Question about drawbar and pins for attachments

[ovrszd]

Along with other's advice, your 7060 won't last long enough to ruin the drawbar pulling a 2whl trailer.

 

[3Lfarms]

If the trailer is a clevis type hitch going over your tractor drawbar you do not want a tight fitting draw pin.
As your tractor goes across rough ground and tips a bit sideways and your trailer tips a bit the other way the looseness in
that pin hole is what allows that otherwise something else will have to bend or twist.
Yes, after many hundreds of hours draw bars will get elongated, thats what welders are made for, :dance1:

This right here. ^^^
Unless your trailer has some sort of universal to allow for up and down articulation, loose is better. Yes, it will bang around and make some noise, but that is better than breaking the trailer hitch.

 

[inode]

Just put trailer tongue in place use pin that will fit draw bar.... Little sloppy but will work....

Trying to bush the tongue smaller will be exercise in futility unless you can weld bushing in place... Or drill one hole on either side of center hole (main) for larger pin, a couple of inch offset while towing (on the farm) is not going to hurt anything...

Dale

The hole in the horst tongue is smaller than the drawbar's hole.

Thanks for all of the input.

 

[mcfarmall]

LOL...I had to Google Horst Hitch! I never knew there was a formal name for a clevis style hay wagon hitch but I learned something new today.

Find a pin to fit the "Horst Hitch" on your trailer. Center the trailer hitch over the M7060 drawbar hole. Insert pin through the assembly. I don't think the owners of Horst Header wagons use bushings on their pins.

Yeah, it's a little sloppy but it would take decades to cause any measurable elongation of the drawbar hole.

If you were pulling a chisel plow equipped with a "Horst Hitch" encountering heavy draft loads...it would still take decades to elongate the drawbar hole.

Your trying to make a Swiss watch out of a manure spreader.

Seriously...you are way overthinking this!

 

[oosik]

mcfarmall is spot on. The ONLY reason I have bushed my drawbar/Horst hitch is to cut down on the forward/back surges as I transport a heavy load. It can be rather unnerving. Otherwise - I could live to the age of Methuselah, drag heavy loads with my farm wagon every day and not expect any elongation of the hole in the drawbar or Horst hitch. The steel thickness is just too great for this to happen. And, if after decades of use it elongates slightly - so what. It will still be an exceeding strong hitch system.

 

[inode]

Fellas,
Thanks for all of the information. I may be way overthinking this. I'm pretty **** about my equipment, especially something I've put this kind of money down on. To add, Purdue put out a great article on hitch safety which really opened my mind (see below). I should have also mentioned that my farm is really hilly on the front side and I'll be cutting wood in these areas. I plan on using the trailer to hold firewood going up and down these hills. Thanks again for the info.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-94.pdf

 

[ruffdog]

Fellas,
Thanks for all of the information. I may be way overthinking this. I'm pretty **** about my equipment, especially something I've put this kind of money down on. To add, Purdue put out a great article on hitch safety which really opened my mind (see below). I should have also mentioned that my farm is really hilly on the front side and I'll be cutting wood in these areas. I plan on using the trailer to hold firewood going up and down these hills. Thanks again for the info.

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-94.pdf

That was a good read. Through my life I have seen many of those funky farm drawbar connections. The pictures of failures were interesting.

 

[LouNY]

Interesting article from Purdue.
I do wonder about some small bits of it.
They seemed to me to be stressing the absolute shear strength and while that is important,
years ago (a great many) one of the concerns about the high grade pins especially in the
3/4 inch and one inch which where the most common was the grade 8's had a higher strength
but they gave no warning of impending failure while a 5 would bend and let you know it was time for a new pin
when an 8 failed it broke with no previous warning.
Back in the 60's making draw pins was part of ag shop, for a while hex shaped hardened steel was popular
till we started seeing shear failures and then it was back to mild steel round stock.
That said for most of the tractors and equipment used and discussed here it may not be much of a factor.
One other thing the use of clips spring or cotter key to secure draw pins is an interesting subject.
If drawing thru tall grasses weeds and stubble it will remove them quite often, twisted #9 wire will not be
removed by it, often just running the wire in and making a long U with will be more secure then a clip. :2cents:

 

[mcfarmall]

Inode, please post pictures of your final solution to the original problem when you get everything settled. Would be interesting for all.