of a good strong weld is preparation and fit up. Good penetration is not based solely on size/power of the welder.
Just like owning a sub compact tractor doesn't limit you to only cutting grass.
Yes. More power makes things easier and faster but not necessarily better.

 

[erkme73]

That's a very good point. I was so proud of myself for getting that scraper blade back together in a way that actually held well, that I thought I'd treat myself to a "real" welder. But, before I could pull the trigger, I realized that for the odd and infrequent things I weld, this little Fisher-Price HF thing seems to work ok for my needs. I guess my point to posting is this - if someone considering getting a welder, they might not want to dismiss the smaller, cheaper HF toy welder, as it really does work surprisingly well - even in a novice's hands.

That said, I'm sure if I ever use a $1000k+ welder, I'd never go back, but given the results of my $90 welding experience, I cannot justify it.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Most of my welding is with a 220 amp Hobart and I never had any failures.
6013 is my 'go to' rod.

I like E6013 too esp on new steel. Every mig wire has a higher tensile and is more ductile than the stick rod you will use. It is stronger than mild steel and most are as ductile. (In practical terms, everything you weld is designed with a safety margin and 10000 values difference off some chart will not matter much.)


Not long ago I sprung for a cheap wire welder for very thin materials.
Works so-so but sure splatters a lot.
Is that the norm? or is it the wire they provided.
Also I find the wire feeds out much too fast, that or I am too slow.
Some of the things to leave off when you build a cheap welder: full wave rectification, huge capacitor bank to smooth ripple, a stabilizer (hunk of iron with copper wire wrapped around it)

I had developed a technique with the Hobart whereby I'd sort of do small 'spot welds' on thin stock but more often than not burn thru every 5th or so 'spot'.
That is what prompted me to try the wire machine.
LOL also discovered not to weld close to dinner time as the circuits seem loaded.

Body shops do the same thing with wire machines on too thin panels.

A very large part of a good strong weld is preparation and fit up. Good penetration is not based solely on size/power of the welder.
Just like owning a sub compact tractor doesn't limit you to only cutting grass.
Yes. More power makes things easier and faster but not necessarily better.

I just like this quote and wanted to read it again.

Find a brick and mortar local welding supply you like. Find a knowledgeable local to buddy with and learn by doing with the good stuff. Just say no to Amazon and Harbor Freight.

Your "weak welds" comment is another way of saying "too small, crappy welder gives inadequate penetration." Buy a name brand quality machine of sufficient size. They're easier to learn with and parts and consumables are readily available.

Quoting is easier than repeating .

No, it was a way of saying it looks good but the operator did not have enough experience to make a good weld with penetration and did not check the penetration. From my readings the only way to really check the penetration is to cut through the weld or beat the snot out of it.

I've seen many pics of pretty mig welds on here and elsewhere that were a little better than hot glue. And I'm sure one could make a pretty MIG weld with a $2,000 machine and not get penetration.

I am not a CWI but part of knowing what looks good is checking for joint prep, checking back side for penetration, checkinG bead appearance to estimate amperage appropriate for material thickness. X-rays and bend tests are not required.

Tough to do any of the above on the internet.

 

[jaxs]

At first glance,a lot of the opinions posted seem contradictory but in reality most aren't. I'm fairly new to welding and here's my take so far. Buy a name brand machine,buy 240 volt or dual 120/240,get the most amps you can afford but at least 175. You can't buy parts for HF and other low end machines. While it's true good looking mig welds can be weak,mig can make as strong of welds as stick. Try breaking pratice welds if there's any doubt. Newbies will do themselves a favor starting off with flat & horizonal wire rather than the popular all position wires. After getting comfortable doing flat & horiz,go with all position if you occasionally need to do vert or overhead. Rather than striving for stack-o-dime appearance,try eliminating worm holes, inclusions,undercut,lack of penetration and burn through. I have been happy with my Lincoln Pro-Mig 180 doing body panels,pipe H fence braces and in between.

 

[IchabodCrayne]

Maybe welders at Kubota and Land Pride should read this thread. There are welds on my tractor and my box blade that wouldn't have passed in my back yard let alone a factory.