48x39x14 shop build

[ovrszd]

I forgot to mention the build method.

2x6 studs sitting on 2x6 treated sill plate. 2ft centers. Double header plate. 2x12 double headers over each window and door. Studs doubled or tripled wherever a bottom or top sill plate splice. Foam sealer between sill plate and concrete. Anchor bolts are drilled and inserted 6" into concrete. 21 total. Bottom purlin on outside is 2x6 treated. Purlin where wainscoat splices is 2x6. Remaining are 2x4. Haven't measured exactly so I'm guessing 30" apart. I can verify that if anyone wants to know exactly. Four 2x6 framing overhead door sides. Double 2x6 framing window and walk in door sides. I'll include a pic of how the overhead doors are framed at the concrete.

 

[EddieWalker]

Exactly, and there is no thermal break correct? The 6” of outside slab is the same concrete through into the floor slab?

I have seen somewhere that a thermal break is suppose to be at the door seal, so that heat isn’t going outside.

If I understand your question, you are asking if the interior concrete extends out to the exterior in one big monolithic slab? My understanding is that concrete expands and contracts according to the temperature around it. If the inside temps are different then the outside temps, like most houses, the concrete needs to be poured separately. Here in Texas, we always pour the porches the next day or so after the slab because of this.

My thinking is that a barn, or workshop, is similar to a house, just not as big a difference in temperature since most houses are kept around 72 to 75 degrees, and I would think that work shop would be quite a bit warmer, but not as warm as the outdoors.

I think the term "thermal break" refers to the exterior walls of the building, and the slab being different then the porch, or other exterior concrete.

 

[ovrszd]

If I understand your question, you are asking if the interior concrete extends out to the exterior in one big monolithic slab? My understanding is that concrete expands and contracts according to the temperature around it. If the inside temps are different then the outside temps, like most houses, the concrete needs to be poured separately. Here in Texas, we always pour the porches the next day or so after the slab because of this.

My thinking is that a barn, or workshop, is similar to a house, just not as big a difference in temperature since most houses are kept around 72 to 75 degrees, and I would think that work shop would be quite a bit warmer, but not as warm as the outdoors.

I think the term "thermal break" refers to the exterior walls of the building, and the slab being different then the porch, or other exterior concrete.

Thanks for the help on that one Eddie. I totally missed the question originally.

 

[ovrszd]

With radiant heat in the slab itself, the part of the concrete on the exterior will losing considerable amounts of heat to the environment. Because of this, the slab containing the radiant heat should be separated from any exterior concrete via thermal break. Now in this scenario we are only talking 6" spanning two door openings, but it will still result in substantial heat loss. If a door apron is poured, it should absolutely be separated via a thermal break.

Oh we totally get the necessity of a break between the building slab and any exterior pours.

Personally I thought the question was concerning separation of the doorway concrete. I couldn't envision any way to do that.

Thanks for your clarity.

Our house build will have a 54x8ft porch floor. Will be poured separately with a blandex gap between it and the house pad.

 

[Jcoon]

I'm on my laptop now and easier to type so I'll discuss this further.

Wasn't sure by your questions what information you were looking for.

I've never heard of a thermal break at the door seal. I'd be very interested to see that information. Curious how they did it???

There is considerable debate about how far from the outside edge of the concrete to run the heat pipe. Friend of mine loses considerable heat to the outside. Enough to keep the grass green a few inches out from his building thru Winter. Not positive how far from the edge of the concrete his piping is.

Have heard considerable condemnation of that fact. But no resolution offered.

If you are planning hydronic radiant floor heat in your build, the same rules in regards to piping will apply as any other building. Monolithic doesn't change any of that.

I digress. When you saw this discussion about thermal break, how did they do it??? You have a gap in the concrete? Or an insulating product separating the concrete? Wouldn't that be very user unfriendly? Very curious about this. Thanks for anything you can offer.

It was in a YouTube video, that I cannot find! Lol

It’s a lot simpler to do with a foundation like yours with footer walls, you insulated the inside of the walls, and then insulated under your slab, pocketing the radiant floor slab, when the insulation board comes vertical up the sides of your footer walls, at the top of slab grade you cut a 45 degree end on the insulation board, so that the concrete goes to the footer wall, but for the most part has a thermal brake, this same thing happens at the door seal, because your slab would end right under the door seal, I’ve also seen then use C channel or something similar, to cap the insulation board, and that metal meets the door seal, but with my monolithic I would have to form the whole thing around the garage doors, because my radiant slab will go to the outside of my walls, so I have been looking into flush mount garage doors, so that the door seal will fall on the outside of the slab.

 

[ovrszd]

I will admit some heat loss will occur. I would not put integrity of my concrete at risk to eliminate that loss.

 

[Jcoon]

That and I’m sure it doesn’t get that cold in Missouri?

I can see -20 for a week straight at night time.

 

[ovrszd]

That and I’m sure it doesn’t get that cold in Missouri?

I can see -20 for a week straight at night time.

I don't recall -20F in the past decade. If we go below zero we don't stay there very long. 30" frost is comsidered deep. We've been in extreme drought most of the Summer so may see deeper frost this Winter if we dom't rebound.

 

[TSO]

Looking great Richard! 2x6 stick built on a footing is exactly how I did my barn addition as well. Coming along nicely

 

[Jcoon]

I don't recall -20F in the past decade. If we go below zero we don't stay there very long. 30" frost is comsidered deep. We've been in extreme drought most of the Summer so may see deeper frost this Winter if we dom't rebound.

Lol we are 42” frost line, depending on soil conditions. The severe cold is why I am so concerned with my heat loss.