48x39x14 shop build

[ovrszd]

I can have two bulbs with the same 3500K and one will have much better color rendering... in GE the difference ordering is between the SP and the SPX 4' fluorescent.

I use the SPX in the public spaces of the hospital... makes for just the right lighting...

I use the cheaper SP bulbs for supply, mechanical rooms, storage areas, etc...

The CEO want to know when I had painted the hallway... said nice job... ALL I DID WAS CHANGE OUT THE BULBS TO THE 3500K SPX

The GE SPX series T8 lamps offer high efficiency at 91 lumens/watt and long life - up to 36,000 hours with programmed rapid start operation. This lamp delivers high quality illumination with a CRI of 85 making it an excellent choice for office troffers, classroom ceiling fixtures and other diffuse ambient lighting applications.

Good stuff.

I'm inching closer to converting my lights. I'm sure I need to eliminate the ballasts.

When that time comes I may pick your brain a little about what bulbs I need to use.

 

[ovrszd]

That is a nice structure :thumbsup:

Thank you.

We're building a house there too and hope to move in by 01 April.

 

[Fallon]

I'm almost positive that my problem is the ballasts. They are emitting a radio frequency very similar to the frequency used by my openers. This creates "noise" that the opener can't handle. So it never "hears" the remote signal.

If your lights function without similar ballasts you should be fine.

I can't find anyone with this problem. I've talked with others that have range problems. But none that are as specific as mine. Just my luck...

Not quite true... Any cheap power supply will have issues. You are right on a noisy RF enviroment drowning out your opener though. The cheap LED light bars I put on my tractor cause RF issues as well. 2 different brands & sizes. The front only causes maybe a 75% loss in signal when I flip it on (radio is pretty much useless) & the rear a 25% loss in signal.

LEDs run at 1.8 to 3.3v DC generally. So generally every power source needs a power supply to convert things from 110v AC or 12-24v DC. These days it's all switch mode power supplies. They switch on & off really fast to lower the voltage. Generally cheap & efficient, but all that switching is at RF frequencies & can be as noisy as the flourescent ballasts.

 

[GSVette]

That is a nice structure :thumbsup:

Thanks-was really trying to show the amount of lighting out of commercial LED highbays

 

[GSVette]

Not quite true... Any cheap power supply will have issues. You are right on a noisy RF enviroment drowning out your opener though. The cheap LED light bars I put on my tractor cause RF issues as well. 2 different brands & sizes. The front only causes maybe a 75% loss in signal when I flip it on (radio is pretty much useless) & the rear a 25% loss in signal.

LEDs run at 1.8 to 3.3v DC generally. So generally every power source needs a power supply to convert things from 110v AC or 12-24v DC. These days it's all switch mode power supplies. They switch on & off really fast to lower the voltage. Generally cheap & efficient, but all that switching is at RF frequencies & can be as noisy as the flourescent ballasts.

I can second that-I was somewhat surprised to find my LEDs actually made noise that was noticeable when running-I haven’t had an RF issue (at least with radios and garage door opener)

 

[bigtiller]

I'm watching this with more interest now.
My 5 year old tin shed has never been a problem with the radio or opening the door.
But I got to thinking, I never have the 20 - 6 tube T8 florescent lights on.
I have 8 windows in the overhead door, one in the service door, and 10 in the west,east & south walls.
so I really don't need the lights on very often.

Today, I turned all the lights on and tried to open the overhead door..... no love, just like you.
I had to be inches away from the door to open it.

So I am watching and listening.
I will also be calling my lift-master door installer after the holidays to inquire about a solution to this problem.

 

[ultrarunner]

Good stuff.

I'm inching closer to converting my lights. I'm sure I need to eliminate the ballasts.

When that time comes I may pick your brain a little about what bulbs I need to use.

Today it is hard to beat LED technology for a number of reasons.

The Hospital addition circa 1995 was all T8 and we received an award for using the latest technology.

Really don't have any complaints as the T8 with electronic ballasts were such an improvement over what we had... some of the bulbs are simply locked on 24/7 in hallways and every once in a while I still come across one of the old Sylvania 1995 T8 bulbs... kind of amazing.

I've got enough T8 to last a lifetime... but I also did LED bulb only install at Mom's house... it was a spiritual event... the old Frankenstein bulbs from 1959 with arc and hum as they warmed up... bulb swap from Costco and the garage is transformed...

My brother bought a dozen fixtures for $20 last night at home depot... 4' fixture with two bulbs... he wanted to let me know anytime I was bored to come on out to the farm... I had bought him a single one two years ago and he liked it...

 

[ovrszd]

Not quite true... Any cheap power supply will have issues. You are right on a noisy RF enviroment drowning out your opener though. The cheap LED light bars I put on my tractor cause RF issues as well. 2 different brands & sizes. The front only causes maybe a 75% loss in signal when I flip it on (radio is pretty much useless) & the rear a 25% loss in signal.

LEDs run at 1.8 to 3.3v DC generally. So generally every power source needs a power supply to convert things from 110v AC or 12-24v DC. These days it's all switch mode power supplies. They switch on & off really fast to lower the voltage. Generally cheap & efficient, but all that switching is at RF frequencies & can be as noisy as the flourescent ballasts.

That's my fear regarding converting my lights. If I go that route I'll only convert a couple and test the results.

 

[ovrszd]

Yesterday afternoon I installed a coax and remote antenna outside on one opener.

With lights on I can now open that door outside with a range of 20ft. Opener without remote still requires touching the glass.

With lights off I saw a little improvement in regards to blind spots where the opener with antenna has less issues.

With lights off driving toward door end of shop I have a range of 300ft on both doors with and without external antenna.

 

[Ford850]

Yesterday afternoon I installed a coax and remote antenna outside on one opener.

With lights on I can now open that door outside with a range of 20ft. Opener without remote still requires touching the glass.

With lights off I saw a little improvement in regards to blind spots where the opener with antenna has less issues.

With lights off driving toward door end of shop I have a range of 300ft on both doors with and without external antenna.

Did you connect the coax internally or externally to the opener? The instructions I posted above for internal/direct connection was to overcome interference more than just the extended range, and the interference most people were posting about was due to LED light installations. I think LEDs stand a very good chance of having similar interference, so I think you're on the right track with the coax extension.