Opinions on my first tractor purchase please(L2501)

[Ellen B]

Hi all! This is my first post here, and I'm new to tractors but having been doing a bunch of research the past few weeks (mostly just reading through this forum and watching YouTube videos). I'm trying to buy my first tractor ASAP, and I'd appreciate any input as to whether what I'm considering is the best machine for my purposes, as well as feedback about the quotes I've received from dealerships so far.

I live in Southern Oregon, and the land has clay soil that dries very hard during the summer. I've got 14 acres, though only about half of it is drivable due to slope. Most of that drivable half is 5-15 degrees, and and only about 1 acre is actually flat or close to it.

My main reasons for getting the tractor are the loader and backhoe, but I'd like to stick with a tractor rather than a small excavator because it can perform other functions as well, and work speed isn't an issue for me. I can't afford two machines, and I'd rather have a less efficient tool for excavating if it can run other attachments as well.

The loader will be used for moving soil, gravel, woodchips, compost and manure bedding, and carrying my heavy cement mixer around by a chain. The backhoe will be used for digging drainage trenches (trying to manage runoff because erosion is a major issue), trenches for running electrical and water around the property, cutting steps into the hillside in various places, and digging a few *small* ponds. I'll probably end up using it at one point as well to do the prep for pouring retaining walls where I'm losing a lot of dirt along a path cut.

The property is primarily somewhat open woodland溶icely spaced Douglas Fir and Incense Cedar with the understory mostly native grass, blackberries, and poison oakthumbdown. I've got a growing herd of goats to manage the brush, and they're already doing great, so I don't foresee using a brush hog. And there's no lawn to mow, either now or in the future.

There's a 7' wide dirt road that makes a loop around the property, and it's about .75 miles total. In the future I'd like to purchase a box blade to use for cleaning this up, as it gets pretty rutted in the winter from driving the Polaris around on it while it's muddy. Not a priority at the moment, but a capability I'd like to have.

I'll be converting a few acres of the gently sloping terrain to pasture for the goats, and while I can overseed by hand and don't need the tractor for that, I'll need to thin some decent size trees in those areas first and would like to use the tractor for moving the logs once I have them cut.

There's a level (and compacted) pad of about .75 acre that I'd like to convert to a large garden, so plowing it up as deep as I can, adding amendments and tilling them in. I plan on doing primarily no-till gardening though, so after the initial soil prep all of the work there will be done by hand, and I'll hopefully be able to find the implements I need for the prep for rent rather than having to purchase them.

We don't get much snow here, and when we do I was planning on using the loader bucket in float to clear the paved (and steep) driveway rather than buying a snow blower that I'll use once a year. I already have a two-person gas powered auger that digs easily in our soil, so I don't plan buying a new auger for the tractor either.

Between not needing to mow/brush hog, and having a limited scope of use for other rotary attachments, I don't feel like I need a high HP tractor, especially as speed isn't much of a concern when I do use the PTO. I would like it to be able to run a rented chipper once a year, though again I'm not worried about speed.

Based on all of this, my local dealer thinks I should go with an L2501. Seems reasonable to me. Since I won't be mowing, it seems more suitable than getting the B2650 as I'd prefer the higher torque of the L model and don't need the mid mount mower. Do you guys think this model is a good choice for my purposes, or should I consider a B series or a larger L?

He quoted me at $27,500 for the HST 4x4 model, with SSQA loader/bucket, and 7.7' backhoe with 12" bucket and mechanical thumb. That's for a cash deal, and the price includes delivery to my property. And there's no sales tax in Oregon Does that sound about right? MSRP on the Kubota site for that same configuration is $30,644. I forgot to ask him about filling the tires as part the deal, but I'm hoping I can get that thrown in as well.

Let me know if this all this sounds right to you, or if I should be considering a different model or need to negotiate the price down further.

Thanks!

Ellen

 

[nybirdman]

The L2501 has been a hot seller for Kubota for a lot of reasons(no emissions the primary).Don't own that particular
tractor but we have two small "L's" in the family;great work horses for sure.It should be capable for your tasks.
I looked at them at our local dealer;liked the size(similar to our old Ford 8N and 9N) but with 4wd and diesel should be way more capable.

 

[BoylermanCT]

Welcome! You definitely want the quick attach on the front loader, so good choice there. If you skip on the mid mount mower, you can get a 3 point finish mower for a lot less than the mid mount. Post pics of what you end up getting. Good luck!

 

[Fallon]

The L2501 should be a good match for traction. It can be a little slow for PTO work. I assume you mean 75x75' garden. An economy L is going to be fine for much work under 10 acres. Beyond that you probably want a bigger machine for most uses.

You can't push with a loader in float. The tractor will try to drive over the loader & the front will just come way off the grpound. Not particularly dangerous as long as you dont freak out & let the front end drop like a rock. You'll figure it out pretty quick.

You can push with the loader not in a fixed position. Its prone to gouging though. A back blade or front blade that floats at the blade rather than at the loader is better. You can make do with just a bucket for minimal usage though. A back blade can be found for a under $300 used if you keep an eye out.

Make sure you get the loader with the SSQA. I end up with my SSQA pallet forks on more than my bucket.

 

[ericm979]

I used to push piles of leaves and needles (we have a lot of large trees) on pavement with my old Kubota B7100's loader in float. Gouging the pavement is a problem- you have to be very careful. I did not have a problem with the loader jamming and raising the front end, probably because it was on pavement. I put a Pirana tooth bar on the bucket on my current Branson so I don't use that for road cleanup. The tooth bar helps a lot for scooping up chips. Large chips from a commercial chipper are very difficult to get the loader bucket into. Small chips from my PTO chipper are not a problem.

If you are going to rent a PTO chipper and want to chip much material over 3" or so you'll be wanting more PTO HP. Even hydraulic feed chippers can only feed so slow. Running a PTO chipper is a main use of my tractor. It turns out that I chip more large material than I expected and could use more than 32 hp at the pto. But if you are renting a chipper you can rent a self powered one. They're harder to manuver since they're trailers, which was a big factor for me as our land is steep and highly vegetated.

Operating on pavement will wear R1 tires down fast. If you are going to be doing that much, get R4s.

 

[nrosario]

Have you checked the Kioti CK2610?

Thanks.

 

[tractorshopper]

I had a predecessor to the L2501. I had the L3800. Pretty much same frame, little more HP. I found it to run out of traction before power. I think it is a very capable tractor and would have no hesitation purchasing one for the uses you describe.

 

[Ellen B]

Thanks for your replies everyone!

You can't push with a loader in float. The tractor will try to drive over the loader & the front will just come way off the ground. Not particularly dangerous as long as you dont freak out & let the front end drop like a rock. You'll figure it out pretty quick.

You can push with the loader not in a fixed position. Its prone to gouging though. A back blade or front blade that floats at the blade rather than at the loader is better. You can make do with just a bucket for minimal usage though. A back blade can be found for a under $300 used if you keep an eye out.

I saw this Messick's video where they talk about clearing snow with it in float. My driveway is paved, are you just talking about on dirt or am I missing something? I don't have any experience with this, just going from what I've seen/read online. I can't put a link in here until I post a few more times, but if you just look up "messick's snow loader" on youtube it'll come right up.

And I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for used attachments, my budget will be pretty much maxed out with this purchase so I can't do any more add-ons right now.

If you are going to rent a PTO chipper and want to chip much material over 3" or so you'll be wanting more PTO HP. Even hydraulic feed chippers can only feed so slow. Running a PTO chipper is a main use of my tractor. It turns out that I chip more large material than I expected and could use more than 32 hp at the pto. But if you are renting a chipper you can rent a self powered one. They're harder to manuver since they're trailers, which was a big factor for me as our land is steep and highly vegetated.

Operating on pavement will wear R1 tires down fast. If you are going to be doing that much, get R4s.

Thanks for the heads up about the chipper sizing. Sounds like I'll probably want a self-powered one when the time comes, as I can't afford to bump up the HP for that rare occasion.

As for the tires, only my driveway is paved so while the tractor will drive on it often getting from one place to another, probably 95% of the actual work will be done on dirt or grass. Would you recommend R1s or R4s in that situation. Thanks for bringing it up, I meant to ask that in my original post but forgot.

Have you checked the Kioti CK2610?

Not really, as the nearest Kioti dealer is about an hour away from me and seems to be mostly oriented towards heavier, used equipment. At least on their site, they don't have much new inventory in stock, but I have to run to town anyway today so I'll stop by there.

 

[JPB7745]

Ellen B I just purchased a L2501 for using on my land , mostly for moving trees for my manual sawmill. I have the SSQA on my FEL for the bucket and pallet forks (very useful!!) no problem with power just moved a good size pine log on the forks while dragging another behind with the 3-point. I think you will be glad with the L2501, just my 2 pennies!! good luck

 

[Tompet]

Did you have a chance to sit/compare both the B2650 and the L2501 at the dealer? Both are pretty popular models for good reason.

 

[PaulL2]

For moving your concrete mixer and other implements, I'd think about SSQA and pallet forks. Then you can put everything on pallets, and just pick them up. Way easier than messing with chains, and if you get forks that can go on your 3PH it's nicer to use too - you can carry stuff in your bucket plus a pallet of tools, concrete mixer, cement, whatever on the back.

You can clear snow with your loader in float. You need to be careful, but it works fine. Keep the front edge rolled back a bit so it doesn't dig in. It'll ride over some of the snow, but it'll work. Worst case you can clear backwards, and back drag with the bucket. That'll definitely work.

Width may be important, the L2501 is a bit wider than a B. But not so much wider it'll probably matter, unless you have some particular spaces between trees that you want to get through.

I agree that if renting a chipper, makes more sense to rent a self powered one. Then you can tow it to location with the tractor, then use the tractor to drag all the material to the chipper, rather than have your tractor tied to the chipper and stationary so you have to drag everything by hand.

 

[Fallon]

R1 (ag) tires are taller & skinnier with deeper lugs. They have better traction in softer dirt & self clean in mud. R4 (industrial) tires are made out of harder rubber, have greater weight capacity & are slightly less damaging to grass & turf.

R1 & R4 use different rims & aren't interchangeable. For the economy Kubotas the R4s are fixed width & non adjustable. I'm not sure if the R1 rims are adjustable. Personally I've been happy with R4s on both my machines, a hair less traction, but handle heavy loads better & tear up the ground slightly less.

 

[ericm979]

R4s are wider which makes for a more stable tractor on slopes. The tires have a more square profile and stiffer sidewalls which also helps lateral stability. R1 rims are usually adjustable for width. R4s often are but mostly on higher end tractors. On my Branson I got slightly smaller wheels and tires from a different model. That lowers the center of gravity for better stability at the cost of ground clearance. For me the tradeoff is worth it. I can be more careful of what I drive over but I can't change the slope of my land. I also got 2" spacers for the rear. The front axle on CUTs is on a pivot so the rear provides all the lateral stability on side hills. The front axle pivot will eventually run out of travel but that's farther than I want to take it.

The width specs for most tractors is with R1s set at minimum width. Some Kubotas list multiple widths.

 

[rScotty]

Ellen, you've gotten lots of good advice so far and I'd like to add a suggestion. I've used tractors on our mountain land for a lifetime now. Most of the work is what I'd characterize as "chore" work. Working in the woods or by the creek....picking up things and moving them to different areas. Firewood, landscaping, snow in the winter....that sort of thing. Not much traditional tractor work. For that kind of work, a TLB - tractor/loader/backhoe combo with R4 tires is a good fit. SSQA for the loader of course. And if you have a backhoe then please consider getting a thumb on it. Yes, they are horribly expensive, but it changes the entire nature of the beast from a digger into a "pickerup and placer". Very handy.

Anyway, to get back to my suggestion I'd like to recommend that you rent a tractor for one of these Indian Summer weeks we're having. I always recommend that and rarely does anyone do it. Maybe I'm explaining it wrong. But why not ask the dealer? He might be able to make it happen. And I am sure sure that you would learn more than you would ever believe possible. Ask for it with a loader and a back blade or box blade. Those are standard attachments, inexpensive...and everyone has them. Rent one and let us know what you think..
Luck,
rScotty

 

[Ellen B]

Thanks again for the help everyone! Bought the tractor and am very happy with it. I just thinned about 30 decent sized trees to get some more sun into what will be a pasture for the goats, so the tractor's job so far has been dragging logs up the hill. I've got the logs cut into 16' pieces so they probably weigh in the 1000-1500 pound range, too heavy to carry with the loader but it's having no problem dragging them around by lifting one end into the air with a chain. Then I'm carrying the 16" sections I'm bucking down to the pile where the splitter will be set up. Certainly makes life easier!

 

[JPB7745]

I glad you are enjoying the 2501, I'm sure this will be your favorite tool in the tool box!!

 

[check]

I agree with all of the comments. Look at the rear end of the L2501 vs. the B2650. Huge difference favouring the L2501.

 

[shooterdon]

You made a good choice! I like the 2501 as it offers good value and has a good reputation.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Great choice on the 2501... make sure you load the rears and add some wheel weights, made all the difference in the world on my 3301.

 

[kendive]

I just sold my 2005 B7510 with 357 hours on it. I bought it used back in 2010 and it been a great tractor no issues but I wanted HST and a little bigger one. I also just bought a used 2501 (255 Hours) with the LA525 loader and quick attach front with bucket. I also got Forks, Grapple, Box Blade, Weight Box, Bush Hog , and Finish Mower (rough shape) for 14500 still getting use to the HST but love the tractor so far and a great upgrade from my first tractor the B7510.

I have the paper work for all the service and when the tires where filled with fluid at the dealer. It was bought local and I have talked to the dealer and let them know I am the owner now.

Here are some pics.