Gas cans - really

   / Gas cans - really #161  
Nope! Not mine. You must continually hold the 'fill' button down on the spigot to empty. As soon at you let go, it shuts off. No Spill... and has nothing to do with adding a vent. No vent means the air has to come through the fill spigot to replenish the emptied volume thus slowing down the rate of pour. An auxiliary vent solves that problem.

The No Spill has several attractive features,

1) as mentioned, when you release the go button, it stops flowing and,
2) shuts off automatically if fuel backs up to nozzle, which is defeated if you add a vent. This prevents fuel spilling out from overfilling. You have to have nozzle down in tank opening before it works. So if you are not sure you will release the go button quick enough when you have more fuel in can than tank can hold, don't put a vent in.

I might add a vent (because I am going to update some old fuel containers when I put the ezpour spout on and vents on those).
 
   / Gas cans - really #162  
You're describing the manual shut-off. The No-Spill cans will automatically stop flowing when the tank level has reached the No-Spill nozzle, even with the button pressed. Dale is saying your auxiliary vent breaks the auto shut-off feature.

Gotcha. That hadn’t been my concern. I watch the fuel level and let go when needed. The fact that flows twice as fast is what I appreciate.
 
   / Gas cans - really #163  
I have a diesel mower (JD 455) and a diesel tractor (JD 4320). This is the best way I have found to fill up the tractor and mower. IMG_1547.JPG

I just drive 1/3 mile down the road and fill up at the gas station lmao, I have a diesel can but that’s for the cattle, not tractors.
 
   / Gas cans - really #164  
Hi Piloon, Will you please post a link to your newly found pump set-up? That sounds interesting to me and I'd like to check it out. Thanks, Greg

Well over the years I tried many solutions with a small hand crank pump winning for a while.
Last winter I found a small 12VDC powered pump that fitted into my 5 gal fuel can that came compete with an inline switch and debris screen, all that for about $10.00 on a web site.
Not super fast but just nice for my CUT.
And no more scratched hood or sore shoulders and better still no spills.
One nice feature is that the hose self drains back into the fuel can so no spills.

The warning label says "for fuel only", not for gasoline, makes sense as the little brushed motor actually sits in the fuel as it drives a small impellor to push the fuel uphill.
They ship without a fuel hose but that is easily found locally. Takes 5/8" hose and I found coolant hose* to be the best as poly hardens when exposed to fuel.

* coolant hose is designed for engine compartments that are subject to oils, heat and fuel spillage that made sense to me.
I found silicone based coolant hose to be the best and most supple to use.
Neat advantage is 5/8 hose neatly fits 1/2" copper pipe for splicing or fitting a nozzle etc. (I made a nozzle using pipe bits and a 90 deg fitting)
 
   / Gas cans - really #165  
   / Gas cans - really #166  
   / Gas cans - really #167  
A metal tire valve stem works great for a vent. You just have to remove the valve core.
 
   / Gas cans - really #168  
One of the features of a No-Spill can is that the fuel flow stops shortly after the fuel level reaches the spout, stopping more air from going into the can. This lowers the chance of overflow. A vent will de-activate this feature.

Bruce
I suppose if you need to rely on this feature for some tank refills, you can just not activate the vent!
 
   / Gas cans - really #171  
A metal tire valve stem works great for a vent. You just have to remove the valve core.

Cool idea, how do you get it installed seeing I assume you need to install it from the inside. Or maybe I don't get how these work.
You guys are losing me. We are talking about an install in a plastic jug. One drilled hole and a snap on (from the outside) plastic vent is easy peasy.... oh and it works with a flip of the finger. Removing the valve core? :punch: :stirthepot: :banghead:
 
   / Gas cans - really #172  
- You drill a hole in the back top of the plastic can.
- You put the tire valve core installation cable into the hole, fish it out of the gas can filler.
Doesn't everyone have one of these tools? :confused3:
3330AE57-6203-4869-82FE-F3584D9A946C.jpeg
- Screw the new valve stem onto the core installation tool and pull it through the filler and out the new hole that you drilled.
- It snaps and seals into place, just as it would on a tire rim.
- You remove the core valve with the slot on the valve cap, no tools needed.
(you all know that the little slots on the top of the cap are a valve stem removal wrench, right?)
A53EFA8F-FDE2-4D89-9040-F3904EA768F2.jpeg
- Now you have a screw cap that you can remove for a vent.... until you drop it! :laughing:

Yes, the little plastic yellow snap in cap is much easier and you won't lose the cap. I agree. But this is much more complicated, costs more, and looks much cooler. :thumbsup:
 
   / Gas cans - really #173  
I put one on my 3 gallon sprayer cause I got tired of pumpmping it up. Drill the hole where you want it. I fished some multi strand wire into the hole and out the fill opening. Remove the valve core , thread it on the wire and tie a knot so it can稚 be pulled through the stem. Pull the wire and valve stem out the hole. Little silicone or dish soap helps.
 
   / Gas cans - really #174  
Not really my idea, I saw some you tube videos of using a valve stem as a vent I just wanted something that would not leak.

I drilled a hole and fished in through the pour opening and then threaded it down tight.
 
   / Gas cans - really #175  
I'm gonna keep it in mind if I every have to get a different gas can. I currently have three 20+ year old plastic 6 gallon Blitz cans that work perfectly. And two 2 gallon cans. And one 1 gallon can.
 
   / Gas cans - really #176  
Cool idea, how do you get it installed seeing I assume you need to install it from the inside. Or maybe I don't get how these work.

they make push in ones with an installer 'tube'
 
   / Gas cans - really #177  
The lawsuits happen because US citizens tolerate (and SUPPORT) our judicial system being used for high-level enrichment. It can be stopped, just take the personal enrichment out of it.

Then we blame "the government" instead of blaming who's in the mirror, ensuring that it will NEVER change. Crazy is not really the right word, perhaps foolish, or gullible is more apt.

Very true. A good post explaining exactly why we have one h e l l u v a lot of rules and regulations. Dumb stupid people not willing or wanting to accept personal accountability or responsibility. It is always someone else's fault.
 
   / Gas cans - really #178  
- You drill a hole in the back top of the plastic can.
- You put the tire valve core installation cable into the hole, fish it out of the gas can filler.
Doesn't everyone have one of these tools? :confused3:
View attachment 568727
- Screw the new valve stem onto the core installation tool and pull it through the filler and out the new hole that you drilled.
- It snaps and seals into place, just as it would on a tire rim.
- You remove the core valve with the slot on the valve cap, no tools needed.
(you all know that the little slots on the top of the cap are a valve stem removal wrench, right?)
View attachment 568728
- Now you have a screw cap that you can remove for a vent.... until you drop it! :laughing:

Yes, the little plastic yellow snap in cap is much easier and you won't lose the cap. I agree. But this is much more complicated, costs more, and looks much cooler. :thumbsup:

I'm gonna keep it in mind if I every have to get a different gas can. I currently have three 20+ year old plastic 6 gallon Blitz cans that work perfectly. And two 2 gallon cans. And one 1 gallon can.
So did you install metal valve stems in them yet to impress your friends and neighbors how "cool" you are? :confused3:

And no, I don't have one of those tools. I rarely purchase anything I don't have a use for. ;)
 
   / Gas cans - really #180  
Ha ha, I do not have one of those tools either. Fishing through with a wire makes sense, I forgot you could remove the guts so that the wire could go through it.
 

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