any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[Xfaxman]

The parts box is empty...I guess I知 done.
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Installed with red Loctite on the bolts. It's important to make sure the yoke ends are properly oriented before install to avoid premature failure of the universal shaft bearings.

For those that don't know about drive shaft phasing, a picture:

 

[Asymair95]

Yup, that’s it. I never really understood the physics behind it, but that helps clear it up a little bit.

325d is alive again!



I first used a infrared thermometer to make sure all of the glow plugs were working. The front one was a little low, but it was warming, just not as much as the other two. I’d change it, but the ever present threat of breaking it off in there scares me.

Next, I bled the fuel system at both bleed screws.

10 seconds of glow plug later away she went.



I removed the plug from the front of the muffler.



With the engine running, block off the exhaust allowing any carbon to be blown out the forward plug. This will clean out the muffler.



I then checked the max rpm with the digital tach. It was a bit low, spec is 3200 plus or minus 50. Since I’m using this for mowing, that translates to slower blade speeds...not good.



After some careful adjustments, she is right on the money. Since there is a “no tamper cap” on the speed adjustment bolt, I use a file to file down the throttle stop just a hair. Not textbook by any means, but gets the desired result.

Tomorrow I will top off all fluid levels, re-grease the zerks, add some anti-chaffing wrap to the wires, and finish a few small odds and ends.

Next week, restoration of the mulching deck starts.

 

[Asymair95]

Well, that escalated quickly...

While checking fluid levels today I came upon an unpleasant surprise.



There is a small oil slick inside the radiator. When I bought it there wasn’t any there, and when I drained it, there wasn’t any. The engine was running when I picked it up.



There is no condensation or white cream on the oil cap. Maybe because it wasn’t run long enough yet?



Nothing odd on the radiator cap. There was a white crusty substance around the inside of the radiator cap neck, but it looked old to me, and possibly some kind of mineral deposits.

So now what? Tear it down? Run it for awhile?

There is no coolant loss that I can tell, and no white smoke from the exhaust.

 

[aczlan]

Drain, fill with 1 cup of Simple Green and water or an appropriate dose of CLR and water. Run for an hour to get it hot, drain and fill with straight distilled water. Run another hour, drain, put half the system capacity of unmixed antifreeze, and finish filling with distilled water.

Aaron Z

 

[Asymair95]

Aaron,
Does the drain and flushing just clean everything out?

 

[Asymair95]

Here is a video of a guy changing a head gasket on a Mitsubishi k3e engine. Our model engine is a k3d, but the internals are the same.

3 cyl Diesel Tractor Blown Head Gasket Repair Detailed *Part 1 of 2* - YouTube

 

[aczlan]

Aaron,
Does the drain and flushing just clean everything out?

Yes, if there is any residue, that will remove it.

Aaron Z

 

[Asymair95]

I have started the troubleshoot, thank you for the recommendations.

Yesterday, I over filled the radiator with distilled water to get rid of oil slick on top. I then started the engine and watched for bubbles. As the engine warmed up and the thermostat opened, the level dropped just slightly, and then came back up again. Temp stayed around 160. I did not see any bubbles during this process. I put the radiator cap on and drove around for about 30 min.



Today, I went back out and opened the radiator cap and this is what I saw...another oil slick.



I decided to drain the engine oil and look for water...I found none.



Next, I drained the coolant to look for oil...I found none. However, it was a bit dark, but this may be normal, considering the engine has 3500 hours on it.



I then refilled the radiator with 1 cup simple green, and distilled water to clean things out. I ran it for 45 min, and drained the radiator of the simple green mixture. Again, it came out a bit dark, but nothing crazy. In this pic you can see there is little to no smoke exiting the exhaust.

I’m going to refill with distilled water and run again to flush out the simple green. If after that I am still seeing oil I will try the pressure tester. I do not have one, so will need to borrow one or buy one.

Am I going down the right path here?

 

[Asymair95]

I have started the troubleshoot, thank you for the recommendations.

Yesterday, I over filled the radiator with distilled water to get rid of oil slick on top. I then started the engine and watched for bubbles. As the engine warmed up and the thermostat opened, the level dropped just slightly, and then came back up again. Temp stayed around 160. I did not see any bubbles during this process. I put the radiator cap on and drove around for about 30 min.



Today, I went back out and opened the radiator cap and this is what I saw...another oil slick.



I decided to drain the engine oil and look for water...I found none.



Next, I drained the coolant to look for oil...I found none. However, it was a bit dark, but this may be normal, considering the engine has 3500 hours on it.



I then refilled the radiator with 1 cup simple green, and distilled water to clean things out. I ran it for 45 min, and drained the radiator of the simple green mixture. Again, it came out a bit dark, but nothing crazy. In this pic you can see there is little to no smoke exiting the exhaust.

I知 going to refill with distilled water and run again to flush out the simple green. If after that I am still seeing oil I will try the pressure tester. I do not have one, so will need to borrow one or buy one.

Am I going down the right path here?

 

[Asymair95]

Checked a few more things while troubleshooting also.



With the engine running the alternator is putting out 14.4v. Which is in spec.



The fan belt wore out on me, so I went to Napa and replaced it with what was on there. This is what part number in the pic. I have tightened it up twice now though, and I’m starting to think it is the wrong size. For future reference , stick with oem.



While running the engine during the head gasket troubleshooting, I noticed some oil on the floor. This puddle was after about 20 min of running.



While running, you can see where the oil is leaking from the input seal into the hydraulic pump. My other machine has this same leak, so I may become an input seal expert pretty soon. I changed the oil in the hyd system to a high mileage synthetic 10w-40 hoping this would help with leaks. Guess not.



I also changed the hyd fluid for the third time. As you can see in the pic, there is still quite a bit of type F fluid contaminating the 10w-40. Manual says to never mix the two.