4570Man - Thanks for the reply. I guess my ignorance doesn't know where the line is drawn between GOOD or not good. I have a tendency to lean toward second hand and am not sure what good examples of where the 'high end' models start. In my reading it sounds like a diff lock would be greatly helpful. Also - sounds like you're a fan of the old straight wall cartridge?
Buying Advice Need to find the right equipment to mow a steep grade
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4570Man - Thanks for the reply. I guess my ignorance doesn't know where the line is drawn between GOOD or not good. I have a tendency to lean toward second hand and am not sure what good examples of where the 'high end' models start. In my reading it sounds like a diff lock would be greatly helpful. Also - sounds like you're a fan of the old straight wall cartridge?
MossRoad
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Welcome to TBN! :thumbsup:
First, forget about % slope. That's only important for truckers and trains. Stick with degrees. It makes things less complicated because so many people mix the two terms up. Anyone can visualize a slope in degrees. 0 is flat, 90 is straight up. 45 in the middle. 22.5 the middle of that, etc... % slope? Not so much!
One thing about Power Trac's (and Ventracs, Steiners, too, )is people will tell you they are expensive mowers. Well, yeah, if all you're gonna do is mow. The same thing can be said of any traditional tractor if all you're gonna do is mow with it.
What other tasks do you want to accomplish besides mowing?
First, forget about % slope. That's only important for truckers and trains. Stick with degrees. It makes things less complicated because so many people mix the two terms up. Anyone can visualize a slope in degrees. 0 is flat, 90 is straight up. 45 in the middle. 22.5 the middle of that, etc... % slope? Not so much!
One thing about Power Trac's (and Ventracs, Steiners, too, )is people will tell you they are expensive mowers. Well, yeah, if all you're gonna do is mow.
The same thing can be said of any traditional tractor if all you're gonna do is mow with it. What other tasks do you want to accomplish besides mowing?
Coyote machine
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Wouldn't do it. The combi 103 mulching deck is the best deck for the machine, and renders a decent cut for cost of mower.
The Pro-Z is the cat's azz for the price range. Or you can spend $25K or more for a Ventrac or similar!
Slowpoke Slim
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OP, this will be a long ramble, but maybe it will make sense at the end.
I mow up to 20 degree slope with my CUT. It's heavy, and rears are filled (over 7k pounds with mower on). Mowing with a 6ft brush hog on back. 20 degrees is about all I want, and the pucker factor is right up there, at least for me. The worst slope area, I will mow vertically, as in not trying to side hill that spot, which with it's variations in hillside, has a few spots that go over 22 degrees. Unfortunately, that spot, is right above a rather large concrete culvert, that if I were to lose traction there, would be about a 6-8' vertical drop to the bottom of the concrete culvert.
With my CUT in 4x4, low range, and rear diff lock engaged, I can pull vertically up the sides of the culvert (steepest part of my hill is right around this culvert), mowing upwards as I go. Then I either drive around the slope and make another pass the same way, or for the slightly lessor angles, I'll back back down that slope again to pull up another pass.
Doing it this way "works", but I'm not a fan. The ground has to be bone-dry. No dew on the grass, and no moisture on the slope. If we weren't moving to a new location in the very near future, I'd probably look at some other method to mow this slope area. I do want to keep it mowed, as it's right along a very busy local road (county hwy), and the local brain dead's are constantly tossing garbage and cigarette butts from their cars, and I worry about grass fires in the summer dry seasons, which up here, can get very dangerous, very quickly.
If I could just let it go and NOT mow it at all, I probably would. The CUT does work, but it is a bit gut-wrenching in a few spots (like backing down over the culvert at 22 degrees, and staring out the back window at the bottom of that culvert, LOL!). The "nasty" parts of my slopes are maybe a couple hundred feet long. The rest is low angle enough to not really be any concern.
If you only have one small spot that the slope makes a 19 degree max angle, I think a SCUT or CUT with 4x4, diff lock and filled tires would work, even if you have to vertically climb the worst part of it. It won't be "great", but it works. If you have a long section of slope that goes 20 degrees plus, then maybe you will have to bite the bullet and go specialty mower.
I mow up to 20 degree slope with my CUT. It's heavy, and rears are filled (over 7k pounds with mower on). Mowing with a 6ft brush hog on back. 20 degrees is about all I want, and the pucker factor is right up there, at least for me. The worst slope area, I will mow vertically, as in not trying to side hill that spot, which with it's variations in hillside, has a few spots that go over 22 degrees. Unfortunately, that spot, is right above a rather large concrete culvert, that if I were to lose traction there, would be about a 6-8' vertical drop to the bottom of the concrete culvert.
With my CUT in 4x4, low range, and rear diff lock engaged, I can pull vertically up the sides of the culvert (steepest part of my hill is right around this culvert), mowing upwards as I go. Then I either drive around the slope and make another pass the same way, or for the slightly lessor angles, I'll back back down that slope again to pull up another pass.
Doing it this way "works", but I'm not a fan. The ground has to be bone-dry. No dew on the grass, and no moisture on the slope. If we weren't moving to a new location in the very near future, I'd probably look at some other method to mow this slope area. I do want to keep it mowed, as it's right along a very busy local road (county hwy), and the local brain dead's are constantly tossing garbage and cigarette butts from their cars, and I worry about grass fires in the summer dry seasons, which up here, can get very dangerous, very quickly.
If I could just let it go and NOT mow it at all, I probably would. The CUT does work, but it is a bit gut-wrenching in a few spots (like backing down over the culvert at 22 degrees, and staring out the back window at the bottom of that culvert, LOL!). The "nasty" parts of my slopes are maybe a couple hundred feet long. The rest is low angle enough to not really be any concern.
If you only have one small spot that the slope makes a 19 degree max angle, I think a SCUT or CUT with 4x4, diff lock and filled tires would work, even if you have to vertically climb the worst part of it. It won't be "great", but it works. If you have a long section of slope that goes 20 degrees plus, then maybe you will have to bite the bullet and go specialty mower.
sandman2234
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A used Steiner with dual wheel option for traction and stability would be my choice, but only if you are a reasonably good mechanic. Taking it to the shop every time it needs something isn't going to help your budget. There are others on this forum that will disagree with me, but I think I would pass on the Power Trac. Too many times have I heard of wheel motor issues and other problems that keep the owners busy hauling them to a shop or on the phone with Power Trac. Cost is less for one, but I doubt you are going to have good luck unless they have done serious changes.
David from jax
David from jax
MossRoad
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
How large of an area are you talking about here?
ruffdog
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Check the ads for a used 4x4 Deere X7** series like a x728(gas), or x748/x749(diesel) garden tractors. The belly mowers go up to 62" and add weight right where you want it, low and in the middle. My dad has the x749 and mows areas way more than 19deg.
It's really a small area, but it's ALL hill. About 120'x150' maybe the best move is to buy some cleats and a good self propelled push mower.