dragoneggs
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2013
- Messages
- 13,627
- Location
- Seabeck, Washington
- Tractor
- Kubota BX-25D, Kubota Z122RKW-42
Yeah, looks pretty bad... and I am a novice thinking I could do way better.
The Summer of the Trailer Repair
- Thread starter Mark @ Everlast
- Start date
- Views: 4242
OP
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
No, well maybe yes somewhere. I have had one. But a good grinder and cup brush will fix it fine.
dragoneggs
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2013
- Messages
- 13,627
- Location
- Seabeck, Washington
- Tractor
- Kubota BX-25D, Kubota Z122RKW-42
Are you going to post progress pics? This could be a good example of how to do good weld repairs!
OP
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
I am going to try to, but time is important right now. I've got SEMA next week and leaving on Sunday. I've got to get it done. It's more important than a step by step photo documentary... But as you can see the first step is done. To get there:
1) I measured a 20 degree angle (you can do it with a protractor, or measure the cut and diagonal line forming a triangle, then use geometry to figure the angle/distance you want). I marked it and remeasured it. One side is off about 1/8" after cut and cleaning...but...I can fix that.
2) I blew out my last consumable and forgot to order a new plasma consumable the last time I used it. I was out of Acetylene, and decided to go ahead and make the switch over to propane after years of debate. Not sorry. Turning in my Acetylene cylinder in a few days. Eat that Airgas!. So I made the cut with my oxy-propane setup. One thing about it, is that the heat will burn your hand due to the way it disperses and heats up the surrounding metal more. The paint and rust popped back on me a good bit...one right down almost to my eardrum. But it was done.
3) I left the top (leg) portion of the 6 inch channel unmolested. That keeps everything intact and makes it easy to handle. It also preserves some of the strength somewhat, and makes things adjustable. After looking at it, my friend was worried (but not me) about the 20 degree angle. I've done this a lot, but to keep him happy, I'm going to fix it at 15 degrees. 20 degrees is not too steep. I'll have a gap now, but that's what welding is about. I'll plate it if I have to to reinforce it if I have to fill too much.
4) You can see all the cracks. I'll just vee it out and cut out all the over-reinforcement that I can and reweld it. Patching probably won't be too much of a concern.
Incidentally, he had brought it to me before, and left it a couple of days to put a hitch on it. But I could not get to it within his time frame after two days (had other projects that I had to work on) and he needed it I guess. He had another "welder" who has a roadside shop put the hitch on. It was actually a conversion from a Pintle hitch to an adjustable height conventional ball hitch. The guy welded it in visibly crooked and over reinforced (too cold I might add as well) the you know what out of it. If you see it in the pictures, that wasn't me. My friend never noticed it until I mentioned it, or at least didn't want to admit it. I pulled a tape and it is angled so the ball is sitting off center 1 7/8 to 2 inches to the passenger side. And it is slightly twisted too!!!
1) I measured a 20 degree angle (you can do it with a protractor, or measure the cut and diagonal line forming a triangle, then use geometry to figure the angle/distance you want). I marked it and remeasured it. One side is off about 1/8" after cut and cleaning...but...I can fix that.
2) I blew out my last consumable and forgot to order a new plasma consumable the last time I used it. I was out of Acetylene, and decided to go ahead and make the switch over to propane after years of debate. Not sorry. Turning in my Acetylene cylinder in a few days. Eat that Airgas!. So I made the cut with my oxy-propane setup. One thing about it, is that the heat will burn your hand due to the way it disperses and heats up the surrounding metal more. The paint and rust popped back on me a good bit...one right down almost to my eardrum. But it was done.
3) I left the top (leg) portion of the 6 inch channel unmolested. That keeps everything intact and makes it easy to handle. It also preserves some of the strength somewhat, and makes things adjustable. After looking at it, my friend was worried (but not me) about the 20 degree angle. I've done this a lot, but to keep him happy, I'm going to fix it at 15 degrees. 20 degrees is not too steep. I'll have a gap now, but that's what welding is about. I'll plate it if I have to to reinforce it if I have to fill too much.
4) You can see all the cracks. I'll just vee it out and cut out all the over-reinforcement that I can and reweld it. Patching probably won't be too much of a concern.
Incidentally, he had brought it to me before, and left it a couple of days to put a hitch on it. But I could not get to it within his time frame after two days (had other projects that I had to work on) and he needed it I guess. He had another "welder" who has a roadside shop put the hitch on. It was actually a conversion from a Pintle hitch to an adjustable height conventional ball hitch. The guy welded it in visibly crooked and over reinforced (too cold I might add as well) the you know what out of it. If you see it in the pictures, that wasn't me. My friend never noticed it until I mentioned it, or at least didn't want to admit it. I pulled a tape and it is angled so the ball is sitting off center 1 7/8 to 2 inches to the passenger side. And it is slightly twisted too!!!
