Building our land leveler

[BMan2005]

Welds look good, I could never quite get the hang of stick welding although that is what I learned on
Looking forward to seeing the finished project as I may "need" one of these in the near future.

My grinder still gets a work out at times. Lol

 

[FredH]

Couple of pictures of one I built a few years ago . Blades are just 1/2" flat steel by 6" wide . The blades have slots were they are bolted to the angle steel for mounting . I can raise one side up above the steel runner by at least 1/2" while at the same time drop the opposite side down by 1" or more , ( Never really measured it or have I set it that way , just when I have loosened all the bolts , I have noticed how much adjustment potential there is ) .


Use it to grade the 3/4" - 1.5" shale on our 800' of driveway .half the driveway is flat , then the remaining half goes up to a maximum of 14% . It works since it keeps the wash boarding down to a minimum , at least until everyone from my better half to son to neighbors fly up and down it for weeks and the wash boarding starts again . :confused2:


Actually thinking of removing the blade from the back angle , cutting the angle off and re-welding it on so the blade will have a forward tilt rather than the current back tilt . Thinking that maybe the first blade will level , then the back blade will level and compress shale back down . Well at least that is the plan anyway :thumbsup:

Pull it behind a TC30 and as you can see it is wider than the tractor . 7' wide by 8' + long . Blade height will influence how well a tractor of a given size will pull it . If I had 12" blades , Ugh , not sure my TC 30 would handle it .

Looks like You are getting there :thumbsup:

Fred H.

 

[BMan2005]

Had to unload it and flip it to get a few structural welds I couldn't get to comfortably underneath.

 

[airbiscuit]

.....Actually thinking of removing the blade from the back angle , cutting the angle off and re-welding it on so the blade will have a forward tilt rather than the current back tilt . Thinking that maybe the first blade will level , then the back blade will level and compress shale back down . Well at least that is the plan anyway :thumbsup:

You could weld or bolt in a 3" or 4" pipe across the back to smooth/compress.

 

[CADplans]

Had to unload it and flip it to get a few structural welds I couldn't get to comfortably underneath.

View attachment 567362

Hmmmmmmm,,,,,, that pic looks familiar,,,

LOL,, :laughing:

:thumbsup:

 

[BMan2005]

View attachment 567359 View attachment 567360

Couple of pictures of one I built a few years ago . Blades are just 1/2" flat steel by 6" wide . The blades have slots were they are bolted to the angle steel for mounting . I can raise one side up above the steel runner by at least 1/2" while at the same time drop the opposite side down by 1" or more , ( Never really measured it or have I set it that way , just when I have loosened all the bolts , I have noticed how much adjustment potential there is ) .


Use it to grade the 3/4" - 1.5" shale on our 800' of driveway .half the driveway is flat , then the remaining half goes up to a maximum of 14% . It works since it keeps the wash boarding down to a minimum , at least until everyone from my better half to son to neighbors fly up and down it for weeks and the wash boarding starts again . :confused2:


Actually thinking of removing the blade from the back angle , cutting the angle off and re-welding it on so the blade will have a forward tilt rather than the current back tilt . Thinking that maybe the first blade will level , then the back blade will level and compress shale back down . Well at least that is the plan anyway :thumbsup:

Pull it behind a TC30 and as you can see it is wider than the tractor . 7' wide by 8' + long . Blade height will influence how well a tractor of a given size will pull it . If I had 12" blades , Ugh , not sure my TC 30 would handle it .

Looks like You are getting there :thumbsup:

Fred H.

How deep do you generally run your blades to resurface the shell that compacted?

My blades will be fixed, may regret it later but I decided to go with simplicity and quicker design.

I was thinking to set the front blade 1" cut but now I'm thinking more like .5 - .75" cut. I have 6.5" skids to it will not dig in much.

Hmmmmmmm,,,,,, that pic looks familiar,,,

LOL,, :laughing:

:thumbsup:

Yeah it's tricky figuring out how to flip it easy being so wide right!? Lol

 

[BMan2005]

Made the cut out slots in the skids to bolt the blades in. I called it quits for the day. All welding is finished though!

 

[FredH]

Usually I only need 1/2" on one side then it tapers to 0" on other side . Back blade is then set just the opposite . The lead edge of each blade is set deep , then tapers up to other side . For me , the idea is to move rock one way , then back the other way . Now does it actually work that way ? Don't know for sure , based upon the rock build up at each blade , seems to , but in the end , the driveway is level without wash boarding .:thumbsup:


Fred H.

 

[BukitCase]

Are you gonna slice a "pie wedge" out of the runners and bend them up, then re-weld? ... Steve

Kinda like this...

 

[BMan2005]

Are you gonna slice a "pie wedge" out of the runners and bend them up, then re-weld? ... Steve

Kinda like this... View attachment 567473

Yes sir, that's the last thing I have left before prepping for paint. So I guess I'm not done welding yet.