Thank you so much for your answers sir.
Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design
- Thread starter Exchanger
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Thank you so much for your answers sir.
Zebrafive
Super Member
I see no need for front guide wheels. I would rather have better designed skids and suggested they be round stock.
cglaser104
Platinum Member
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From a design standpoint I always appreciated brush hogs with round backs and minimally wasted see corners. I, too, prefer chain guards if they are a necessity for liability and such but no guards allows free and easy discharge.
-Quick Hitch compatibility is an absolute must these days which seems most effectively done with articulating support arm from toplink back towards the read of the unit.(could use chain too here i suppose)
-Softly pitch skids or even rounded skids would be great as I like to run my brush hog low where it does sometimes grab ground instead of skidding. (Maybe tube skids instead of L channel with bolt on flanges?)
-slip clutched PTO is the only way to go in my mind but it also requires the user to monitor and adjust it's function, sheer bolt is more dummy proof for those un-inclined to do maintenance.
-properly supported gearbox area to prevent unnecesary torsion on the deck plate (L channel welded to frame skeleton?)
-for function and ability of the unit to clear debris I'd rather have a smooth bottom. It's a brush cutter not a sports car. For me function over asthetics should always be the choice
-rear wheel pivot with AT LEAST bushings and a grease zerk, the wheel itself should be ball bearing as it's meant to be on the ground moving and will be a high wear part.
-with the proliferation of subcompact and compact tractors, Geometry that allows for proper function for limited travel cat 1 machines. Maybe pre drill a couple sets of mounting holes so that the cutter could be better fit to it's intended machine
-Quick Hitch compatibility is an absolute must these days which seems most effectively done with articulating support arm from toplink back towards the read of the unit.(could use chain too here i suppose)
-Softly pitch skids or even rounded skids would be great as I like to run my brush hog low where it does sometimes grab ground instead of skidding. (Maybe tube skids instead of L channel with bolt on flanges?)
-slip clutched PTO is the only way to go in my mind but it also requires the user to monitor and adjust it's function, sheer bolt is more dummy proof for those un-inclined to do maintenance.
-properly supported gearbox area to prevent unnecesary torsion on the deck plate (L channel welded to frame skeleton?)
-for function and ability of the unit to clear debris I'd rather have a smooth bottom. It's a brush cutter not a sports car. For me function over asthetics should always be the choice
-rear wheel pivot with AT LEAST bushings and a grease zerk, the wheel itself should be ball bearing as it's meant to be on the ground moving and will be a high wear part.
-with the proliferation of subcompact and compact tractors, Geometry that allows for proper function for limited travel cat 1 machines. Maybe pre drill a couple sets of mounting holes so that the cutter could be better fit to it's intended machine
airbiscuit
Super Member
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I agree, but they mostly don't have well designed skids.
MechanicalGuy
Platinum Member
Wanting to keep a manufacturing base in your own country for the future prosperity and skill of your country and children is in no way naive.
Liquidsilver
Gold Member
Another vote for the guide wheels... or improved, rounded, beefier skids. When I'm mowing rough fields and my back wheel dips into a big hole... it's tough for me to grab the height before I've made a big gouge in the field. I guess they'd have to be removable too.. and this is just a wish list anyway, right?
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
IF someone told me to design the best rotary cutter I could, well......after owning this one for a while now,
I'd say I can't think of anything I'd change on it! It's a brush eating SOB!!
It works GREAT on grass, brush and small tree's, it just gobbles them up and spits out what's left of them!
It's easily the best cutter I've ever run and I'm betting it will still be here when I take my eternal dirt nap!!
Get them while you can boys, there's a new "bean counter design" coming down the pike!!!
SR
I'd say I can't think of anything I'd change on it! It's a brush eating SOB!!
It works GREAT on grass, brush and small tree's, it just gobbles them up and spits out what's left of them!
It's easily the best cutter I've ever run and I'm betting it will still be here when I take my eternal dirt nap!!
Get them while you can boys, there's a new "bean counter design" coming down the pike!!!
SR
Shaneard
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IF someone told me to design the best rotary cutter I could, well......after owning this one for a while now,
I'd say I can't think of anything I'd change on it! It's a brush eating SOB!!
It works GREAT on grass, brush and small tree's, it just gobbles them up and spits out what's left of them!
It's easily the best cutter I've ever run and I'm betting it will still be here when I take my eternal dirt nap!!
Get them while you can boys, there's a new "bean counter design" coming down the pike!!!
SR
I have one just like that and everything you just said is the truth. It’s the best of the best.
Z-Michigan
Veteran Member
1) Blades that can be removed and replaced without needing 300-500 ft-lbs of torque. Woods already does this.
2) Round back, or maybe 45-degree beveled corners. Round is best.
3) Simple attachment system for front and rear shields allowing user to go with no shields, chains, or rubber belting, with change time under 1 hour for an average skilled person.
4) Simple height adjustment for tailwheel with just a sturdy pin and hairpin style retainer, or equivalent. (This is probably already common, but I haven't owned a brush cutter with this.)
5) Small sidewheels on deck to minimize scalping as below.
6) Assembly AND PARTS made in USA; will accept parts made in other 1st-world countries, not China.
7) Wish - stainless steel or other corrosion-resistant metal. A few companies have made these, yes they cost more but in my area rocks will dent the cutter quickly and that means rust. It's possible that nitrocarburizing aka nitriding aka "Black Nitride" would be an economical way to get corrosion resistance on basic steel like A36.
Great idea. I hated the scalping on turns from my Deere LX6.
Having some bad experiences with implements made outside the US, mostly inferior metal resulting in damage from ordinary use, and including a Deere "Frontier" blade that bent in light use (it was made in Mexico c. 2007), I will only spend serious money on implements made in first-world countries, using first-world metal and parts. If it's made in China or India it better be cheap because I'm going to assume it's disposable. Your plans don't sound cheap, so it better be made in the USA. IMPORTANTLY, this means not only final assembly, not only the deck, but the gearbox and PTO shaft, at minimum, and ideally every last nut and bolt. I know Chinese gearboxes are common, even on brands that should know better like Woods, but they are marginal at best. I'm currently dealing with an issue of this type, and it looks like the US manufacturer is caught in the middle due to their outsourcing a key part.
In the context of quality for this type of machinery I would consider Canada, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan to be capable of making the required quality, but I'm guessing they won't be any lower cost than the US. Likewise Germany, Austria, Sweden and a few other European countries can easily do it, but there's no chance they will be price competitive for this type of item. Go for 100% USA made if at all possible.
2) Round back, or maybe 45-degree beveled corners. Round is best.
3) Simple attachment system for front and rear shields allowing user to go with no shields, chains, or rubber belting, with change time under 1 hour for an average skilled person.
4) Simple height adjustment for tailwheel with just a sturdy pin and hairpin style retainer, or equivalent. (This is probably already common, but I haven't owned a brush cutter with this.)
5) Small sidewheels on deck to minimize scalping as below.
6) Assembly AND PARTS made in USA; will accept parts made in other 1st-world countries, not China.
7) Wish - stainless steel or other corrosion-resistant metal. A few companies have made these, yes they cost more but in my area rocks will dent the cutter quickly and that means rust. It's possible that nitrocarburizing aka nitriding aka "Black Nitride" would be an economical way to get corrosion resistance on basic steel like A36.
Great idea. I hated the scalping on turns from my Deere LX6.
Having some bad experiences with implements made outside the US, mostly inferior metal resulting in damage from ordinary use, and including a Deere "Frontier" blade that bent in light use (it was made in Mexico c. 2007), I will only spend serious money on implements made in first-world countries, using first-world metal and parts. If it's made in China or India it better be cheap because I'm going to assume it's disposable. Your plans don't sound cheap, so it better be made in the USA. IMPORTANTLY, this means not only final assembly, not only the deck, but the gearbox and PTO shaft, at minimum, and ideally every last nut and bolt. I know Chinese gearboxes are common, even on brands that should know better like Woods, but they are marginal at best. I'm currently dealing with an issue of this type, and it looks like the US manufacturer is caught in the middle due to their outsourcing a key part.
In the context of quality for this type of machinery I would consider Canada, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan to be capable of making the required quality, but I'm guessing they won't be any lower cost than the US. Likewise Germany, Austria, Sweden and a few other European countries can easily do it, but there's no chance they will be price competitive for this type of item. Go for 100% USA made if at all possible.
jmc
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He was doing research for a foreign business and refused to identify in which country. Before I realized his agenda, I bit. Then it got creepy.