Two of the three bushings were worn out, and will be replaced.
The red bracket on the right is the foot rest mounting bracket. But, it also keeps the traction pedal shaft captive, and prevents it from sliding back and forth on the bushings. I will not be reinstalling this bracket because the foot rest will not be reinstalled. I wear boots while mowing usually and find the foot rest gets in the way and makes pedal actuation awkward. Instead I will use a split collar to keep the shaft from sliding.
Traction pedal shaft is built up with new bushings, reinstalled in the yoke, and held in place with the split collar. Used lots of grease on the rotating areas.
Shaft assembly is reinstalled in the support brackets.
Pedal installed in the yoke with the mounting pin flipped around. I also used a few washers between the pedal and the yoke to help tighten things up some more. All done, definitely much tighter and smoother...a success.
I hate it when you have a nice long post completed and it disappears into a cyber black hole...I digress.
Spent the evening installing an oil pressure gauge on the 325.
Pile of parts required. You will need a bspt fitting and about 9 of tubing. The included 6 of tubing is too short. I like these enclosed pods, they keep everything nice and neat.
T fitting built up. This will allow me to have the gauge and the low oil pressure buzzer still.
Tubing secured down the inside of the frame rail with zip ties.
Holes drilled in the steering tower for the tubing to exit and mounting the pod.
All done. This is probably overkill, but I get nervous not having a gauge and this will give me peace of mind oil pressure on my other 325 is around 65 psi while mowing.
Pulled everything apart because the rear actuator pin wasn稚 accepting grease, the front actuator pin had the zerk broke off, and the main bushing for the lift arm was worn.
Lift arm off for cleaning inspection. The pin is fine, I think the bushing is slightly worn as there is about 1/2 movement of the arm back and forth.
Had to drill and tap for a new zerk in the actuator. The old one has been gone for some time judging by the wear and rust inside. The rear zerk I was able to get working again once the pin was out and ran some grease through it. All good now.
Slapped everything back together with a few new cotter pins and extra washers/shims to tighten things up. It痴 not perfect, but definitely better.
Installed the new battery mat. These mats are impregnated with baking soda and neutralize the acid if the battery leaks.
The floor pan and side panel going in.
Everything buttoned up. I shimmed the side panel up with washers to allow the oil pressure line to sneak under there.
Tightened up the push arm cross bar bracket bolts. On every machine I have worked on, these bolts were either missing, or loose. Give yours a turn or two with the wrench, and prevent a future headache.
Whoops...I hate doing things twice, it’s one of my pet peeves.
I test fitted the control panel cover and discovered it was pinching the oil press gauge line. No other option but to tear everything apart and do it over.
I tore the floor pan and side cover off again. Decided to drill a hole and go through the frame. It’s just a thin piece of plate steel, not a structural member. Put everything back together, feeling annoyed.
Fuel tank going in. Rinsed it all out with fresh diesel. The fuel gauge float sounds a little sticky, so that may be an issue. It’s easy to get to though, so I can change it later if the need arises.
Tank is in and all plumbing and wiring is complete. Will need to purge air from the system before the first start. There is a bleed screw on the water separator, and the fuel injection pump.
Changed the anti freeze. Got about 5 quarts out, refilled with fresh 50/50 mix.
Starting to get nervous...must mean I’m close to being done.
This machine was missing the cover for the manual fuel shut off on the back of the Injection pump.
I ordered a new one thinking there was no way they would have any, but it was worth a shot. Sure enough, they had it in stock!
Got the rear seat bracket support, and the seat bracket installed. Dang thing almost broke my eye socket when it fell on my face while trying to bolt it in...ouch.
Got the tires put back on while waiting for the battery to charge on the trickle charger.
Battery is back in. There was a problem with the battery always going dead when I first got it. I have replaced the key switch, and removed some home made auxiliary lights, but that is it. I’m hoping that fixes the problem, or else I will be chasing electrical gremlins in short order.
Rear drive shaft cleaned up, greased, and ready to go in.
Installed with red Loctite on the bolts. It’s important to make sure the yoke ends are properly oriented before install to avoid premature failure of the universal shaft bearings.