Not sure why reverse blade lockout would be label on second position, first position would be off, second position "run with lights" and third position would be "run without lights" and of course forth position "start"...
That is way "truth table" on diagram indicates.... In both second and third position there should be power to PTO clutch, by putting tractor in reverse or operator getting off seat it should disconnect power to PTO clutch (stopping mow deck)...
In what position does fuse blow, if only in "lights on" position you have direct short in lighting circuit if it blows in both "on" positions you have some component or switch feeding a direct ground back through ign switch and blowing main fuse.... Only way to find out where culprit is is by disconnecting everything (at switch or relay) and power up with fresh fuse and as you reconnect see which one is the problem (blows fuse)... Trouble shoot that item...
Dale
If his tractor is the same as mine it has a separate switch to control the lights. The second posistion only serves to bypass the safety switch. The new switch is probably causing a short because it wants to send voltage to lights but its going to a safety switch instead.
Not sure why reverse blade lockout would be label on second position, first position would be off, second position "run with lights" and third position would be "run without lights" and of course forth position "start"...
That is way "truth table" on diagram indicates.... In both second and third position there should be power to PTO clutch, by putting tractor in reverse or operator getting off seat it should disconnect power to PTO clutch (stopping mow deck)...
In what position does fuse blow, if only in "lights on" position you have direct short in lighting circuit if it blows in both "on" positions you have some component or switch feeding a direct ground back through ign switch and blowing main fuse.... Only way to find out where culprit is is by disconnecting everything (at switch or relay) and power up with fresh fuse and as you reconnect see which one is the problem (blows fuse)... Trouble shoot that item...
Dale
The new switch is identical by function as the old (most likely being its sort of universal) .... The switch does not care what it energises, what controls how "systems" are energised is what is plugged into switch (wire harness)... If nothing was changed in wire harness then new switch should function same as old...
Dale
If the schematic you show is for the new switch the OP has then it is different internally than the old one. The schematic shows L being 12v pos. for the lights. On my switch L is not 12v pos. Doing so would create a short.
Quite possibly but if he ordered switch by correct part number it should not be a switch problem.... I betting there is a problem with a bad switch (not ign switch) or component or pinched wire causing a direct short in system which is causing fuse to blow....
Also diagram I provided could not be verified as exactly for his mower, but it gives a generalization of how the switch (by part number) can possibly be wired....
Dale