FEL Build Questions.

Mowens · May 27, 2019

So I got the front bumper and supports made.

The questions I am pondering is should I close the ends on these things? The bottom main beam and uprights? I was planning not to simply so they couldn't hold water.

The other question was bushings. I see some each way is there a need for them really?

texasranger556 · May 27, 2019

I would box them to keep rodents and insects out.

For pivot joints most small machines have a pin inside a tube with a grease fitting, no removable bushings.

jaxs · May 27, 2019

texasranger556 said:
I would box them to keep rodents and insects out.

For pivot joints most small machines have a pin inside a tube with a grease fitting, no removable bushings.

^^^ +1 on both of what ^he said.
If you have trouble finding suitable tubes and pins,check with a bearing supply house. They carry bushing stock and pin stock by the foot so you cut to length. You want steel bushing stock so it can be welded into arms.

Mowens · May 27, 2019

Thanks I will make it happen.

The test fitting the arm seems to be moving fine straight up, down a good bit. My question is does the angle in the arm going down towards the ground seem reasonable it puts the bucket about two foot in front of the tractor. I know I can shorten the arms a couple inches in order to buy a greater angle but then I run the risk of not being able to open the hood.

Mowens · May 30, 2019

Lower portion of arm on.

So here's the question of the day. If I'm going to use a piece of Steel through the arm portion to act as a bushing, do I need to use anything on the uprights where the pin goes through or should I just not drill them to a larger size leave them tight to the pin diameter?

jaxs · May 30, 2019

Mowens; If I'm going to use a piece of Steel through the arm portion to act as a bushing said:
My wag is if each wall is 1/2" or more,bushings wouldn't be necessary but will extend life of components. ,I would drill holes slip fit to pin and weld short (1/2"to 3/4" long bushings on outside of upright walls. That provide's added bearing/support surface on longer pins. I must tell you I feel like a Boy Scout explaining survival tatics to a Navy Seal. I am totally awed by you and your brother's skill on this project.

texasranger556 · May 30, 2019

Welding tubing to spread the load will keep the pin holes round longer. You will also want to keep the pin from rotating against the non-greased part of the joint, either welding a tab to the pin for a bolt or drilling for a cross pin.

From a quick Google here is an example from a BX:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/w2ZGEnfZGXs/maxresdefault.jpg

Mowens · May 31, 2019

Thanks for the advice guys.

Jaxs really appreciate the compliment on the project. You all have been amazing with the advice and commentary.

My brother is a machinist and I do a lot of fabrication of my own. The hydraulics and FEL are well beyond my normal projects.