Wow it's cold!

tiogajoe · Jan 21, 2019

I started my tractor this afternoon and let it warm up for about 30 minutes. I keep it in a 3 sided pole barn with no electric. It started ok after a single cycle of the glow plugs. The hydraulics where very slow even after letting the tractor run. I took it easy moving the FEL until things got warmed up. I'm using rotella t6 in the engine and chevron thf 1000 in the hydraulics. I'm considering changing the hydro fluid to synthetic? It just sounds like the tractor didn't respond well. I only have a 100 hours on the hydro oil. I'm considering Triax utto supreme or Utto xl. Do synthetic or synthetic blends make a big difference? Replacing the fluid is cheap if its better on your machine?

iflywhatevr · Jan 21, 2019

At 50 hours I swapped mine for SUDT2. Made a big difference in my 2017 CK3510 HST cab.

jbrumberg · Jan 21, 2019

There are plugin 110V thermostatically controlled metal fuel and hydraulic filter pre-heaters that perform as advertised at preheating fuel and hydraulic filters where many cold temperature "challenges" originate.

oosik · Jan 21, 2019

If for some idiotic reason I'm out there in the cold with the tractor - I let it warm until I see the temp needle move. Then I'm off and running at about 1800 RPM. No load, no strain on the tractor. It just gets up to operating temps quicker by simply driving it to where I'll be working.

And, Yes, the hydraulics are slow when the tractor isn't yet warmed up.

I use the recommended plain old dino-oil. Both for the engine and hydraulics.

Still just fine after ten years. Dino oils/fluids worked just fine on my previous tractor for the 27 years I had it.

CMV · Jan 21, 2019

Not that it gets all that cold here or if it does I have no good reason to be out.....but...if just sitting idling to warm up, does that do anything to warm the hydraulic fluid? Or does that only start warming up once you start moving (HST) ?

No idea about the fluids you're thinking but Kubota SUDT2 is supposed to perform well in cold. I know otherwise it performs great in the 2 HST machines I put it in (neither Kubotas).

coldsteelva · Jan 22, 2019

I have found with my HST that if you start it up and set it between 1000-1500 RPMs and engage the PTO (low and slow) that you can get all the fluid to circulate and warm better than just idling. When you're ready to move - disengage PTO, rev to 2000 RPM and then actuate all hydraulics (if present) a few times to move the cold fluid from the cylinders and replace it with the now warmed main hydro fluid. Then go to work.

tiogajoe · Jan 22, 2019

coldsteelva said:
I have found with my HST that if you start it up and set it between 1000-1500 RPMs and engage the PTO (low and slow) that you can get all the fluid to circulate and warm better than just idling. When you're ready to move - disengage PTO, rev to 2000 RPM and then actuate all hydraulics (if present) a few times to move the cold fluid from the cylinders and replace it with the now warmed main hydro fluid. Then go to work.

I've been letting it idle with the HST in neutral because it sound like the pump is working too hard? I will try the PTO to see how this works? Thanks.

Thomas · Jan 22, 2019

When it gets cold enough to freeze the balls on pool table gotta let the equipment warm up least 1500 rpm's...if doubt on fluid give your dealer call.

Amvcane · Jan 22, 2019

Tiogajoe, I feel that you are using the wrong hydro fluid for the ambient temps that you are operating in. If you only used the machine in the summer you would have no problem. That Chevron thf 1000 has a J20C rating (John Deere). Since you are operating in winter you should have a fluid with a J20D spec.
I had a J20C spec fluid in my Kioti and 318 for one winter. The 318, I would have to jack up the rear of the tractor up and run the Hst for 20 mins for the machine to be usable. Otherwise the engine would bog and stall when I tried to move. Fluid to thick. The Kioti would take 30 mins till I could start to work and another 20 mins till it was warmed up and operating normal. I could not lift the loader arms without the machine going into relief.
I changed the hydro fluids in all my machines to Kubota Super UTD2 and have had absolutely no problems with thick fluid during cold winter start-ups. I can now start any machine in the cold of winter and go right to work just like in the summer. It’s a little pricy but well worth it IMO.

tiogajoe · Jan 22, 2019

Amvcane said:
Tiogajoe, I feel that you are using the wrong hydro fluid for the ambient temps that you are operating in. If you only used the machine in the summer you would have no problem. That Chevron thf 1000 has a J20C rating (John Deere). Since you are operating in winter you should have a fluid with a J20D spec.
I had a J20C spec fluid in my Kioti and 318 for one winter. The 318, I would have to jack up the rear of the tractor up and run the Hst for 20 mins for the machine to be usable. Otherwise the engine would bog and stall when I tried to move. Fluid to thick. The Kioti would take 30 mins till I could start to work and another 20 mins till it was warmed up and operating normal. I could not lift the loader arms without the machine going into relief.
I changed the hydro fluids in all my machines to Kubota Super UTD2 and have had absolutely no problems with thick fluid during cold winter start-ups. I can now start any machine in the cold of winter and go right to work just like in the summer. It痴 a little pricy but well worth it IMO.

Think I could get away with just changing the fluid? I only have about a 100 hours on the filters and the fluid is still nice and clean?? I could change the filters this summer when its a lot warmer???