$100 Hydraulic Top Link

   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #61  
Can you imagine a world where everyone is as helpful as you are? It'd be heavenly.

Curiosity had me look at that 1/2" flow control valve to which you linked. Just a word of caution - it slows flow in only one direction, with free flow in the opposite. So you would need two (one on each hose) to slow both directions. They have a similar flow control (needle valve) that does 15-0 GPM with this item:

1/2 NPT 15 GPM Prince WNV-8�� Needle Valve | Flow Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Good point about the one-directional valves. I don't have them, but think I understand their use on a toplink or top 'n tilt setup. As you note, two are needed, one on the rod-end hose and one on the cylinder-end hose to allow slow speed control in both directions. Their advantage over a single, fixed-orifice restrictor or the single needle valve flow reducer you link to is that they allow the operator to easily fine-tune the orifice size at each end of the cylinder differently. Theoretically in a perfectly designed, closed hydraulic system, including no entrained air and an excellent hydraulic pump, slowing the oil flow going out or coming in at the rod end of the cylinder will equally slow it coming and going at the other end as well. But that's subject to a reported real-world risk that cavitation and induced vacuum in the system can sometimes occur when a very heavy implement forces the cylinder to extend a bit faster than the oil can be replenished at the cylinder-end. From what I've read in discussions on TBN, that cavitation and induced vacuum can cause chatter and jerky movement, and even result in air being pulled past the cylinder and valve seals and into the system.

With fixed-orifice restrictors like I use for my toplink, sidelink, and offset cylinder, that risk of disequilibrium, however small, can possibly be eliminated by using only one restrictor and putting it in the rod-end hose, or if using two restrictors as some folks recommend, having a larger orifice in the restrictor at the cylinder end. That said, I have restrictors that Brian at Fit Rite kindly sent me with identical orifices on both hoses of my toplink and sidelink cylinders, and have never had a problem in three years. For my offset cylinder on my box blade, I use just one restrictor, the 3/8" NPT Swivel Flow Restrictor from TSC, on the rod-end hose.

With the adjustable needle valve flow control, flexibility can be accomplished of course by a second needle valve at the cylinder end. But that valve is more expensive than the unidirectional valve with the same result.

In any event, I think most of us CUT or SCUT owners can get by nicely with just one fixed-orifice or needle valve restrictor on the rod-end hose, leaving the cylinder end unrestricted. That's just my opinion, but I'm no hydraulics expert like Brian and some of the other members here.
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #62  
Thanks to everyone for the advice. The parts arrived and the install was straight forward. There is a restriction orifice built into the link so adding one is unnecessary. The range is great and movement is slow and steady. I attached the parts list below. $181.29 shipped.

View attachment 535055View attachment 535053View attachment 535054

Thanks. Ordered verbatim for my LS XR4140, for the price its worth a shot. Though I would have loved to go with FitRite.

Anyone know what sidelink I need? (Already have the remotes ready)
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #63  
Sidelinks are specific by tractor model. Not gonna find that at a hydraulic supply store.

I built mine.
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #64  
Sidelinks are specific by tractor model. Not gonna find that at a hydraulic supply store.

I built mine.

It never ends :rolleyes: Im in MO, build me one :D
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #65  
It never ends :rolleyes: Im in MO, build me one :D

You are right, it totally never ends. I'd hafta have your tractor onsite or your right link to know how to build it.

If you have a local welding shop they might help you out. You buy the cylinder and take the right link to them for fabrication. Fitrite can build you one if you can stand the wait.
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #66  
Gents,

Any chance of a picture of some sidelinks the way you folks built them? Winter is coming and ya never know but I might need a little tractor project to give me an excuse to stay warm over a welder.
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #67  
Gents,

Any chance of a picture of some sidelinks the way you folks built them? Winter is coming and ya never know but I might need a little tractor project to give me an excuse to stay warm over a welder.

Click on my DIY remotes link in my signature. Post #6 has pics of my top and sidelink
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #68  
Thank you Sir! #7 also has a shot. Not exactly sure what the top of the cyl is connected to on the tractor.
 
   / $100 Hydraulic Top Link #69  
You are right, it totally never ends. I'd hafta have your tractor onsite or your right link to know how to build it.

If you have a local welding shop they might help you out. You buy the cylinder and take the right link to them for fabrication. Fitrite can build you one if you can stand the wait.

I have a welder :thumbsup: Ill check out your post. Was hoping to find something at ag or surplus to modify.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2021 Delta Redirective Crash Cushion 75000 (A51692)
2021 Delta...
2012 MACK GU713 DUMP TRUCK (A51406)
2012 MACK GU713...
2007 Chevrolet Impala Sedan (A51694)
2007 Chevrolet...
Tradewinds Power Unit (A50120)
Tradewinds Power...
1270 (A50490)
1270 (A50490)
NEW Fork Extensions (A53002)
NEW Fork...
 
Top