My Industrial Cabin Build

[EddieWalker]

Just glanced through your video.

I wrap blue tape around my drill bit so I know when to stop.

To tighten them, I have an adapter on my impact driver that allows me to use sockets.

Just put a deep 3/4 socket on it and you will be done in seconds!!!

Don't hammer the nut, you'll strip the threads. Turn the nut so it's passed the center part and hammer that center part that's sticking up above the nut.

I don't listen to sound, so I was able to get through 21 minutes of video in 2 minutes. Hope I didn't miss anything.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Those are great ideas. You only missed me realizing that I was supposed to not exceed 32 inch on center but I think I put a ticker in there for that. I also hit my head on the brace my son in law put up to hold the last wall. I am taller than he is and I am usually looking down when I walk, looking for things that will trip me up. It causes me to hit my head sometimes.

 

[Rustyiron]

But... Ya'll can have those wooden studs, I'm sticking to metal.

Yeah, "they" still are able to grow those metal studs nice & true, not so much on the wood sticks.:thumbsup:

 

[Scrambler82]

Yeah, "they" still are able to grow those metal studs nice & true, not so much on the wood sticks.:thumbsup:

I have thought about the metal studs for an upcoming outdoor project.

I built a house using wood, what else was there, or what else did I know about...nothing, I saw metal stud being used in an industrial build, seemed easy but I wasn't sold.

I am now thinking about an outdoors Fireplace... and a metal stud enclosure might work.

So back to Metal Studs inside the house, are there any special requirements using metal vs wood studs ?

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Ive only seen metal studs commercially in non load Bearing walls.

 

[Scrambler82]

Now that you say it, the walls that used the metal studs were the interior walls of a large metal building.

They should still work for an exterior gas fireplace... !

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I used metal studs for the roof of a pizza oven I built at my last house. The walls were brick and the dome was firebrick. I wouldn't build a house out of them. Now I might biuld a house out of the kind of iron you use to make steel buildings, like barns or warehouses. That would be one solid freaking house.

I spent most of yesterday's and a good portion of this morning pouring over every photograph I had from putting in the PEX tubing before the cement went in. If I had it to do over, I would have more pictures, and I would have put the drone up and taken lots of pictures from above.
I had lots of pictures from the first time I put the pex in, but after the wind storm came thru and destroyed it, I can only assume that I was morally beaten and didn't feel like taking pictures. I tore everything out, I dug out the gravel, fixed the waste plumbing put everything back together with new pex. I didn't want to take a chance that the old stuff would fail because of the stress it had been under. A major load bearing wall that is also a sheer wall has three points where pipes are under it, and were not under it the first time. I also didn't have pictures. Last night I asked my wife if she had pictures she had taken. She said no, but I asked her to look and 2 days before the cement was put in she took 5 pictures that game me all the info i needed to feel like I can drill the holes with a small degree of confidence. There is about 6 feet of pipe that runs under the wall, paralell to it, and directly under 1 half of it. I need to drill thru that floor plate and put a bolt every 32 inches. Tomorrow I plan to do it. And I better be right because if I am not I either decide to live without one 300 foot run of radiant heat, or get out the chisel point for the hammer drill and star busting away cement, in hopes that I can repair the pex tubing that I just chisled out of concrete., Neither of those idea brings me happiness. I contemplated building the wall our of 2x6 instead. After having my wife help me lift the wall in place I am glad I didn't. It was stupid heavy. It was also so hot today, that my wife had to go sit in the truck for an hour with the AC running. Here is my one sad wall. I plan to build 3 walls attatched to it tomorrow.

 

[dstig1]

I said it before and I will say it again - find a way to avoid/minimize drilling into that slab. You are just asking for it with the PEX lines in there. You noted this is a shear wall, so you may not have much choice, but perhaps a call to a lumberyard that has access to people who know these things might be able to come with options that do not require drilling or at least minimize it. And for non-load bearing walls, glue those suckers down with some PU construction adhesive!

 

[EddieWalker]

I ... or get out the chisel point for the hammer drill and star busting away cement, in hopes that I can repair the pex tubing that I just chisled out of concrete., Neither of those idea brings me happiness. I contemplated building the wall our of 2x6 instead. After having my wife help me lift the wall in place I am glad I didn't. It was stupid heavy....

Hope you don't have to, but if you do, the secret to opening up concrete with a small SDS or SDS Max is to first get a hole through the concrete with a drill bit, and then work on making it bigger with the chisel point. My biggest drill bit is a 1 1/4" that just melts through concrete. I'll drill a few holes to outline an area that I want to remove, and then start working my way in. Once you get a decent sized hole in the slab, it goes a lot faster.

Fixing PEX is easy, but frustrating. I've had to do it in the walls several times.

You don't need to have the headers in place to lift the walls. You can also save a little weight by not installing the jack studs. And you can also save more weight by only installing every other stud, or every third stud while it's on the ground and then installing the rest once its in place. I do this all the time when building tall walls, and 2x6 walls. It's just too heavy to lift by myself otherwise.

Nice job on the bracing. I like to run a board out from the bottom of the stud on it's edge and then attach my bracing to it so the overall look is more like a big triangle. But I'm sure your way works just as well.

 

[rScotty]

I said it before and I will say it again - find a way to avoid/minimize drilling into that slab. You are just asking for it with the PEX lines in there. You noted this is a shear wall, so you may not have much choice, but perhaps a call to a lumberyard that has access to people who know these things might be able to come with options that do not require drilling or at least minimize it. And for non-load bearing walls, glue those suckers down with some PU construction adhesive!

I absolutely agree. The course you are on now only has one ending - you end up hitting a Pex tube. I do not understand why you persist in drilling. FIND ANOTHER METHOD! Blind Drilling is just being dumb & stubborn.
Go ask a pro. Find an architect or engineer who does these things.
There have got to be lots of other methods. For example for interior walls you can build up glued members - or more concrete - and attach to that. For exterior you can do the same - or attach another member to the outside of the slab. Maybe use an "L" shaped metal piece. There are lots of ways to do this without blind drilling the slab.
rScotty