Choosing a Tranny

[dglambert]

... I bit the bullet and bought a JD X590 with a K72 transmission. Serviceable, with a locking diff, I’ve had no issues in the three years we’ve owned it. My favorite feature of the X590 is the fuel injected motor because I know that if I’m away on a business trip, my wife just has to turn the key and it starts just like a car. No choke or carburetors to mess with, starts every time, hot or cold.

Glad to hear good things about the K72 -- I believe the K66 is also fairly well-regarded?

If there's one thing Tuff Torq seems prone to doing, it's the all-in-one tranny/rear-end that seems to drive up replacement cost if anything ever goes wrong. I've seen hydrostats from other makers that seem much more reasonably-priced for replacement. I guess when all is said & done, if the transmission is stout enough not to need replacing in the first place, it's a moot point, but I'd by lying if I didn't consider replacement cost a factor at this point.

 

[dglambert]

I have a 2010 Deere X300 with the K46 and do everything you want to do with no problems after 335 hours. But I have changed the K46 oil 3 times now with 5W50 synthetic motor oil and it still pulls like new. The K46 gets a bad rap on the forums, usually only people with problems post. Tuff Torque has produced over 6 million K46's and you hardly hear from the ones running without problems. Biggest help is replacing the 10W30 standard motor oil Deere specified with 5W50 Synthetic to help it last. Here I wrote a post on changing the K46 oil K46 oil change with pictures. I say you run your LA till it dies.

I've already done an oil change to 5W-50, and just recently replaced the springs in the charge pump & motor. While this helped a bit, the transmission still tires really quickly. I wind up mowing in shifts so the transmission can cool off again and regain its drive. I'm done with the K46, I believe.

 

[dglambert]

I have an X-300 with over 1,000 hours. It was not properly maintained by the PO. One of the first things I did was change hydro oil. That means dropping it, inverting it, draining, the turning back upright, filling, and reinstalling. Alternately, you can remove, take the bottom plate off and drain that way. Not something most people want to do yearly. There are instructions out there on how/where to drill holes and install drain plugs, but I didn't do that. It helped, but it's still weak, moreso once it gets hot.

As it was explained to me elsewhere, that level of machine is a lawn cutter, intended for urban or suburban lawns that are reasonably level. They are not intended for work. They are not intended for steeper slopes. They are not intended to pull things other than wheeled carts.

OP needs to be looking for a GT, Garden Tractor. They have more substantial transmissions and are designed to do more of the tasks outlined.



Yes, you want a Hydro, unless you want to be shifting gears every few minutes doing routine tasks.

All hydros 'wheeze'. That's the sound of fluid being moved under high pressure. Some do it louder than others. Some move uphill slower than others, but are capable of pulling more weight.

Locking differentials will help in situations where one wheel spins. I'm not sure it's a sign of a higher end transmission.

I've seen cases where the wheel bolts on to a hub, but the hub slips onto a shaft with a key, so no, not necessarily.

Do research, check specs, avoid lower ends transmissions for what you want to do. Look for a GT, Garden tractor, not an L (lawn) or similar. The lower end Big Box store riders may have an E or D instead of an L. A Garden Tractor will likely be $2500 minimum and can go up to $7500 or more. A $1500-$2000 rider will have a lower end transmission.

As far as any kind of bucket on the front, you need to be concerned about front suspension and how the wheels are mounted. Lower end grass cutters have a simple shaft, bushing and pin type mount with a tie rod for steering control. Also, the front portions of the frames are usually stamped and folded sheet metal. They will not handle a loaded bucket well. .

There has been some discussion here about a Husqvarna model but I can't remember the number, something 354 I think.. Also the Cub XT3 has been mentioned.

Thanks - in hindsight, yes, I want a GT, not an LT. I hadn't realized there was such a difference in build quality. Too bad about the locking diff and/or bolt-hub being a good indicator of quality -- that sure would've helped with shopping.

I'm still not sure I'll wind up with an sort of loader at all, but a snowblower or blade would be really appealing, and I'll make a point to check out the front-end construction, too -- thanks.

I've seen reference to some good Husqvarna's and some that are less good -- same with Cubs. I've concluded that most of the manufacturers have some stout models and some less-so. I've heard good things about durability of older Wheel Horse's, too -- 312-8, for instance.

 

[dglambert]

You need at least a unit with a K58- preferably a K72 if you want to use a blade and or snow blower. I recommend the JD X500 series machines- they will do all you want ( plus much more) and last you the next 20/25 years - if you really want to spend some money you can always go the Cadillac of Garden tractors route-- the X7xx series

If you are going to be in property a while, feel pain once, suck it up and buy yourself an X590

It does seem like the X-series is pretty well-regarded. Alas, I don't see a Cadillac in my future. If I were going that route, Porsche & Lamborghini both used to make tractors. ;-)

 

[Topcat14]

It does seem like the X-series is pretty well-regarded. Alas, I don't see a Cadillac in my future. If I were going that route, Porsche & Lamborghini both used to make tractors. ;-)

The Cadillac is an X7xx series tractor - you learned a hard lesson never buy a used lawn tractor with a K46- but what did you think you could pay 500 bucks for a used La145( please tell me you paid no more than 500 bucks for 10 year old K46 lawn tractor) and be set for life? A decent new tractor is going to cost you 3-5K or more depending on what you want to do- a lightly used good tractor will cost 2-3K - cost of doing business. You could also buy a new unit with K46 for 1500 to 2000 and just understand that will only "buy" you 3 to 5 years. If that's too much, you have two choices buy a good walk behind mower( think of all the good exercise) or hire a lawn service- those are costs associated with a 1 acre plus lot.

 

[Thomas]

I like hyd. transmission since I do lot with front loader.
Only down side hyd. transmission you lose more horse power at pto.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

The Cadillac is an X7xx series tractor - you learned a hard lesson never buy a used lawn tractor with a K46- but what did you think you could pay 500 bucks for a used La145( please tell me you paid no more than 500 bucks for 10 year old K46 lawn tractor) and be set for life? A decent new tractor is going to cost you 3-5K or more depending on what you want to do- a lightly used good tractor will cost 2-3K - cost of doing business. You could also buy a new unit with K46 for 1500 to 2000 and just understand that will only "buy" you 3 to 5 years. If that's too much, you have two choices buy a good walk behind mower( think of all the good exercise) or hire a lawn service- those are costs associated with a 1 acre plus lot.

You forgot goats!

 

[dglambert]

The Cadillac is an X7xx series tractor - you learned a hard lesson never buy a used lawn tractor with a K46- but what did you think you could pay 500 bucks for a used La145( please tell me you paid no more than 500 bucks for 10 year old K46 lawn tractor) and be set for life? A decent new tractor is going to cost you 3-5K or more depending on what you want to do- a lightly used good tractor will cost 2-3K - cost of doing business. You could also buy a new unit with K46 for 1500 to 2000 and just understand that will only "buy" you 3 to 5 years. If that's too much, you have two choices buy a good walk behind mower( think of all the good exercise) or hire a lawn service- those are costs associated with a 1 acre plus lot.

Yes, I paid less than $500 for the LA145. I'll be honest, though, when I was shopping for a tractor, I had no idea that JD (or anyone else) would sell a tractor with a 20+ HP motor and no hope of ever using half that because the transmission was junk. Fast forward to this conversation, in which I'm trying to understand which transmissions are going to last over the long haul.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Yes, I paid less than $500 for the LA145. I'll be honest, though, when I was shopping for a tractor, I had no idea that JD (or anyone else) would sell a tractor with a 20+ HP motor and no hope of ever using half that because the transmission was junk. Fast forward to this conversation, in which I'm trying to understand which transmissions are going to last over the long haul.

The power is meant for cutting the grass, not pushing or pulling heavy loads.

My LT180 has the K46, yes it needs a tranny oil change/possibly new parts. It is a 2005 model, so it has worked for 14 years so far.

You might try heavier weight oil in the summer.

 

[Tomtint]

:laughing::laughing:
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I read the title of the thread and thought the OP may be in Las Vegas ..