Help me select, build, and/or problematize a drag harrow

[Freep]

Also: What about a narrow-ish spike tooth harrow? How would that compare to the field cultivator in terms of how it left the ground after an initial pass?

 

[jeff9366]

In terms of moles, my primary objection is the effort and mess of eliminating them. I've heard it's a never-ending battle, and have also heard that their soil aeration has some useful properties. My emphasis on a way to harrow the land while doing other stuff (i.e., mowing) seemed like a good way to combine efforts without worrying about the moles themselves.

That said, the field cultivator certainly seems like it would help with the leveling aspect of what I'm interested in, if then dragged afterwards to smooth things out. I worry that it would soften the soil sufficiently, though... it's often fairly soft here and I relish the areas that are at least somewhat packed. Perhaps the field cultivation might be something I can do in pieces as an adjunct to my general smoothing work. Ideally, I'd like my daughter to be able to run around this summer in at least some parts of the property.

Does the field cultivation discourage burrowing animals because it loosens the soil and makes tunneling less effective? If so, how deep does it have to cultivate?

Have you had time to read the thread link in Post #6? Field Cultivator tines are quite narrow. My Field Cultivator frame is 66" wide. The total area of the tines pulled through the soil is twenty square inches.

You aerate when soil is somewhat dry, so it fractures and sets fractured. Then air and rain can penetrate. If gooey, fissures will close and less/little benefit results.

Max depth for soil aeration.


Burrowing animals hate having their tunnels destroyed. If you run tines through the tunnels every couple of weeks for awhile, the gophers will move out. Best to cultivate a few inches deeper than the tunnels. Some of your unevenness is probably collapsed, decayed tunnels.

 

[jeff9366]

What about a narrow-ish spike tooth harrow? How would that compare to the field cultivator in terms of how it left the ground after an initial pass?

Spring protected Field Cultivators are strong ground contact implements.
Chain Harrows are strong ground contact implements.

Spike Tooth Harrows are rigid. They are for leveling flat ground prior to sowing very fine seed. (Tobacco, Radish)
A Spike Tooth Harrow will not maintain integrity in field conditions.

Ground working ag implements are normally classified as Primary Tillage (Field Cultivator, Moldboard Plow) or Secondary Tillage (Chain Harrow, row crop Cultivator). Spike Tooth Harrow would be Tertiary Tillage, if such a category existed.

 

[Freep]

OK. I am beginning to envision a sequence here that could address both the burrowing mammals and my primary interests. First, a field cultivator pass, with wide V shanks while dry, letting it dry out for a few days; then a heavy chain harrow, possibly flipped onto the less aggressive side, if not solely, then on subsequent passes. A frame constructed of heavy timber might also be used at some point in-between these stages if needed as well.

Adding a boom pole, it looks like the bill may threaten the $2k mark, but it does sound like a compelling combo. I'll revisit the old field cultivator thread and peruse it more thoroughly.

 

[jeff9366]

I'll revisit the old field cultivator thread and peruse it more thoroughly.

Harry Ferguson, an Anglo-Irishman, invented the tractor Three Point Hitch, which entered the USA when Henry Ford licensed the production rights from Ferguson in 1939. Ferguson invented/adapted implements for his Three Point Hitch. The Field Cultivator, which Ferguson termed a "tiller" and is also known as an All Purpose Plow, was one of the four original Three Point Hitch tractor implements. Very minor changes in eighty years.

The other three original 3-Pt. implements were a Moldboard Plow, a towed Disc Harrow and a row crop cultivator.

 

[Egon]

How to move soil depends on type, distance and equipment. On smaller area’s the tractor bucket works fine but is slow. If possible fill the bucket going downhill.

Cultivation will remove burrowing animals. You might want to looke into Diamond Harrows. They will work for smoothing mole hills and loose dirt. As stated before Sod is not work friendly as you will not be planning it or scrapping it in small amounts.

 

[airbiscuit]

Here is a right brained thought ...

 

[Freep]

This thread has expanded significantly from its original purpose, however, an update!

I ordered a 4x4, 129 pound drag harrow. Today I purchased, used, and very old, a boom pole and field cultivator. As luck would have it, both are branded as 'Ferguson' implements.

 

[jeff9366]

I hope you will inform us of your progress after a month or two employing your new FERGUSON implements.



LINK: FERGUSON SWEEPS AND SHOVELS:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/360864-ferguson-sweeps-shovels.html?highlight=

 

[grandall4]

Here is a right brained thought ...

I agree. Core aerating is your most effective route. It won't be a one-and-done, but it will relieve compaction and move a very small amount of soil without damaging what you have.