Question on Pallet Forks

[dalola]

Who needs pallet forks when you can sling'em around? NOT the way I'll be doing it normally, but it works for now to position a few a short distance. Low (just off the ground) and slow. Worked fine. Yea, I know the one strap is in too far, but it was the first one as a test. The other two worked fine also. Under the bucket instead of out in front might be better though.

Pallets are cut in half to make them easier to stack with irregular firewood, so there's a lot less weight to begin with.

Very clever! You could throw a few more in the bucket!

 

[mpsmith60]

I got a set like these from Titan through Amazon rated for 1500 lbs, which was fine for my needs and inexpensive. They've been really handy to have. For heavy loads, make sure you use chains around your bucket and load binders to tighten them to keep from bending the lower lip of your bucket. A drawback of the clamp-on type is that you loose a lot of lift capacity since they are further out from the loader arms than SSQA forks would be.

More recently I got a set of SSQA forks which I love because change out is a snap and I have full lift capacity. If you don't need them often, and your loads are light, clamp-ons are an inexpensive way to go.

I started out with the same Titan forks and they served me well until I got a set of quick attach forks. Even though my front-end loader has a quick attach coupler, I wasn't sure I wanted to spend the big bucks on a set of quick attach pallet forks so I opted to start with some very affordable clamp-on forks from Titan, purchased through Amazon. I quickly discovered just how useful pallet forks can be and bought a set of quick attach forks about six months later.

If you are considering buying clamp on pallet forks, you might want to watch this video on the pros and cons of clamp ons as well as tips on using them:

The clamp on forks were definitely worth having until I got the quick attach forks.

 

[k0ua]

Who needs pallet forks when you can sling'em around? NOT the way I'll be doing it normally, but it works for now to position a few a short distance. Low (just off the ground) and slow. Worked fine. Yea, I know the one strap is in too far, but it was the first one as a test. The other two worked fine also. Under the bucket instead of out in front might be better though.

Pallets are cut in half to make them easier to stack with irregular firewood, so there's a lot less weight to begin with.


View attachment 597471


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Hey, it worked and was pretty clever and center of gravity was kept low and safe.

 

[Diggin It]

So, I sprung for a carry all, but came up with a couple of new problems. First, the 'forks' are wider than some of the pallets I have. Guess I'll continue to sling those for now.

Other thing is that the front bottom corners catch on the bottom slats of pallets unless you're dead level and square. Only thing that comes to mind is to cut or grind an angle on them (red line in picture). If I do that, it's non-returnable. Anybody have any other ideas?




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[California]

A couple of comments on buying clamp-on forks:

* Get the optional adjustable-length bar that goes across from one fork to the other. It prevents the forks from turning sideways.

* If you have a small bucket, measure the depth of the 'throat' that clamps on the bucket. I got a set of forks with the second YM186D that bumped the back of the bucket before engaging fully. (Sold those forks for what I had paid for a previous set).

* I see forks on Cragslist at second-tier tractor dealers that are priced double what I paid for the same forks listed on Amazon and shipped from the manufacturer. Shop around!

* Three-point forks for the back of the tractor are handy. I built a set after studying the TSC version. I can back into it with the QH, pick it up, and go. I use this far more than putting on the front forks. Photo. Photo2.

 

[Xfaxman]

So, I sprung for a carry all, but came up with a couple of new problems. First, the 'forks' are wider than some of the pallets I have. Guess I'll continue to sling those for now.

Other thing is that the front bottom corners catch on the bottom slats of pallets unless you're dead level and square. Only thing that comes to mind is to cut or grind an angle on them (red line in picture). If I do that, it's non-returnable. Anybody have any other ideas?

View attachment 603648


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A hydraulic top link is almost a necessity for picking up pallets.

Since you don't have QA, I would return it and get an adjustable pallet fork: 3pt adjustable pallet forks - Image Search

 

[Diggin It]

A hydraulic top link is almost a necessity for picking up pallets.

Since you don't have QA, I would return it and get an adjustable pallet fork

Are you offering to pay the difference? Lowest cost I can find is $300 and EA wants over $800 (why do people buy their overpriced stuff?)

For $300+, I'll go back to tossing wood chinks in the loader bucket.

 

[dragoneggs]

Are you offering to pay the difference? Lowest cost I can find is $300 and EA wants over $800 (why do people buy their overpriced stuff?)

For $300+, I'll go back to tossing wood chinks in the loader bucket.

Because some of us are lazy.

 

[AchingBack]

Because some of us are lazy.

And lazy people get more done in less time. Which is why we have more time to relax.

 

[jjp8182]

And lazy people get more done in less time. Which is why we have more time to relax.

Yep, I figure if I work both smarter and harder I'll get done in far less time than people who only do one or the other..... which is big reason why I bought a tractor in the first place