POLE BARN QUESTIONS

M5farms · Mar 5, 2019

HAPPYNC said:
That's good to hear. I have a 12 inch auger bit but thought about renting an 18 or 24 inch and digging 48 inches deep. I was looking to do the same on the lean-to with the 6x6 posts. It's a 24 ft lien-to.

Is yours in Florida? If so what type of soil do you have? Mine is red clay but I have a good bit of "potato rocks".

sandy loam , Im in panhandle . Its easy to open the hole up with a pair of hole diggers after you bore the 12" hole

HAPPYNC · Mar 5, 2019

I feel safer with the 8x8 on the barn and 6x6 on the lean-to. I'm starting to think disturbing less soil and using a 18" hole would be better for me. An 8x8 (7.5x7.5) is around 10.5 corner to corner so that would give me almost 4 inches of concrete around the corners.

cycle_gator · Mar 6, 2019

I am building a 30x50x15.5 corner posts are 6x6, sides are 6x8. Posts are on 10’ centers, purlins are 2x8’s. Plans were engineered for open sides with 50 psf snow load and 80 mph wind load. Posts are set 4’ deep on top of 6” of concrete in 2 ft diameter holes. Posts also have uplift plates installed.

Zebrafive · Mar 7, 2019

I would look into laminated posts. Below ground portion treated, rest untreated.

zzvyb6 · Mar 7, 2019

I have 8x8 treated posts on the front of my 30 x 50 3 sided 'shed'. I added 4 sliding doors that needed some support by the posts because they started to warp. I strapped some highway U channel on the sides to keep them straight. The only weight on them is from the headers and the T-111 framed doors.

HAPPYNC · Mar 7, 2019

cycle_gator said:
I am building a 30x50x15.5 corner posts are 6x6, sides are 6x8. Posts are on 10’ centers, purlins are 2x8’s. Plans were engineered for open sides with 50 psf snow load and 80 mph wind load. Posts are set 4’ deep on top of 6” of concrete in 2 ft diameter holes. Posts also have uplift plates installed.

These are engineered with 20 psf snow load which is within spec for my area. Even though they're treated posts, I planned to give the buried portion an oil bath before sinking them.

Zebrafive said:
I would look into laminated posts. Below ground portion treated, rest untreated.

I've ordered the 8x8x20s. $152 each, 10% discount, and then I had another 6% off card so total per post was $137.27 with tax. Expensive and probably overkill but once and done. I wouldn't even know where to get a laminated post around here.

zzvyb6 said:
I have 8x8 treated posts on the front of my 30 x 50 3 sided 'shed'. I added 4 sliding doors that needed some support by the posts because they started to warp. I strapped some highway U channel on the sides to keep them straight. The only weight on them is from the headers and the T-111 framed doors.

What is highway U channel?

Barnbuilder · Mar 10, 2019

With a 8x8 you better be dead on with a 18" hole. Post that large is a PITA to move if its off. I would go 4' deep especially if you have 15' walls. Out east it might be pretty easy with very little rock. I usually bore 24" even with 6x6. I would think for an AG building you wouldn't need a permit. In Union county if you call it a "barn" you don't need one. Head of Inspections Dept told me that, I couldn't believe it.

HAPPYNC · Mar 24, 2019

I'm from the Unionville area. Live in Stanly County now. Not everyone of course but in general, dealing with inspections over here is a nightmare. I'm covered under Ag though but I felt better with the overkill considering my wall height. I can rent an 18" or 24" bit for about $35/day and a 1 ft extension for $10 if I need it. I considered drilling deeper, pouring a footer then setting the posts on that. I can cut the tops off to level up as needed.

The problem with going to a 24 inch hole is it actually doubles the amount of concrete and of course cost. Neither is really enough for a concrete truck and that's an awful lot of 80 lb bags. As for moving it, I planned to put a sling around one end to be able to move it with the tractor forks until I can them braced.

Barnbuilder · Mar 25, 2019

The weight of the concrete helps with the uplift especially if it's an open shed. You might bore a hole and stick the post in to see how much wiggle room you have before you get started.