rangerrick180
New member
need info on how could i mount a tool box on my ym180 it has rop.
also what would be a good fuel additive to use periodically?
also what would be a good fuel additive to use periodically?
tool box mount
- Thread starter rangerrick180
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If you have good diesel you don't need an additive. :2cents:
ROPS Mounted Tool Box
rops tool box - Google Search
ROPS Mounted Tool Box
rops tool box - Google Search
OP
rangerrick180
New member
ok thanks good ideas on tool box mounting thanks a lot.
newbury
Super Star Member
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And what is "good" diesel?
Does it contain a biocide?
Lubricity additive?
How quickly do you use your diesel? A tank a day? A month? A year?
Or the is it the basic ULSD stuff you get out of your common pump at any truckstop which has neither.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Since these tractors were designed to run on fuel in rural japan 40 years ago, which has little in common with todays fuels, and the lubricity has been removed with the ULSD fuel today i run TWC3 marine two stroke oil in mine about 200-300/1 for lubricity, and i run silver bottle power service for cetane boost. As little fuel as i run the cost is negligable and i am useing up older two stroke oil i am not running in my boats anyway, and a smaller bottle of PS lasts me a few years.
clemsonfor
Super Member
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/356585-where-mount-tool-box-2.html#post4435451
See my post #12 in this thread. It shows how i mounted my toolbox. I jut put a piece of 3/4 pkywood under it the same size as the box. Took u bolts and bolted the box with the wood under it to the ROPS.
See my post #12 in this thread. It shows how i mounted my toolbox. I jut put a piece of 3/4 pkywood under it the same size as the box. Took u bolts and bolted the box with the wood under it to the ROPS.
Jtullis13
Platinum Member
I have ran diesels most of my life and the ULSD is an issue for many diesels out there. I have also used TWC3 like Clemsonfor before with good results, and I am sure there are a lot of guys on here that will chime in with their own additives or mixes ect. I routinely use Opti-Lube all year round and use Howes Diesel Treat in addition to the Opti-Lube in the winter.
California
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On the YM186D without ROPS the only place large enough for a toolbox was to attach it to the qhitch. This photo was to show temporary ballast but it also shows a plastic toolbox that rests on some rods sticking forward from the qhitch. To do it right I should weld a small shelf there, to hold a removable ammo can. I found a better picture.
I also have saddlebags hanging off the side of the hood. First generation was child size backpacks (photo) but now just canvas camera bags smaller than a purse, to carry only gloves, water bottle, hand pruner. Think how a horseman would do it.
I also wired a piece of PVC pipe to the loader mast by my left knee and carry long handle pruning shears there, or else sometimes drop a shovel in there handle-first. It's barely visible in this photo.
On the larger YM240 I have two golf bags lashed on for long handle tools and also a canvas shopping bag lashed to each side of its ROPS for my water bottle, gloves, etc. See my sig photo below. And this photo.
(The red YM186D in the sig photo has been replaced by the YM186D that has a loader).
I hope this has given you some ideas.
I also have saddlebags hanging off the side of the hood. First generation was child size backpacks (photo) but now just canvas camera bags smaller than a purse, to carry only gloves, water bottle, hand pruner. Think how a horseman would do it.
I also wired a piece of PVC pipe to the loader mast by my left knee and carry long handle pruning shears there, or else sometimes drop a shovel in there handle-first. It's barely visible in this photo.
On the larger YM240 I have two golf bags lashed on for long handle tools and also a canvas shopping bag lashed to each side of its ROPS for my water bottle, gloves, etc. See my sig photo below. And this photo.
(The red YM186D in the sig photo has been replaced by the YM186D that has a loader).
I hope this has given you some ideas.
Don't know that I can define "good" diesel. I go down to a close neighborhood store and fill my tractor up. Never had a problem in the 12 years I have been doing it. Reading over these forums has exposed many many incidents of contaminated diesel. Just sort of a common sense thing to me. Most of the time outside storage or long time storage seems to be the problem.
rScotty
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My vote for good diesel is to start with the basic ULSD (Ultra-Low-Sulfur-Diesel) fuel from my local gas station. I like to use a name brand and a newish station. All I'm looking for is basic clean consistant ULSD fuel. If I can find that, the next step is to put in some additives to add some lubricity, protect it from bacteria, and slow down the gelling in cold weather.
Lots of companies sell a basic diesel additive. John Deere and Opti-lube are two brands I use ..... mostly because I am familiar with them - having used them in the past. Of the two, I'd lean toward JD just because they have the most to gain by selling a decent product.
And if you don't want to do any of this, keep in mind that dirty diesel fuel problems are only a hassle, not a disaster. In 60 years now of working with tractors I've never personally seen a diesel that was permanently damaged by diesel fuel or additives of any kind.... maybe with the exception of starting fluid i.e. ether.
rScotty