Grading Thoughts on using subcompact for gravel drive grading ?

[Randy Gann]

I have about 1/4 mile gravel drive, some flat, some gentle slope with a couple of sharp almost 90 degree turns. Have been using an old Oliver 550 diesel with 6 foot box scrape to grade. Does not do well for keeping crown . . . but it works for now. The Oliver 550 is a little larger and heavier than a Ford 8N. The old tractor sits a lot because all I really use it for is driveway maintenance. Thinking about replacing the old tractor with something that I would utilize more. Considering a subcompact with midmount mower and FEL. Already have a nice Z turn for mowing . . but both wife and myself could mow with subcompact that would not tear up the yard. Could also use the subcompact for other general chores around the yard, moving firewood, moving mulch, general cleanup. Hope it would obsolete the old wheelbarrow. My concern is the ability of a subcompact to maintain my gravel drive. I know I would probably need to get rid of 6 foot box scrape and move down to a 4 foot box scrape and 4" scrape blade - - but taking the time for additional passes is not an issue. Also, would I be better with turf tires or R4 ? Anyone have good experience using subcompact for gravel drive maintenance ?

 

[Jchonline]

How compacted does your drive get? Why doesnt the Oliver work well? No angle adjustment, etc?

 

[jeff9366]

Hope it would obsolete the old wheelbarrow.

This task a subcompact tractor will do well.

 

[Diggin It]

... could mow with subcompact that would not tear up the yard.

That's not necessarily true. You'll be dealing with 1,500 pounds or more. Maybe closer to 2,000 with the operator in the seat. That can put a lot of stress on a lawn. Me, I don't care because mine is basically a collection of field grasses and other stuff that's green sometimes. There can also be an issue or turning if you get one with 4WD as the fronts can tear things up in tight turns.

 

[ruffdog]

That's not necessarily true. You'll be dealing with 1,500 pounds or more. Maybe closer to 2,000 with the operator in the seat. That can put a lot of stress on a lawn. Me, I don't care because mine is basically a collection of field grasses and other stuff that's green sometimes. There can also be an issue or turning if you get one with 4WD as the fronts can tear things up in tight turns.

My TC33D with supersteer, turfs, and belly mower was a great yard mower that NEVER tore up the yard. People should test drive the tractors on the gravel at the dealers. If the tractor scrubs with the front tires at the dealer, they will in your yard too.

 

[Randy Gann]

The driveway gets pretty hard in the hot N.C. summers. The Oliver is plenty heavy to dig with the box scrape. But a box scrape is not really the best tool to build a crown on a gravel drive. No angle adjust and does not throw gravel from the driveway edge back to the middle crown. A scrape blade would work better to build crown (for drainage) but I have not yet purchased a scrape blade. My post is really about ability of light weight subcompact to dig sufficient into hardpack gravel to maintain the gravel drive. Will a 1,700 lb tractor dig well enough to pull the gravel back up?
Related to tearing up yard, we mow about 4 acres mostly yard that was previously pasture. So it is a mix of field grasses, clover, etc. . . my wife loves to spin around the Z-turn so she has already created a lot of bare spot divots in the yard. Not trying to have golf fairway yard. My thinking is that a subcompact would do less rutting and tracking in the yard that the heavy Oliver tractor. The Oliver bare weight is 3,750 from TractorData - - mine has filled tires and my 200 lbs - - I am easily well over 4,000 with the aggressive Ag tires. Hoping a subcompact with R4 would do less rutting and tracking in yard.

 

[Jchonline]

It is hard to find a super heavy rear blade on a SCUT, but perhaps others have experience with this. Perhaps the crowning would need to happen after the ground is softer? The cheapest route would be a rear angle blade on the Oliver, but that would mean no new tractor

So thats the dilemna...a machine that can do ground engaging tasks with a rear blade, but that wont muck up the yard with the weight.

 

[Code54]

You may want to at least look at something like a Kubota "B" Series. Little bit bigger than a subcompact BX so that is good for the driveway but still small enough to mow with. I have owned a several Kubota's and love my BX but hard packed road maintenance is tough with it. It's just a bit small for digging into hard pack but can be done if you don't mind taking small bites at it. The B will also mow without rutting as long as you don't do it when it is soaking wet out.

 

[Randy Gann]

It is hard to find a super heavy rear blade on a SCUT, but perhaps others have experience with this. Perhaps the crowning would need to happen after the ground is softer? The cheapest route would be a rear angle blade on the Oliver, but that would mean no new tractor

So thats the dilemna...a machine that can do ground engaging tasks with a rear blade, but that wont muck up the yard with the weight.

Jchonline - - You hit the nail on the head ! I want a tractor light enough to use in the yard - - but still be able to handle the gravel drive ! It has been so wet here in NC that I would not dare drive the Oliver out of the barn because I know it will leave big ruts in the yard just getting to the drive.

 

[Randy Gann]

Code54 - - thanks for the reply. A smaller "compact" versus "subcompact" may do better in driveway but would still work in yard - - as long as I mindful of how soft or wet the ground might be at that time. We plan on our Z-turn mower remaining our go to machine for mowing - - Toro Titan with 60" deck - - but the tractor would be helpful to get done faster with 2 people mowing at once.