tool box mount

[rangerrick180]

need info on how could i mount a tool box on my ym180 it has rop.
also what would be a good fuel additive to use periodically?

 

[winston1]

If you have good diesel you don't need an additive. :2cents:

ROPS Mounted Tool Box

rops tool box - Google Search

 

[rangerrick180]

ok thanks good ideas on tool box mounting thanks a lot.

 

[newbury]

If you have good diesel you don't need an additive. :2cents:

ROPS Mounted Tool Box

rops tool box - Google Search

And what is "good" diesel?
Does it contain a biocide?
Lubricity additive?
How quickly do you use your diesel? A tank a day? A month? A year?
Or the is it the basic ULSD stuff you get out of your common pump at any truckstop which has neither.

 

[clemsonfor]

Since these tractors were designed to run on fuel in rural japan 40 years ago, which has little in common with todays fuels, and the lubricity has been removed with the ULSD fuel today i run TWC3 marine two stroke oil in mine about 200-300/1 for lubricity, and i run silver bottle power service for cetane boost. As little fuel as i run the cost is negligable and i am useing up older two stroke oil i am not running in my boats anyway, and a smaller bottle of PS lasts me a few years.

 

[clemsonfor]

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/356585-where-mount-tool-box-2.html#post4435451

See my post #12 in this thread. It shows how i mounted my toolbox. I jut put a piece of 3/4 pkywood under it the same size as the box. Took u bolts and bolted the box with the wood under it to the ROPS.

 

[Jtullis13]

I have ran diesels most of my life and the ULSD is an issue for many diesels out there. I have also used TWC3 like Clemsonfor before with good results, and I am sure there are a lot of guys on here that will chime in with their own additives or mixes ect. I routinely use Opti-Lube all year round and use Howes Diesel Treat in addition to the Opti-Lube in the winter.

 

[California]

On the YM186D without ROPS the only place large enough for a toolbox was to attach it to the qhitch. This photo was to show temporary ballast but it also shows a plastic toolbox that rests on some rods sticking forward from the qhitch. To do it right I should weld a small shelf there, to hold a removable ammo can. I found a better picture.

I also have saddlebags hanging off the side of the hood. First generation was child size backpacks (photo) but now just canvas camera bags smaller than a purse, to carry only gloves, water bottle, hand pruner. Think how a horseman would do it.

I also wired a piece of PVC pipe to the loader mast by my left knee and carry long handle pruning shears there, or else sometimes drop a shovel in there handle-first. It's barely visible in this photo.

On the larger YM240 I have two golf bags lashed on for long handle tools and also a canvas shopping bag lashed to each side of its ROPS for my water bottle, gloves, etc. See my sig photo below. And this photo.
(The red YM186D in the sig photo has been replaced by the YM186D that has a loader).

I hope this has given you some ideas.

 

[winston1]

And what is "good" diesel?
Does it contain a biocide?
Lubricity additive?
How quickly do you use your diesel? A tank a day? A month? A year?
Or the is it the basic ULSD stuff you get out of your common pump at any truckstop which has neither.

Don't know that I can define "good" diesel. I go down to a close neighborhood store and fill my tractor up. Never had a problem in the 12 years I have been doing it. Reading over these forums has exposed many many incidents of contaminated diesel. Just sort of a common sense thing to me. Most of the time outside storage or long time storage seems to be the problem.

 

[rScotty]

And what is "good" diesel?
Does it contain a biocide?
Lubricity additive?
How quickly do you use your diesel? A tank a day? A month? A year?
Or the is it the basic ULSD stuff you get out of your common pump at any truckstop which has neither.

My vote for good diesel is to start with the basic ULSD (Ultra-Low-Sulfur-Diesel) fuel from my local gas station. I like to use a name brand and a newish station. All I'm looking for is basic clean consistant ULSD fuel. If I can find that, the next step is to put in some additives to add some lubricity, protect it from bacteria, and slow down the gelling in cold weather.

Lots of companies sell a basic diesel additive. John Deere and Opti-lube are two brands I use ..... mostly because I am familiar with them - having used them in the past. Of the two, I'd lean toward JD just because they have the most to gain by selling a decent product.

And if you don't want to do any of this, keep in mind that dirty diesel fuel problems are only a hassle, not a disaster. In 60 years now of working with tractors I've never personally seen a diesel that was permanently damaged by diesel fuel or additives of any kind.... maybe with the exception of starting fluid i.e. ether.
rScotty

 

[clemsonfor]

My vote for good diesel is to start with the basic ULSD (Ultra-Low-Sulfur-Diesel) fuel from my local gas station. I like to use a name brand and a newish station. All I'm looking for is basic clean consistant ULSD fuel. If I can find that, the next step is to put in some additives to add some lubricity, protect it from bacteria, and slow down the gelling in cold weather.

Lots of companies sell a basic diesel additive. John Deere and Opti-lube are two brands I use ..... mostly because I am familiar with them - having used them in the past. Of the two, I'd lean toward JD just because they have the most to gain by selling a decent product.

And if you don't want to do any of this, keep in mind that dirty diesel fuel problems are only a hassle, not a disaster. In 60 years now of working with tractors I've never personally seen a diesel that was permanently damaged by diesel fuel or additives of any kind.... maybe with the exception of starting fluid i.e. ether.
rScotty

But no additives for lubricity on these older diesels can lead to failure, of your injection pump.

 

[careyo63]

The way I have been using fuel is just Reg. ULSD from a well known supplier which is Murphy/Walmart. Couple miles from my house. I'll get everything for a Month. Mostly for my truck which holds 39gal. Gas and take the Diesel can for tractor fuel it's 2-1/2gal.. I want clean!! No Off Road which I can get 1/2 mile from my house or the Reg. Diesel which has been in the Tank who knows how long it's been there. I want to see "CLEAN" And my use of known quality.
I'm over 800 Tach. Hrs. that I put on it. Bought it ASIS. so who how many are actually on it with the 3Dig. Tach..?
So I'm thinking maybe it's time for me to add a lubricant. Which for me and most anyone else with a Hm. Weed Eater, Chain saw Etc. runs 2Cyl.. So I went to do the math @ 200/300-1.. Which of course I had to get the Calculator Out and it would seem to be so irrelevant IMO. It wouldn't be doing anything.
So the one's that does use it. Reg. 2cycle oil. What Ratio are you running.?
Thanks!!!!

 

[rScotty]

Here is a link to the only additive test that I've run across. It's often quoted on TBN. I'd feel more comfortable with it if there were at least one more test showing similar results....but at least it is something that reads scientific.

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

That additive test did include 2 stroke oil at 200: 1 and it gave a measureable reduction in wear in their test. 200:1 is roughly an oz. of 2 stroke oil per 1.5 gallon of diesel fuel.

The Opti-Lube XPD ratio tested was 256:1 or 1 oz per 2 gallons.

I sometimes use one and sometimes the other...
rScotty

 

[careyo63]

That's what I was coming up with also. But 300-1 was just not going to be very much oil. You would leave half it on the measuring cup or be there awhile just waiting for it to drip out. I'm going to read up on that link Scotty Thanks!!! I do have extra 5 gal. can and may do it that way. I'm well versed on the 2cyl. from my Boating/fishing days. But that was gas. My Ranger loved the 2cyl. and it was far from a POS...just sain............

 

[clemsonfor]

Well Johnson first auto mix system cut the ratio back to about 100:1 at idle. I think they richness it up a bit on the later models. Many that run am soil saber or some of the others are mixing their OPE at 100:1 it's there. Even at the 200:1 it dyes the fuel the oil color so it's there. It's a small amout. You also wash the cup out. There is so many diesel tests that run the twc3 oil in them and it always comes back as one of the top performers for lubricity. You want marine oil as it is designed to run at a lower water cooled temp like your tractor. OPE is air cooled and runs much hotter so the oil may not be the best in that motor or that combustion situation. And when I can I use off road. Trust me if you get fuel where logging crews get it it's fresh. One town I get it in has 2 stations with off road. There is over 14 logging crews that operate out of that town and each crew uses around 100 or more gallons a day. So that fuel is not old!

 

[careyo63]

And then you read this LOL.
The Fuel Expert
Well I'll finish it later. I think my weed eater calls for TWC3 but I've used reg.2cycle in it since I bought it new. Runs like a champ!! But all my stuff I own run 2cycle. Now Walart super TCW3 Says it's Useful in Fuel Injected 2 Cycle motors so that tells me is that's maybe the way to go. I'm going to check up more on it.

 

[Jtullis13]

And then you read this LOL.
The Fuel Expert
Well I'll finish it later. I think my weed eater calls for TWC3 but I've used reg.2cycle in it since I bought it new. Runs like a champ!! But all my stuff I own run 2cycle. Now Walart super TCW3 Says it's Useful in Fuel Injected 2 Cycle motors so that tells me is that's maybe the way to go. I'm going to check up more on it.

rScotty had the mixture ratio correct on the Twc3 and the Opti-Lube. The Walmart Super Tech TWC3 is a 2 cycle outboard oil, this is a low ash oil compared to most other 2 cycle oils for your weed wacker and such which may not be and create more carbon build up. TWC3 has more solvents too, I can go into further detail but that is the basics. As Clemsonfor said, these older engines/pumps were not meant to run on ULSD and will need some sort of lubricity additive, with out can lead to failure and fuel leaks. As before I still use both of these with good luck, but there are many other ones you can choose from, just choose wisely.

 

[careyo63]

I agree that some engines need the extra lubrication Esp. these 40 plus Yr. old Diesel tractors. I read and checked different testing and then go by my results for the last 11yrs. and right at 800 Tach. Hrs.. This test seems to fit my results. So I'm staying away from using anything.
Adding 2 Stroke Oil to Diesel
For me I bought this tractor looking like it just "literally rolled off a boat". Serious!!. After 11yrs. and will easily turn 800hrs. I put on it with no Problems I'm staying away. Esp. from 2cycle. And keep maintenance up.
If I do start to show or have problems I will consider using an Additive. And if or when I do it will most likely just be TWC3 and this is why. "Useful in Fuel Lubricated or injected motors".

Super Tech TC-W3 Outboard 2-Cycle Oil, 1 Gallon:
•Premium, high-quality
•Specially designed for use in outboard motors
•Ideal for motorcycles, snowmobiles, chain saws and garden equipment
•Also useful for other fuel-lubricated or fuel-injected 2-cycle engines
•Measures: 7.62"L x 3.87"W x 11.62"H
•Model# WM06104P Super Tech 2-cycle oil

:2cents:

 

[Jtullis13]

I agree that some engines need the extra lubrication Esp. these 40 plus Yr. old Diesel tractors. I read and checked different testing and then go by my results for the last 11yrs. and right at 800 Tach. Hrs.. This test seems to fit my results. So I'm staying away from using anything.
Adding 2 Stroke Oil to Diesel
For me I bought this tractor looking like it just "literally rolled off a boat". Serious!!. After 11yrs. and will easily turn 800hrs. I put on it with no Problems I'm staying away. Esp. from 2cycle. And keep maintenance up.
If I do start to show or have problems I will consider using an Additive. And if or when I do it will most likely just be TWC3 and this is why. "Useful in Fuel Lubricated or injected motors".

Super Tech TC-W3 Outboard 2-Cycle Oil, 1 Gallon:
•Premium, high-quality
•Specially designed for use in outboard motors
•Ideal for motorcycles, snowmobiles, chain saws and garden equipment
•Also useful for other fuel-lubricated or fuel-injected 2-cycle engines
•Measures: 7.62"L x 3.87"W x 11.62"H
•Model# WM06104P Super Tech 2-cycle oil

:2cents:

That's great that you haven't had any issues after than many hours, however if your tractor starts to show or have problems, it is likely to late to start adding any lubrication because the damage has already begun, it might slow down the process but won't reverse the damage. The purpose of the lubricity is to prevent damage from starting. Food for thought

 

[clemsonfor]

Most of your quality outboard oils, and yes I consider walmart to be one. Will say fuel injected motors since they basically all are now a days. I don't remember what they put in them tO qualify them that way..Moly maybe???

As for two stroke were not saying it will fail tomorrow, or next year or even 10 years or 800 hours but maybe at 1500 hours instead of never? Or maybe it dont happen, but we do know and can't argue that the sulphur was a lubricant. It's basically gone out of fuel these days, what was it replaced with? These pumps and injectors were designed to run on a fuel that is not what today's fuel is.

That said I have dumped old clean motor oil in my tractor to get rid of it, these motors will run on lots of stuff. Oil was diluted in almost 5 gallons of fuel not like I ran straight oil. It was a quart.