Error code 008 NX4510

[JimR]

FWIW, my tractor refused to run right with regeneration issues every 8-12 hours until I installed a warmer T-stat. Kioti's now-not-there-two-man-warranty-department claimed I "Remapped" the ECU (clearly not mechanics). While nearly everybody had problems with tier IV running in cooler and cold climates, in Kioti's case the spring on the by-pass on the T-stat is too weak. So even though the stock T-stat begins to open at 160 degrees F, at 1500 rpm and higher, the bypass womped open thereby never really allowing the tractor warm up in cooler climates. The cooler running in turn makes the ECU run the engine rich clogging the DPF all the faster. The universal field repair for fleets was to install a warmer T-stat. A Stant 48808 thermostat with no modifications works just fine in our 1.8L NX engines (Stant on the right) but you'll still need to cover the radiator if you're in areas as cold as I am.

Eric, I remember you posting about this way back. My tractor runs right in the middle of the gauge 100% of the time once it is warmed up. If I left it to idle, as I did a few times after I bought it, the tractor would never make it over 1/4 of the way up. I stopped idling it after I saw some posts early on about idling these tier IV motors. Why would Kioti say that you remapped the ECU? Changing a thermostat does nothing electrical to the ECU. It would force the ECU to modify the running if in fact it was set to stop the tractor from running hotter. I doubt that is the case. A clogged up screen or radiator would also cause it to run hotter. Does that mean that these scenarios also remap the ECU? I doubt it very much. Does the ECU compensate for that? I'd like to see that in writing from Kioti.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, I remember you posting about this way back. My tractor runs right in the middle of the gauge 100% of the time once it is warmed up. If I left it to idle, as I did a few times after I bought it, the tractor would never make it over 1/4 of the way up. I stopped idling it after I saw some posts early on about idling these tier IV motors. Why would Kioti say that you remapped the ECU? Changing a thermostat does nothing electrical to the ECU. It would force the ECU to modify the running if in fact it was set to stop the tractor from running hotter. I doubt that is the case. A clogged up screen or radiator would also cause it to run hotter. Does that mean that these scenarios also remap the ECU? I doubt it very much. Does the ECU compensate for that? I'd like to see that in writing from Kioti.

At any give engine temperature the ECU follows the factory fuel map. The claim that I had "remapped" the ECU made my forehead slope down a bit as that is impossible. Operationally the engine may warm up but, then when the bypass is bypassing the T-stat and it is cold enough outside, the engine will cool right back down again and this cool cycling loads up the DPF. Here is an August, 2014 video I made of the tractor warmed up, believing it doesn't need to regenerate but lacking so much power that is can barely get out of its own way. This is what led to my sorting out the issue with a warmer T-stat after my dealer didn't know how to proceed.

 

[JimR]

Eric, I noticed that your temperature gauge was right in the middle. That is where mine reads all the time when using my tractor. It has always run fine in all ranges. Could it be that your thermostat was faulty which allowed the coolant to bypass? I noticed that my boat had a 160 thermostat in it. The motor ran much better at 180 when I swapped it out. I also have a closed cooling system on the boat motor.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, I noticed that your temperature gauge was right in the middle. That is where mine reads all the time when using my tractor. It has always run fine in all ranges. Could it be that your thermostat was faulty which allowed the coolant to bypass? I noticed that my boat had a 160 thermostat in it. The motor ran much better at 180 when I swapped it out. I also have a closed cooling system on the boat motor.

Engines like to run hot. Racing engines we'd try to lean the engines out as much as we could without getting lean misfiring on partial throttle and WOT because lean-running makes power. My tractor reads right in the middle all the time with a 185 degree T-stat as well. Bypass wise: originally I weakened the Stant 48808 bypass spring but the result was a warmer version of the original OEM T-stat: the tractor would cool itself down while transporting from one job to another in the cold. I then swapped out for an unmodified 48808 and hit gold: the tractor suddenly worked as advertised. My reward was Kioti voided my warranty citing:

1) I had worked on my own tractor (I'm a tech and they are over 100 miles away)
2) I had modified my tractor (I made and installed my own third function and swapped the T-stat tro get the engine operating iun its expected operational range)
3) I had abused my tractor without citing any examples when pressed to do so (I think they watched one of my first tractor videos where I tried out my Phrahana tooth Bar).

Long story short: Kioti's Importer can go fly a kite.

 

[JimR]

Engines like to run hot. Racing engines we'd try to lean the engines out as much as we could without getting lean misfiring on partial throttle and WOT because lean-running makes power. My tractor reads right in the middle all the time with a 185 degree T-stat as well. Bypass wise: originally I weakened the Stant 48808 bypass spring but the result was a warmer version of the original OEM T-stat: the tractor would cool itself down while transporting from one job to another in the cold. I then swapped out for an unmodified 48808 and hit gold: the tractor suddenly worked as advertised. My reward was Kioti voided my warranty citing:

1) I had worked on my own tractor (I'm a tech and they are over 100 miles away)
2) I had modified my tractor (I made and installed my own third function and swapped the T-stat tro get the engine operating iun its expected operational range)
3) I had abused my tractor without citing any examples when pressed to do so (I think they watched one of my first tractor videos where I tried out my Phrahana tooth Bar).

Long story short: Kioti's Importer can go fly a kite.

That really stinks that they did that to you.

 

[JoelD]

Small world thanks to the internet. And so many brands to chose from.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I think I’d be looking into another tractor.

 

[JimR]

Can someone that has the repair manual look up the micron rating for the fuel filter. Today Kioti told me that it is 90 Microns. I questioned that and they said that is what is in the manual. 90 microns is huge. I think it should be 9 microns.

 

[JimR]

I think I壇 be looking into another tractor.

I'm starting to think that way now too. If I buy another one it will not be a tier IV machine. I've seen a few older ones with low hours on them. The price wasn't bad. I have also seen a few pre-tier IV machines with an asking price that is super high. I just emailed the EPA about my problem. The first email went to the wrong place. I think it is time to get some help on this issue.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Can someone that has the repair manual look up the micron rating for the fuel filter. Today Kioti told me that it is 90 Microns. I questioned that and they said that is what is in the manual. 90 microns is huge. I think it should be 9 microns.

You and your dealer are both right.

I searched for "micron" in the service manual and got this:

- Oil filter
- Relief valve opening pressure: 4.5 ~ 5.4 kgf/cm2 (64 ~ 76 psi)
Filter paper fineness: Max.: 99 ｱ 5 microns,
Average: 75 ｱ 5 microns Filtered area: 1680 cm2
Bypass valve opening pressure (pressure difference between inner and outer side of filter paper):
1 ｱ 0.2 kgf/cm2

And elsewhere:

- Oil filter
Filter paper fineness: Max.: 99 ｱ 5 microns,
Average: 75 ｱ 5 microns Filtered area: 1680 cm2
Bypass valve opening pressure (pressure difference between inner and outer side of filter paper):
1 ｱ 0.2 kgf/cm2

Fuel filter

The fuel from fuel feed pump enters into the filter port through the (b) port and passes through the filter paper. Then, it is drained through the (c) port and supplied to the fuel injection pump. The filter paper collects the particles bigger than 90 microns (0.0034 in.) at 20 kPa (0.2 kgf/cm2, 3 psi).

and elsewhere (page 3-161)

As fuel from the fuel tank enters the fuel filter through its port (A), it flows through the filter element and then is supplied to the HP fuel pump through the port (B). The element in the pre-filter filters foreign materials over 10 microns in thickness at differential pressure of 10 kPa (0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.45 psi). This pre-filter is not only to filter water and foreign materials from fuel, but also to preheat fuel. As diesel fuel tends to freeze on a low temperature con- dition, making the engine hard to start, this pre-filter is equipped with the fuel heater (5) to avoid this situation.

Notice the difference in filtering of 10 microns at 1.45PSI and 90 microns at 3PSI.

and just for gins and giggles since I found it as well:

HYDRAULIC FILTER
(1) Hydraulic filter
page 11-14
The hydraulic filter (1) is installed on the suction line in front of the gear pump. Oil drawn into the filter passes from the outside to the inside of the filter element.
The filter element is a paper type which is not reusable nor washable.
Replacement interval: 50 hours after initial opera- tion, and then every 400 hours of operation
Filter element specifications (1 EA)
Filtering dimension 4,100 cm2 ｱ 10%
Number of folds 55 ｱ 5
Hardness Over 4.5 bar
Paper thickness 1mm or more
Pressure drop Below 10 mmH2O
Max. fineness 58 μm
Average fineness 92 ｱ 4 MICRON