Loader Torqued loader torque tube

[4570Man]

I wouldnt disconnect and chain one side to loader.

Rather I would just swap hoses on one curl cylinder.

Make one push as the other pulls.

If that dont work, maybe try that + a little heat

I’d probably move it to the center of the stroke before a swapped it. I think it would have a better chance of working that way.

 

[LD1]

I’d probably move it to the center of the stroke before a swapped it. I think it would have a better chance of working that way.

Yep.

With the pads about 90 degrees from the loader arms is gonna be about best.

 

[PhysAssist]

Take a handheld band saw cut the tube in the center, square both ends back up correctly. Tack weld the tube back together and find some heavy wall tube that fits snug into the original tube, drill a few holes in the original tube on each side of the cut then slide the new inner piece into the tube evenly on both sides of the cut. Plug weld the new tube in the holes you drilled and then finish welding around the old tube.

Hi,
I'm just curious as to why you suggested putting the patch [tube] on the inside instead of on the outside, where in addition to the plug welds, you would have circumference welds on each end, instead of just one in the middle.

Is it a strength issue or something else?

 

[SPYDERLK]

I wouldnt disconnect and chain one side to loader.

Rather I would just swap hoses on one curl cylinder.

Make one push as the other pulls.

If that dont work, maybe try that + a little heat

Due different working areas you will be limited to the force available on the pull side. I dont think that will be enough.

I think the left cyl will have to be disabled and its ram pin removed. [Remove supply lines and cap them.] Then securely chain that pad and extend the other side.​

If that isnt enough augment by adding rotational force with mechanical leverage. ... ~ Hang a weight on a prybar.​

 

[Ritothebull]

I have spent a lot of time straightening out bent equipment and have found that most of the time just cutting and re-welding is usually the easiest way to go, and you will get it right the first time. For some unknown reason it's a lot easier to bend something than to unbend it.

 

[dfkrug]

I have spent a lot of time straightening out bent equipment and have found that most of the time just cutting and re-welding is usually the easiest way to go, and you will get it right the first time. For some unknown reason it's a lot easier to bend something than to unbend it.

That is my experience, too: FEL buckets, rolled-over ATV frames, etc.

As for the cross-tube of an FEL bkt QA bracket, I would cut the cross-tube off entirely and
weld in a new cross-tube (after aligning everything), and that way everything looks nice.

 

[LD1]

I agree.

I too have spent many hours trying to straighten something....and still being unhappy with the results. And in the end....just cut it apart and redo it it

 

[4570Man]

I agree.

I too have spent many hours trying to straighten something....and still being unhappy with the results. And in the end....just cut it apart and redo it it

Also agree but I spent 5 minutes straightening my bent toque tube. It’s probably not more than an hour job to cut and re weld so I wouldn’t waste much time trying to straighten.

 

[carlhwv]

On a loader this size with a 72” bucket I’m thinking the entire assembly, structurally, is really nothing more that a mount point, and the most important thing is to have them mount squared up. The more I think about it trying to heat and bend might be a pain. Cutting and aligning the mounts square is about as easy as I can see so far.

 

[RLstangs]

Put the side that is out the farthest up to a tree, hold the brakes on the tractor and slowly use the bucket hydraulics to bend the torque tube until they are even. Do a little at a time. Have done it on loaders with shaft for a torque tube.