Hydrauluc top & tilt kit

[dwalk19]

Best place to buy hydraulic top link & side link, and whats best way to determine what length will need, going on 40hp LS xg3140,, thanks

 

[lostcreekranch]

Hydrauluc top & tilt kit

Try Fit-Rite Hydraulics. Brian can advise what size and length cylinders you need for your specific tractor.

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

I’ve bought 3 sets from him and still very pleased.

 

[Fallon]

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com is on here as MtnViewRanch & is likely to comment here at some point. Quality product he stands behind. But he does have a hefty wait list & they aren't the cheapest option.

My first set ran off with the old tractor. 2nd set took a long time to get here, after the dealer (non-FitRite) had 3 failures that leaked massively & didnt fit Had a pinhole show up in 1 cylinder after a year. Warranty replacement showed up in a week or so. I'll deal with the wait from FitRite if I ever need another set.

 

[dwalk19]

Yes i've heard good things about fite rite, but i have some upcoming projects i'd really like to have them for sooner rather than later

 

[John_Mc]

Best way to determine length is to look at the adjustment range on what you have now, and asses whether that range is working for you.

 

[dwalk19]

That's what i assumed, fully extended and fully retracted and whatever comes close i suppose

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That's what i assumed, fully extended and fully retracted and whatever comes close i suppose

Ideally you need a 7" stroke unit for your top link or a 9" stroke if you are using Pat's QH. You won't find either one anywhere except from me. Probably an 8" stroke off the shelf unit is going to be the closest that you will find. Look at this link, get the asked for dimension and then go searching for something that comes close to that measurement for your mid stroke.

Side link needs a 4" stroke unit. Measure the left side (stationary link) and built to that if you are going to build one yourself.

My current lead times are running 16-18 weeks.

Picture shows a 2 1/2" set for a Pat's system. 2" cylinders are really all you need though.

Good luck with your search.

 

[mbu]

Best place to buy hydraulic top link & side link, and whats best way to determine what length will need, going on 40hp LS xg3140,, thanks

Maybe this site will have what you need. They offer both top and side links...

Hydraulic Side Links | AGRISTORE USA

 

[dwalk19]

What size hoses would they require, does it matter if they are 1/2" or 3/8",

 

[ovrszd]

I prefer 3/8 as they conform to the limited space easier.

 

[Fallon]

FitRite has restrictors in most of his TnT kits. Holes are the size of pencil lead in the fittings going into the cylinders on each side. Makes things slower & much easier to control precisely. Based on that hose size really doesnt matter between the TnT cylinders & QDs. Smaller is probably actually better due to the better flexibility & possibly reduced flow.

 

[oosik]

Brian @ Fit Rite Hydraulics. He advised - I bought - I've been more than pleased with the purchase. Kick my butt for not buying Fit Rite when I first bought the M6040 in 2009. Had the hydraulic top link for five years now.

 

[calpalmer]

Brian, I telephoned but missed you. I have the new top n tilt from you which looks 1st rate quality, and look forward to installing it this weekend on our M7060HDC. The tractor has two self-cancelling detent remote valves and 1 float rv. I'm wondering the difference in functionality with including vs excluding the float from the TnT set-up. Most of my application currently will be a large box blade and a landscape rake. I'm confused ... Did I make a mistake in ordering the valves, should 2 have been floats? I had the dealer install them. Thanks ahead of time,
Cal

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, I telephoned but missed you. I have the new top n tilt from you which looks 1st rate quality, and look forward to installing it this weekend on our M7060HDC. The tractor has two self-cancelling detent remote valves and 1 float rv. I'm wondering the difference in functionality with including vs excluding the float from the TnT set-up. Most of my application currently will be a large box blade and a landscape rake. I'm confused ... Did I make a mistake in ordering the valves, should 2 have been floats? I had the dealer install them. Thanks ahead of time,
Cal

You never (that I can think of) would ever need the float feature with both the top link and side link at the same time. Typically the top link float feature would be used when using a 3pt mower when mowing steep angles, more than what the mowers hitch allows for. The side link float feature would be used when you want free up-down movement on either side of any ground working implement.

Did you make a mistake with the valves that you have? I typically recommend both top & tilt valves have the float feature, but you can get by with just a single float feature if need be. If the dealer will exchange them, I would.

 

[calpalmer]

That makes sense, Brian, thanks! I'll discuss with the dealer, but my guess is it will be several $00 to switch out. If so, I'll leave it as is to be changed in future if/when an implement will benefit -- I currently don't yet have my mower because I don't as yet have grass! That's next spring after we get all the limbs and debris collected and the ground smoothed up a lot . . .

 

[ovrszd]

Brian, I telephoned but missed you. I have the new top n tilt from you which looks 1st rate quality, and look forward to installing it this weekend on our M7060HDC. The tractor has two self-cancelling detent remote valves and 1 float rv. I'm wondering the difference in functionality with including vs excluding the float from the TnT set-up. Most of my application currently will be a large box blade and a landscape rake. I'm confused ... Did I make a mistake in ordering the valves, should 2 have been floats? I had the dealer install them. Thanks ahead of time,
Cal

My M9540 has one SCV and two floats. I can't get good movement control with the SCV. It's not principally designed for that feature. I use the two float valves for my TnT.

 

[John_Mc]

I'm curious: is no one using double piloted check valves on their cylinders anymore? I did not know about those when I set up my TnT system years ago. I've regretted it ever since, since the leakdown on my system can be a pain in the but in some situations.

 

[ptsg]

I'm curious: is no one using double piloted check valves on their cylinders anymore? I did not know about those when I set up my TnT system years ago. I've regretted it ever since, since the leakdown on my system can be a pain in the but in some situations.

It's not used much because it will completely disable the float function. Which is still a nice function to have on the top link.

 

[Fallon]

I'm curious: is no one using double piloted check valves on their cylinders anymore? I did not know about those when I set up my TnT system years ago. I've regretted it ever since, since the leakdown on my system can be a pain in the but in some situations.

I regret not getting them because Kubota valves suck. I'm on my 6th or 7th valve for my rear 3 valves. The toplink valve is pretty decent finally, but the sidelink has always dropped pretty quick. Worst was 45 minutes or so. It's a little over an hour on the current valve. I've kind of given up on getting a decent valve from Kubota at this point. Under warranty, but the pain of getting it into the dealer even when they are transporting the machine in for free is just to much at this point. Really disappoint in Kubota on this.

Might look into getting some double piloted valves to lock the sidelink down & get around the crap Kubota valves. I'd loose float, but dont use it much on the sidelink. I use it a **** of a lot on the toplink though.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I regret not getting them because Kubota valves suck. I'm on my 6th or 7th valve for my rear 3 valves. The toplink valve is pretty decent finally, but the sidelink has always dropped pretty quick. Worst was 45 minutes or so. It's a little over an hour on the current valve. I've kind of given up on getting a decent valve from Kubota at this point. Under warranty, but the pain of getting it into the dealer even when they are transporting the machine in for free is just to much at this point. Really disappoint in Kubota on this.

Might look into getting some double piloted valves to lock the sidelink down & get around the crap Kubota valves. I'd loose float, but dont use it much on the sidelink. I use it a **** of a lot on the toplink though.

I've been working on this and now have 2 different solutions for the leak down issues.

If you feel that you can get by without the float feature, then install a DPOCV. This requires custom banjo bolts to work on Fit Rite cylinders. $120 shipped to you.

Or if you feel that you would like to keep the float feature capability, then an electric on-off valve can be installed at the tractor rod end coupler with a control grip for the control lever to actuate the on-off valve. Still need to put final pricing together, but looking like $300 + or -.