Sliding miter saw
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downsizingnow48
Elite Member
I've had a Bosch 10" sliding bevel saw for about 35 years. Works perfect now and from day 1. It will outlast me. But, if I was going to get a second miter saw, which I am often tempted to, it would be smaller, not larger. I am thinking about the cordless Makita dual bevel.
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XSL02...words=makita+miter+saw&qid=1568421997&sr=8-14
How often do you expect to bevel 4" lumber? Do you make a living on 4" crown molding? If so you need a 12" saw. On the other hand, a 8" or even 7 1/4" slider will do a huge amount of trim and hobby work and is much easier to move to where you are working.
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XSL02...words=makita+miter+saw&qid=1568421997&sr=8-14
How often do you expect to bevel 4" lumber? Do you make a living on 4" crown molding? If so you need a 12" saw. On the other hand, a 8" or even 7 1/4" slider will do a huge amount of trim and hobby work and is much easier to move to where you are working.
kenmac
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I have built many projects with my HF 10 slide. They didn't have a 12 when I bought this 10.
Built a deck with it ans now replace deck boards with it
It's like the every ready bunny.. it just won't die !
Mine is the chicago electric. They have several models now
check
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Have a friend helping me with the (7”) garage siding. He has a Rigid 12” compound slider. Problem is, we have to cut angles for the 4/12 itch roof, and his saw cuts too short.
He wants to use a jigsaw. Another problem is that the siding is bevelled. Have to think about this.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
For that kind of situation I set up a plywood jig with a steel straight edge and use a circular saw. One set up will do all the cuts for both gables if the siding is flat. If it is beveled you need two setups.
No jig saw!
No jig saw!
Slowpoke Slim
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For the money you save, may as well get the HF 12" slider and ignore the 10" entirely. I bought the HF 12" slider a few years ago at their "sidewalk sale" for $139 and it's been great. I'm still on my first blade too. Just the standard tooth (forget the tooth count) blade. I did buy a high grade, high tooth blade for doing better quality cuts, but I haven't felt the need to put it on yet. The HF blade is still cutting very smooth. I've cut green, treated 4x4's and also cut 45 degree angles on those green 4x4's. Saw never misses a beat.
Good value for a "home project" saw.
Good value for a "home project" saw.
natedog75
Bronze Member
I have a Makita 10” slider dual bevel, a Rigid 10” dual bevel slider, and a Hitachi 12” dual bevel non slider. I like some things about all three. And all three have something that annoys me. For instance my Makita bevel controls are in the back but lock tighter. My Rigid bevel controls are up front and easier to manipulate for 22.5 and 33.9 but don’t hold quite as tight. The Hitachi doesn’t have any fancy frills like stops for 22.5 but is dead on accurate once setup. It is way to easy to flex a slider when on the outer end and your cut domes up 1/16 out of square which won’t matter for a deck but drives me nuts on trim pieces.
If you want accuracy in your cuts go with the smallest non slider that will handle the material size you will be cutting. If you want capacity go with the biggest slider you can afford. A 12” slider is going to walk and deflect way more than a 10” non slider. I use the sliders for big stuff (decks, siding etc.) I use the 12” for crown and trim.
Both of my 10” miter saws have deep throat recesses on the back and will cut a 4x4. You just have to check the capacity of the saw.
One thing I would say is check to see if the saw is belt drive and check to see if it is soft start. Belt drive makes a big difference. Also soft start is nice to have but my Rigid is almost to soft. It takes longer than I would like to get to full speed.
If you want accuracy in your cuts go with the smallest non slider that will handle the material size you will be cutting. If you want capacity go with the biggest slider you can afford. A 12” slider is going to walk and deflect way more than a 10” non slider. I use the sliders for big stuff (decks, siding etc.) I use the 12” for crown and trim.
Both of my 10” miter saws have deep throat recesses on the back and will cut a 4x4. You just have to check the capacity of the saw.
One thing I would say is check to see if the saw is belt drive and check to see if it is soft start. Belt drive makes a big difference. Also soft start is nice to have but my Rigid is almost to soft. It takes longer than I would like to get to full speed.
natedog75
Bronze Member
Also I have a majority of the Dewalt 20v line and some of the 60v. I bought the 7-1/4 20v saw. Until they release a brushless version I won’t have one. I returned the one I bought. The slide mechanism wasn’t smooth. The hinge on the saw wasn’t smooth either. The saw had enough power for trim but it ran through batteries pretty quickly. I have 2ah, 3ah, 4ah, 5ah, 6ah, and 60v 6ah. Of course it is best to use 4ah or higher on the miter saw. But it ate through batteries if you cut anything beefier than shoe loudly or quarter round. It was convenient but just was up to snuff for me.
I have the 60v cordless compressor and love it. I don’t have to fool with a extension cord for small projects but I don’t have to hold up a 5lb 18 gauge gun either. A bonus is it works with all the guns I currently have from 23 gauge pinned to framing gun. I have even used it on a roof patch with my Senco roofing nailer. You of course need to understand what it is meant for as with any battery operated tool and understand its limitations. I said all that to say I wasn’t discounting Dewalt miter saw just because it was cordless. I just wish it was like some of their other tools. It needs and upgrade to be ready for prime time. I have been watching to see if they would revamp it. When they do I will be all over it.
I have the 60v cordless compressor and love it. I don’t have to fool with a extension cord for small projects but I don’t have to hold up a 5lb 18 gauge gun either. A bonus is it works with all the guns I currently have from 23 gauge pinned to framing gun. I have even used it on a roof patch with my Senco roofing nailer. You of course need to understand what it is meant for as with any battery operated tool and understand its limitations. I said all that to say I wasn’t discounting Dewalt miter saw just because it was cordless. I just wish it was like some of their other tools. It needs and upgrade to be ready for prime time. I have been watching to see if they would revamp it. When they do I will be all over it.
spitter
Platinum Member
Long angles like that I would never lay it on a slide saw . Lay out angle cut with circular saw Take your time It's a skill builder any wood butcher can cut a 90 degree cross cut skills come in when you have to cut angles and notches .:drink:
Egon
Epic Contributor
There are several compound sliders with zero clearance which are good for cramped spaces. ( Makita 10” & Bosch 12” )
Of the others standard sliders. ( DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch, ) either 10” or 12” are well accepted brands. They can all be had with stands which would be advised.
My personal choice would be the Bosch 12” zero clearance.
Of the others standard sliders. ( DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch, ) either 10” or 12” are well accepted brands. They can all be had with stands which would be advised.
My personal choice would be the Bosch 12” zero clearance.
