John deere 3320 cavitation fluid related?

[Spindifferent]

I use regular Hy-Gard in my 2005 model 3520 because the air-temperature range of regular Hy-Gard goes up to 122 degrees F, and I'm in Texas. While we thankfully don't get temps that high, the Low-Viscosity Hy-Gard only goes up to 86 degrees F, and 86 degrees would be a nice cool Summer for us.

I have a little over 800 hours on my 3520 and do occasionally have a jerky motion to 300cx loader when raising the loader arms upon first use of the loader. Bucket curl, steering, and 3-point all function smoothly. The jerky loader motion seems to disappear after a couple cycles of up/down and then all is good.

I don't use the loader often, so this does not bother me.

Is your 3320 an e-hydro unit? Also, I wonder if this could be related to the spool valve functionality?

 

[Justjake450]

Awesome! yep its e-hydro. Some say that is the cause as it aerates the fluid when traveling. I just cant imagine this is good on components or how a tractor like this is designed to work! Here in Kansas I work in some pretty hot weather too along with very cold but dealer still says low-vis. Still get the same results if its 100 or 10 outside and any were between so I doubt it has to with which Deere fluid I'm using. I just wonder if a different brand fluid would be less likely to be aerated by traveling if that's in fact what is causing this issue as some say including some dealers.

 

[Deere Dude]

Awesome! I just wonder if a different brand fluid would be less likely to be aerated by traveling if that's in fact what is causing this issue as some say including some dealers.

I wouldn't just try different stuff because every time that is done and don't work out a couple hundred bucks minimum is lost. Does the dealer suggest going from lo-vis to regular or the other way around.

I told my dealer I wanted hydro fluid for my 2010 3720 and he was automatically going to give me regular hydro fluid. I had to urge him that I wanted Lo-Vis because that is what is on the dipstick and the owners manual. I run mine in Tennessee and I can't believe Kansas is any hotter than it is here and all is good. Keep us posted if ypou try something different though.

 

[Deere Dude]

Awesome! I just wonder if a different brand fluid would be less likely to be aerated by traveling if that's in fact what is causing this issue as some say including some dealers.

I wouldn't just try different stuff because every time that is done and don't work out a couple hundred bucks minimum is lost. Does the dealer suggest going from lo-vis to regular or the other way around.

I told my dealer I wanted hydro fluid for my 2010 3720 and he was automatically going to give me regular hydro fluid. I had to urge him that I wanted Lo-Vis because that is what is on the dipstick and the owners manual. I run mine in Tennessee and I can't believe Kansas is any hotter than it is here and all is good. Keep us posted if ypou try something different though.

 

[Spindifferent]

Interesting reading on Hy-Gard for those that may not have seen this:

PMB Product:

My 3520 Owner's Manual has this to say:

"Choose oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes.

John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD™ transmission/hydraulic fluid is recommended. John Deere HY-GARD transmission/hydraulic fluid may also be used for temperatures above -18? C (0? F).

Other oils may be used if they meet John Deere standard JDM J20C or J20D."

 

[Cperk]

Interesting reading on Hy-Gard for those that may not have seen this:

PMB Product:

My 3520 Owner's Manual has this to say:

"Choose oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes.

John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD transmission/hydraulic fluid is recommended. John Deere HY-GARD transmission/hydraulic fluid may also be used for temperatures above -18? C (0? F).

Other oils may be used if they meet John Deere standard JDM J20C or J20D."

I think my 4120 manual is about the same. I live in Alabama and on a 40 deg f day, mine with low vis will cavitate a little in the steering before the fluid gets warmed up. When I tried the reg hy gard the cavitating would never go away no matter how warm the fluid got. Filter is new and screens clean. I do hear the cavitation worse after about a year has gone by and the suction spin on filter needs changed. I change it every year if it needs it or not.

 

[radios1]

an Accumulator can fix that. Accumulators | Hydraulics & Pneumatics

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Try raising the fluid level in the sump. The pump might be sucking in air. Did your dealer check the internals of the pump and how it gets its suction. For hydraulic fluid of any viscosity air introduced into the pump suction is the primary cause of cavitation. Any obstruction in the suction side will starve the pump creating a negative pressure and causing it to whirlpool air in. I doubt the fluid used is the problem. As this is a common problem it may well be a design flaw. Might be a real expensive recall for the OEM so it is ignored.

Ron

Ron

 

[Justjake450]

Try raising the fluid level in the sump. The pump might be sucking in air. Did your dealer check the internals of the pump and how it gets its suction. For hydraulic fluid of any viscosity air introduced into the pump suction is the primary cause of cavitation. Any obstruction in the suction side will starve the pump creating a negative pressure and causing it to whirlpool air in. I doubt the fluid used is the problem. As this is a common problem it may well be a design flaw. Might be a real expensive recall for the OEM so it is ignored.

Ron

Ron

Yes I ran it up to a gallon over full with no improvement so I put it back to the full. I agree I don't think the fluid itself should cause this due to all the conditions it happens but just looking to try anything! since I can see a drop in charge pressure when this happens I'm considering removing resealing and inspection charge pump. possible it is pulling some air in and not causing an external leak I guess.

 

[Deere Dude]

Could it be the wrong dipstick? I was having trouble with mine at lower RPMs but the hydro was at the lower hash mark on the dipstick, so I figured one quart low, but close enough. Then I filled it to the full mark but it actually took a gallon to move that half inch, then all was good after that. So when the manual says it takes x gallons, I don't believe it. But you went to one gallon over so that should negate that scenario.