jeff9366
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2011
- Messages
- 12,777
- Tractor
- Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3,700 pounds bare tractor, 5,400 pounds operating weight, 37 horsepower
40 Acres, Steep!, 1 Mile Road; Need Advice
- Thread starter Pugemasta
- Start date
- Views: 20078
Diggin It
Super Star Member
This is one of those where one machine might not be the best to do all. You might be better off looking at a separate snow machine. How much snow is typical and how often? And will you NEED to get in and out after every snow?
oosik
Epic Contributor
Good morning there Pugemasta and welcome to NE WA state and TBN. While the Branson 5220H will have sufficient HP - I wonder if it will have the weight required to get done all you need to do - - safely. For sure - add Rim Guard to the rear tires. As an option at the time of purchase Rim Guard may be a bit cheaper. Also there is RV antifreeze. I can STRONGLY suggest you stay away from calcium chloride or windshield washer solution. Salt water solution is to rough on the stem and valve core of the tires and windshield washer solution may not protect to the cold temps you will undoubtedly see on the new property.
You are DEFINITELY moving onto property where snow and cold temps will be a major concern.
Have the dealer set the rear wheels at the widest position possible and the fronts at a mid point.
R-4's will have greater load carrying capacity but R-1's would have better traction. I have 6 ply R-1's - front and rear with Rim Guard in the rears. The only time I have to be a bit careful - max load in the bucket or with my grapple and NO SHARP turns - could possibly roll the front tires off their rims. I have MAX pressure in my front tires and have not had problems with my Kubota M6040.
I have very mixed feelings about the backhoe attachment. Its a whole lot of extra money and most have only occasional use for this implement. It might be better to rent a mini excavator or backhoe for the work needed.
I chose an open station tractor for a couple reasons - - cost, I don't HAVE to be out in the bitter cold at any specific time - I'm retired. SO - I can bundle up in all my Eddie Bauer down and choose when I go out. And then damage that large trees can have on cabbed tractors. My property has lots of ancient, giant Ponderosa pines. They just love putting a whipping on cabbed tractors.
All in all - I'm very pleased with my Kubota M6040. It weighs - 10,100 pounds with my grapple on the FEL and my Rhino rear blade on the 3-point.
I maintain my mile long gravel driveway with the rear blade - no sweat - summer & winter. This Rhino rear blade is FINALLY a heavy enough implement to do summer maintenance on the driveway when it dries and hardens up like concrete. For those first snows when the driveway hasn't "hardened up" yet - I reverse the rear blade and drive forward - leaving most of the gravel where it should be.
By-the-way - - where is your property from say - Colville? Amber, where I live, is exactly 25 miles SW of Spokane - as the crow flies.
You are DEFINITELY moving onto property where snow and cold temps will be a major concern.
Have the dealer set the rear wheels at the widest position possible and the fronts at a mid point.
R-4's will have greater load carrying capacity but R-1's would have better traction. I have 6 ply R-1's - front and rear with Rim Guard in the rears. The only time I have to be a bit careful - max load in the bucket or with my grapple and NO SHARP turns - could possibly roll the front tires off their rims. I have MAX pressure in my front tires and have not had problems with my Kubota M6040.
I have very mixed feelings about the backhoe attachment. Its a whole lot of extra money and most have only occasional use for this implement. It might be better to rent a mini excavator or backhoe for the work needed.
I chose an open station tractor for a couple reasons - - cost, I don't HAVE to be out in the bitter cold at any specific time - I'm retired. SO - I can bundle up in all my Eddie Bauer down and choose when I go out. And then damage that large trees can have on cabbed tractors. My property has lots of ancient, giant Ponderosa pines. They just love putting a whipping on cabbed tractors.
All in all - I'm very pleased with my Kubota M6040. It weighs - 10,100 pounds with my grapple on the FEL and my Rhino rear blade on the 3-point.
I maintain my mile long gravel driveway with the rear blade - no sweat - summer & winter. This Rhino rear blade is FINALLY a heavy enough implement to do summer maintenance on the driveway when it dries and hardens up like concrete. For those first snows when the driveway hasn't "hardened up" yet - I reverse the rear blade and drive forward - leaving most of the gravel where it should be.
By-the-way - - where is your property from say - Colville? Amber, where I live, is exactly 25 miles SW of Spokane - as the crow flies.
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MikeInEburg
Veteran Member
For such a long driveway, I'd consider a land plane instead of box blade.
GSVette
Gold Member
I bought an LS XR4155HC for most of the same purposes as you-less road (only about 1/2 mile), not as steep.
LS is a 55 hp 3 range hydro-was in your stated range.
oosik
Epic Contributor
Well - I can tell you of my situation.
I have a straight as an arrow, mile long, gravel driveway with one rather steep valley in the middle. In and out of the valley is only somewhat of a challenge in the winter, when sheet ice has formed on the one exit out of the valley. Otherwise, its an easy snow plow job and with my heavy duty rear blade - summer maintenance only requires time.
I have three implements that I can use to maintain this driveway. Rhino 950 rear blade - 8 feet wide x 1100 pounds. Bush Hog 720 roll over box blade - 6 feet wide x 710 pounds and Land Pride GS2584 Land Plane Grading scraper - 7 feet wide x 796 pounds.
The Land Plane Grading scraper(LPGS) is by far the easiest implement to use and use successfully. However - this implement will not crown the driveway, will not clean out the ditches and, obviously, not plow snow. My driveway has several areas where bedrock and LARGE rocks are right on the surface - the land plane just bounces over these areas. Surprisingly - the land plane is NOT heavy enough to break the surface when the driveway dries and hardens after spring rains. It sort of just bounces along, making sparks and leaving scrape marks. Oh, have I mentioned - my driveway will harden like concrete after spring rains and remain this way until now, when we get fall rains and early snows. I do use the LPGS to cut new trails out and around the property.
The roll over box blade( ROBB ) is used on my one 150 foot section of the driveway that gets muddy every spring & fall. Its not that difficult to use - I also have a hydraulic top link that makes successful use fairly easy. I will drag, scoop, transport and deposit new soil to this muddy area with the ROBB. I do not use the ROBB on any other part of the driveway because I believe in the idea - "If things are OK, then why tear them up and redo them". I use the ROBB in other areas of the property to flatten hills, transport large amounts of soil and create structural features out of soil.
The rear blade is the most difficult implement to master. However, its also the most universal implement. It will grade the driveway, clean out the ditches, crown the driveway, plow the snow and to a limited extent move soil from here to there. It along with my hydraulic top link is my choice for driveway maintenance.
So - in a nutshell that's how things go here.
I have a straight as an arrow, mile long, gravel driveway with one rather steep valley in the middle. In and out of the valley is only somewhat of a challenge in the winter, when sheet ice has formed on the one exit out of the valley. Otherwise, its an easy snow plow job and with my heavy duty rear blade - summer maintenance only requires time.
I have three implements that I can use to maintain this driveway. Rhino 950 rear blade - 8 feet wide x 1100 pounds. Bush Hog 720 roll over box blade - 6 feet wide x 710 pounds and Land Pride GS2584 Land Plane Grading scraper - 7 feet wide x 796 pounds.
The Land Plane Grading scraper(LPGS) is by far the easiest implement to use and use successfully. However - this implement will not crown the driveway, will not clean out the ditches and, obviously, not plow snow. My driveway has several areas where bedrock and LARGE rocks are right on the surface - the land plane just bounces over these areas. Surprisingly - the land plane is NOT heavy enough to break the surface when the driveway dries and hardens after spring rains. It sort of just bounces along, making sparks and leaving scrape marks. Oh, have I mentioned - my driveway will harden like concrete after spring rains and remain this way until now, when we get fall rains and early snows. I do use the LPGS to cut new trails out and around the property.
The roll over box blade( ROBB ) is used on my one 150 foot section of the driveway that gets muddy every spring & fall. Its not that difficult to use - I also have a hydraulic top link that makes successful use fairly easy. I will drag, scoop, transport and deposit new soil to this muddy area with the ROBB. I do not use the ROBB on any other part of the driveway because I believe in the idea - "If things are OK, then why tear them up and redo them". I use the ROBB in other areas of the property to flatten hills, transport large amounts of soil and create structural features out of soil.
The rear blade is the most difficult implement to master. However, its also the most universal implement. It will grade the driveway, clean out the ditches, crown the driveway, plow the snow and to a limited extent move soil from here to there. It along with my hydraulic top link is my choice for driveway maintenance.
So - in a nutshell that's how things go here.
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Egon
Epic Contributor
Steep grades and snow combined with road maintenance & trail building.
R4 tires with good quality chains. Chains all around if there is a lot of ice and snow in winter. Front bucket works fine for heavy snow. Let痴 you keep a full width drive. A rear blade with wheels works for light snow and road maintenance. Probably the best out there other than a nice Cat 16!! Snowblowers are nice for both light & deep snow but front mounted you lose the loader use. Rear mounted works just fine but requires your body to be flexible and twist. ( old folks may have trouble )
With the steep grades and ice a heavy tractor may have difficulty. In your case HP is only an issue if a blower is mounted.
A backhoe might be considered a necessity for bringing the road up to your standards and making trails. Sounds like it would be well used. In winter it can help extract the tractor from sticky situations using the bucket & backhoe.
HST would really make your work much easier!
R4 tires with good quality chains. Chains all around if there is a lot of ice and snow in winter. Front bucket works fine for heavy snow. Let痴 you keep a full width drive. A rear blade with wheels works for light snow and road maintenance. Probably the best out there other than a nice Cat 16!! Snowblowers are nice for both light & deep snow but front mounted you lose the loader use. Rear mounted works just fine but requires your body to be flexible and twist. ( old folks may have trouble )
With the steep grades and ice a heavy tractor may have difficulty. In your case HP is only an issue if a blower is mounted.
A backhoe might be considered a necessity for bringing the road up to your standards and making trails. Sounds like it would be well used. In winter it can help extract the tractor from sticky situations using the bucket & backhoe.
HST would really make your work much easier!
LouNY
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2015
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- 12,384
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- Greenwich, NY
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
You have been getting lots of good advice.
While I have had and used 3 point backhoe attachments I am not a fan of them.
I guess it depends on what you expect from them, I much prefer a dedicated backhoe
or excavator.
I haven't seen many in quite a few years but crawler tractors with loaders or blades with an attached
backhoe used to be popular machines, rugged and a bit clumsy, and like any vehicle with tracks
high maintenance. But when in good shape a very versatile and hard working piece of equipment.
As far as a front mount snowblower, most mid sized tractors do not have a mid or front mounted pto;
so a front mount snow blower is driven hydraulically from a 3 point mounted hydraulic power pack,
or a drop box and pto shaft under the tractor. The first can be loader mounted the second is usually
frame mounted which would mean removing a FEL which can be done sometimes with ease some times not so.
I don't know your mechanical ability or desires but older larger dedicated equipment may be one way to go.
Many people have difficulty with rear mounted equipment, a larger tractor may well be equipped with a seat that will swivel
some, I'm old enough to have some difficulty twisting around a lot, but when mowing hay, chopping hay or corn I am
constantly twisted around for several hours a day with a seat that will twist a bit maybe 20 degrees I can go for hours looking mostly rearward.
With 25% grades in the winter I would definitely expect to have chains on any tractor.
Also frozen ground or ice with steel tracks on hills, get ready to go skating. Not a lot of fun at times.
If you are in an area of considerable snow a large chained up ag tractor with a pull type blower will be good;
then a smaller 4wd tractor (40 hp) for general tasks, and a separate backhoe or excavator.
A lot of equipment and your budget is shot and if garaged your budget is really gone.
Good luck with your purchases.
While I have had and used 3 point backhoe attachments I am not a fan of them.
I guess it depends on what you expect from them, I much prefer a dedicated backhoe
or excavator.
I haven't seen many in quite a few years but crawler tractors with loaders or blades with an attached
backhoe used to be popular machines, rugged and a bit clumsy, and like any vehicle with tracks
high maintenance. But when in good shape a very versatile and hard working piece of equipment.
As far as a front mount snowblower, most mid sized tractors do not have a mid or front mounted pto;
so a front mount snow blower is driven hydraulically from a 3 point mounted hydraulic power pack,
or a drop box and pto shaft under the tractor. The first can be loader mounted the second is usually
frame mounted which would mean removing a FEL which can be done sometimes with ease some times not so.
I don't know your mechanical ability or desires but older larger dedicated equipment may be one way to go.
Many people have difficulty with rear mounted equipment, a larger tractor may well be equipped with a seat that will swivel
some, I'm old enough to have some difficulty twisting around a lot, but when mowing hay, chopping hay or corn I am
constantly twisted around for several hours a day with a seat that will twist a bit maybe 20 degrees I can go for hours looking mostly rearward.
With 25% grades in the winter I would definitely expect to have chains on any tractor.
Also frozen ground or ice with steel tracks on hills, get ready to go skating. Not a lot of fun at times.
If you are in an area of considerable snow a large chained up ag tractor with a pull type blower will be good;
then a smaller 4wd tractor (40 hp) for general tasks, and a separate backhoe or excavator.
A lot of equipment and your budget is shot and if garaged your budget is really gone.
Good luck with your purchases.
repete
Veteran Member
I will share what I have learned in SW Washington in regard to road construction and maintenance of a 4000' road through soft marsh and up two rather steep grades. First, get a wide road cut by a professional on a dozer. Have the road crowned for drainage on either side. When they set the road base, avoid the big crushed rock that loggers like to place, it will cause you destroyed tires and headaches for a long time into the future. I had to run 10 ply tires on my wife's van as I got sick of the big rocks turning up and punching a non repairable hole in anything less.
Once the road is set, use a landscape rake to maintain the surface and crown. No crown equals pot holes. The reason I use the rake is to distribute the 5/8 rock back across the surface. A blade will scrape it one way or the other but will not distribute it.
I know this sort of flies in the face of the way most people maintain their roads but every person who comes up my driveway comments on how nice it is,never a pothole. This has been done for 20+ years with an L2550DT. Now it takes me about two hours a month to maintain the road and this little tractor has 5700 hours on it.
Once the road is set, use a landscape rake to maintain the surface and crown. No crown equals pot holes. The reason I use the rake is to distribute the 5/8 rock back across the surface. A blade will scrape it one way or the other but will not distribute it.
I know this sort of flies in the face of the way most people maintain their roads but every person who comes up my driveway comments on how nice it is,never a pothole. This has been done for 20+ years with an L2550DT. Now it takes me about two hours a month to maintain the road and this little tractor has 5700 hours on it.
oosik
Epic Contributor
As you can see - many differing implements can be used. In the beginning - 1982 - I had my driveway constructed by a private contractor. It ended up - smooth as a baby's butt. Folks who would visit would brag about how fast they could drive down my driveway. Great clouds of dust and ash(Mt St Helens - 1980) would rise up like the devil himself.
I found if I left a pot hole here and there the only thing I would hear is how they could no longer zoom down my driveway. A method to every madness.
I could, quite easily, fix them all. But then the devil would rise up again.
I found if I left a pot hole here and there the only thing I would hear is how they could no longer zoom down my driveway. A method to every madness.
I could, quite easily, fix them all. But then the devil would rise up again.
