Tractor Sizing TRACTOR WEIGHT as a SINGLE CRITERION IN TRACTOR SELECTION

[jeff9366]

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[jeff9366]

WORKING DRAFT (7.42)​

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to define potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.

Tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are generally offered in a economy configuration and a deluxe configuration. Deluxe kit enhances productivity and operator comfort ~~~ but you must pay.

Heavier tractors are constructed on larger frames and longer wheelbases. Heavier tractors are built with thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors have larger wheels/tires. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Large wheels and tires enable heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less implement and operator disturbance.



Four wheel drive is essential on hillsides. Four wheel drive supplies increased traction and braking. When descending slopes 4-WD augments rear brakes as tractor weight shifts forward, decreasing rear tire grip.

Compact tractors optimized for hill work have liquid installed in the rear tires rather than air. "Loaded" tires are filled 50% with liquid, which lowers the tractor's center-of-gravity, increasing rollover resistance. "Loading" two compact tractor rear tires will increase tractor weight 300 pounds to 800 pounds over weight of identical two tires inflated with air. Some prefer to ballast rear wheels with iron wheel weights rather than liquids.



A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important to tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after nine years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.​

 

[Trillium Farm]

On this question of tractor weight, would a Deere 5065M with 65 HP and weighing about 7800 lbs with cab, be a better tractor for land shaping, loader work, haying, and running a tree shaker than say a Kubota 7060 or 8560? I'm a complete neophyte on tractors but really like a 5065M for sale in my area. Worried about the HP though. The same dealer has a 5425 with more horsepower but a little lighter. Thanks

As a general rule of thumb, weight is only important if you have soil engaging implements, here you need weight to transfer power to the wheels, if OTOH you need PTO horsepower, weight has nothing to do with that and here you would not need it, if it's only pulling power w/o engaging the soil, then you need as much hp as the weight of whatever you pull requires.

 

[Atchuuu]

As a general rule of thumb, weight is only important if you have soil engaging implements, here you need weight to transfer power to the wheels, if OTOH you need PTO horsepower, weight has nothing to do with that and here you would not need it, if it's only pulling power w/o engaging the soil, then you need as much hp as the weight of whatever you pull requires.

I have found the extra weight on my tractor to be helpful when hauling items with the FEL, using the pallet forks (okay I admit I just bought them and only moved one thing) or clearing brush with the tooth bar. I have only used a ground engaging implement one time since purchasing this tractor but have had several occasions where traction was an issue.

 

[Trillium Farm]

I have found the extra weight on my tractor to be helpful when hauling items with the FEL, using the pallet forks (okay I admit I just bought them and only moved one thing) or clearing brush with the tooth bar. I have only used a ground engaging implement one time since purchasing this tractor but have had several occasions where traction was an issue.

Absolutely, but that can be solved by adding weights to the front of the tractor or rear wheels for when it's needed.

 

[jeff9366]

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel ballast fourth.

(Usually, but sometimes not.)

 

[jeff9366]

Heavier tractors are constructed on larger frames and longer wheelbases. Heavier tractors are built with thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less implement and operator perturbation.

 

[Atchuuu]

Absolutely, but that can be solved by adding weights to the front of the tractor or rear wheels for when it's needed.

I would rather purchase my weight in the "tractor" and not in add on weight. This may not be the case for people concerned mostly with mowing the lawn but a tractor isn't the cheapest, fastest or best way to mow a lawn.

 

[aczlan]

Heavier tractors are constructed on larger frames and longer wheelbases. Heavier tractors are built with thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires, increasing ground clearance. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires enable heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

Note that some heavier tractors use more metal in their castings so that they can use a lower grade of metal, or poor structural design (where its easier to just add more metal to make it stronger).

Aaron Z

 

[Trillium Farm]

I would rather purchase my weight in the "tractor" and not in add on weight. This may not be the case for people concerned mostly with mowing the lawn but a tractor isn't the cheapest, fastest or best way to mow a lawn.

You are right, there are many & better way than a tractor to mow a lawn.
I prefer to be able to "alter" the weight of the tractor to suit my needs so the I don't have to carry all the xtra weight when it is not needed, this results in using less fuel and above al less soil compaction. If one uses the FEL all the time then one can add as much weight as needed to the rear wheels to counterbalance it, if the weigh is in the 3pt or plowing then one can add weights to the front and if field work like harrowing or cultivating where weight is not needed one can do without the xtra weight. All this presupposes that I started with a weight close to what may be needed for the majority of work and not for the odd task.