Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Please send me the $45.00 and just THINK you burned them. You will get the same results and BOTH of us will be happy!
SR
Creosote reducing logs in a wood stove
- Thread starter TNhobbyfarmer
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SR
CobyRupert
Super Member
Does that 6' stick up above the roof line and the rest of the chimney is interior?
I've always heard/thought that a cold chimney, or the cold part, will build up creosote more. Which makes sense if creosote is condensing out of the smoke more when it contacts the cooler temperature.
(IMHO) It's not just about having a hot fire, it's also about having a "hot/warm" chimney.
cqaigy2
Super Member
That's probably a good point about the chimney being hot enough, it would seem that it would be less likely for the creosote/moisture to condense out onto the surface.
This is absolutely true. While the product I posted above does help reduce the amount that builds up, the most important thing is to keep a hot fire burning. Not too hot or you are wasting BTUs up the flue, but once you learn that sweet spot the fires burn better and cleaner. I used a simple infrared laser thermometer to monitor the temps on my wood stove and flue, keeping the metal flue around 225 - 250 degrees or above where it enters the masonry chimney. That alone makes a drastic improvement compared to the "low and slow" trap I fell into when first using my stove.
My SS stove pipe liner is only a few inches above the chimney block. I cant have a hot fire when outside temp is 25*-45* it would 100* in the house, so my stove is on low during those days, but right now it's cranking with outside temp of 10* and there's no mosquitoes. Creosote never built up on my SS pipe til I used a steel brush. And how does one get a hot chimney without a hot fire?
PILOON
Super Star Member
I heated with wood for 14 years.
Every 3-4 weeks I'd crank up the heat and let her get real hot and I'd hear the creosote break loose. EG, I would be baking loose any creosote.
(old timer's way of doing it)
When I did brush rarely was their any soot or creosote.
One observation I can make is any air leaks, say at the joints in insulated flue pipes, will be the area where creosote will form. I have seen a washer like ring of crisp creosote exactly at the joints of 2 pipes and since observing that I always taped all flue joints with heat resistant aluminum tape. Works!
Notice they sell flue thermometers and the reason is that U must keep temps up in order to prevent creosote build up.
Too cool and it will condense and build up as a sticky tar like mass (and later catch fire).
Every 3-4 weeks I'd crank up the heat and let her get real hot and I'd hear the creosote break loose. EG, I would be baking loose any creosote.
(old timer's way of doing it)
When I did brush rarely was their any soot or creosote.
One observation I can make is any air leaks, say at the joints in insulated flue pipes, will be the area where creosote will form. I have seen a washer like ring of crisp creosote exactly at the joints of 2 pipes and since observing that I always taped all flue joints with heat resistant aluminum tape. Works!
Notice they sell flue thermometers and the reason is that U must keep temps up in order to prevent creosote build up.
Too cool and it will condense and build up as a sticky tar like mass (and later catch fire).
PILOON
Super Star Member
Low is when the creosote will want to build up.
Use your electric heat on those days. (LOL, or open the windows)
Other option is when it gets real cold 'crank up the heat' and bake the creosote off but don't wait 'till there is a whole lot.
They sell magnetic thermometers that U place on the stove pipe a few feet above the stove.
Maintaining the flue temps in the green range will greatly minimize creosote build up.
CalG
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"Converting" the acidic, type III creosote with alkaline materials added to the fire box, is not an urban myth.
The change over from acidic to base results in a more brittle and easily brushed deposit.
I use the "crystals", a few tablespoons on a medium fire. The stuff WORKS! I've witnessed the change. (all to the good).
I know nothing about the logs, I've never used them.
The change over from acidic to base results in a more brittle and easily brushed deposit.
I use the "crystals", a few tablespoons on a medium fire. The stuff WORKS! I've witnessed the change. (all to the good).
I know nothing about the logs, I've never used them.
Looking4new
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I do the same.
I burn seasoned Birch, Maple, Oak and Beech. Beech is mainly for '
overnighters'. In the mornings I have a bed of large hot coals to start my next days' fire with.
I also burn it hot.
The chimney sweep comes once a year and gets maybe a cup of creosote out of two chimnies.
OP
TNhobbyfarmer
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Just out of curiosity, why beech for overnighters? I assume it lasts longer? I have lots of beech on my place but have traditionally used more hickory, oak, ash, as go to wood. Maybe I should consider using more beech?
