kUBOTA BX23S - wights, tire chains or ballast box ?

[atsah]

Two link spaced ladder chains are better then 4 link ladder chains,
they do not even start to come close to the Euro style.
I have used many styles of chains over the years the difference in ride and traction is simply unimaginable,
there is no comparison. It is a multitude increase over conventional. Once you use them you will not be happy with anything less.

We are talking about a SCUT, The ride of 2 link V-bar chains is smooth and I don't even notice I have chains on UNLESS I'm on hardtop. We used every kind of chain there is on all size tractors, we aren't talking about twitching logs of out of three foot of snow, for removing snow on a driveway they work perfectly and wont break the bank.

As far as the traction difference being unimaginable, that's a stretch..


I don't want to argue with you, I just want anyone that needs added traction for snow removal who maybe doesn't want or have a bunch of money to spend on chains to know they have cheaper options that will work for them..

The more weight the machine has the more effective the chain..

 

[LouNY]

I am not using a SCUT, however I have used 2 link spaced chains;
the difference between the 2 link and the Euro (aquiline talons) was immense, the talons where 3 times as effective as the bar reinforced 2 link style chains.
They ride smooth on pavement or frozen gravel or dirt.
On a 656 that we use to feed cows with the traction on frozen dirt is better then hard dry dirt roadways in the summer.

the Oliver 1550 utility with 2 link spaced ladder chains,


the 574 with talons, ( the 574 is about a 1000 to 1500 pounds lighter on the rear axle then the Oliver)


the 8050 with Talons rear, and OFA's front


Yes they do cost more, no question about it.
The greater traction is amazing as is the ride.
I also believe that they will do less damage to paved driveways as you are much less likely to spin with them.
And I also am not trying to argue but I have run every style of tire chain I can think of and have seen for ag tires,
from the old double ring to the newer Euro and most all in between, including skidder ring chains.
My sander truck is still on 2 link spaced ladder chains, because they work good enough and aren't broke yet,
also I haven't seen a studded Euro style for 235/85R16's.

 

[atsah]

I am not using a SCUT, however I have used 2 link spaced chains;
the difference between the 2 link and the Euro (aquiline talons) was immense, the talons where 3 times as effective as the bar reinforced 2 link style chains.
They ride smooth on pavement or frozen gravel or dirt.
On a 656 that we use to feed cows with the traction on frozen dirt is better then hard dry dirt roadways in the summer.

the Oliver 1550 utility with 2 link spaced ladder chains,
View attachment 593950

the 574 with talons, ( the 574 is about a 1000 to 1500 pounds lighter on the rear axle then the Oliver)
View attachment 593951

the 8050 with Talons rear, and OFA's front
View attachment 593952

Yes they do cost more, no question about it.
The greater traction is amazing as is the ride.
I also believe that they will do less damage to paved driveways as you are much less likely to spin with them.
And I also am not trying to argue but I have run every style of tire chain I can think of and have seen for ag tires,
from the old double ring to the newer Euro and most all in between, including skidder ring chains.
My sander truck is still on 2 link spaced ladder chains, because they work good enough and aren't broke yet,
also I haven't seen a studded Euro style for 235/85R16's.

No doubt there are better chains than 2 link V-bar but when we are talking about a 1500lb SCUT it isn't going to matter much, my SCUT will only push on the chains so far and then run out of weight. I have them on all four, my dog yard is hilly and is impossible to blow without all tires chained up.

They will scratch the payment if I'm not careful, any chain on a tractor that weight's 1500lbs is going to scratch payment if you're not careful..

 

[bigtiller]

Two link ladder chains is all my SCUT john deere 2305 needed to move snow. I used a front blower and a rear blade for years. For a short time I used just the loader. Wheel weights helped but it was so little help, I don't thing they are worth the money because they are pretty expensive. Weight on the 3pt helps but to much will cause the steering wheels to loose traction. So the best money spent for a 1500lb SCUT is 2-link ladder chains.

My opinion, been there did that

 

[LouNY]

OK, I debated with myself before I decided to post this.
If you haven't used the Euro style chains DON'T tell people that they are not much more effective as they are.
Is any type of chain better then bare rubber? Yes. But don't do people the disservice of telling them that ladder chains are any where near as effective on any size tractor as the Euro ones are. I have had the experience (Dam**d sure not the fun) of chaining tractors, cars, pickups and big trucks up many times in the snow and ice for over 50 years, from the East coast to the West. I even chained up in West Texas one day, on a 2wd Ford crewcab that was almost the only vehicle moving that day.

The Euro chain will out work any ladder chain on any weight vehicle,
they will also provide more safety and stability all while providing a better ride with less pavement damage.

If someone just can not afford them and can afford the ladder they are better then nothing.

On the real small SCUT's I wouldn't be surprised that diamond pattern pickup chains will do better then ladders,
such as this type, preferably with studs;
Diamond Blue
or the atv chains,
Free Shipping | Studded UTV Tire Chains | 7329259EF | Earthforce Parts

 

[atsah]

I have in fact used the euro chains on several different tractors over the years and they work great. There is more people using 2 link V-bar chains than any other..

For some reason now and again there will be a thread on a subject that some people THINK they know more about than anyone else and there way of doing things is better than anyone else's..

I never said the chains you recommend aren't good chains, what I said was there are other options that will work for far less money. I do not agree that the euro would work better on a light weight machine, if you don't have the weight to drive chains into ice, you are going to scratch it if you're not careful..

I chained more skidders with chains worth more than a lot of tractors than I care to mention.

With that said, I like reading you're posts, I think you're a well rounded guy, I just think there are other options that will work for people that aren't on you're have to have chain list. That's all, no big deal..

 

[Jstpssng]

Getting back to the OP's question, if he hasn't left the building; as others have said, tire chains are really the only thing which will help on ice. Rear ballast of some type is also a necessity, our tractors were designed to be used with the weight of an implement on back. Your box blade will help, and I like it better than a mower because it doesn't stick out to the rear as far. You can also add more weight by putting chain, concrete blocks or other weight to it.

Here's how you can tell if your tires are loaded, I stole the quote from another thread on the subject.

If the tires are loaded, have the valve stem at 6 O'clock position and push in the core like you are going to check pressure. If loaded you will get liquid come out instead of air. Loaded tires are usually filled to the 10 O'clock position or about 75%. This is done so the liquid in the tires is above the wheel. A wheel submerged in liquid ballast cannot rust with no oxygen. If you want to check loaded tire pressure, have the valve stem at 12 O'clock position. then you can add or removed air as needed.

My tires on my 3301 aren't and likely never will be loaded, but I am looking at rear wheel weights which I can take off if necessary. My 550 lb logging winch went on just before the first snowstorm and won't come off until after the snow is gone. On the family's L2800 downstate we have a 400 lb concrete counterweight. They may not work as well as some, but they work well for what I need. My tractors are considerably heavier than yours though, which makes a big difference in traction.

 

[tmcj]

Any chains are gonna be better than no chains, and basically get the best that you can afford. I put the Aquiline MPC chains on my Max26xl and it made an incredible difference for snow or ice and they do ride pretty smooth on hard surfaces. I use the FEL and a 7' blade on the rear.
If I may ask, what limitations were you referring to for installation of chains?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Consider suitcase weights for a SCUT. I made a removable bar on my QH to hang them on. Can add up to 500#, 50# at a time. I can still lift 50# with a grunt. I have a plan to do same kind of removable bracket on the front but haven't go to it yet. We don't get as much snow & ice down here so not a lot of experience on ice, know from operating other vehicles that chains really help on ice except for on thing, chains on 4 wheels you also have 4 ice skates under you if you lose control. Chains were always the last resort unless required by law which is always debatable.

Ron

 

[doneill127]

I知 on my 4th winter with my Mahindras Max about 2700 lbs with FEL and rear blade. Never had any problem clearing the driveway or around the barn without any chains. I do have turf tires which I think is better in snow than R1 or R4 tires. Think I only have had to engage the diff lock once