Starting in cold weather GC17XX

[cglaser104]

I have the same experience. My GC started like normal when it was in the single digits F. I just glow for double the time before trying to start. It chugs for a few seconds until all the cylinders start burning and then its fine.

However, yesterday, I noticed that my friend's GC, which is a 2016 model with 200h on it, started hard and it was only 40 degrees out. I let it glow for two cycles like I would mine and it still sputtered, loped, and stalled on first fire-up. It caught the second time but ran poorly for a few seconds.

I wonder if those having any real issue starting in the cold have a glow plug or two that needs replaced. The 6.2 Diesel in my M1008 was tough to start until I replaced all the glow plugs and now it NEVER gives me a problem no matter how cold. It has an afterglow circuit program, too, which I'm sure helps. I am leaning toward a need to replace the glow plugs.

I've seen others say a fresh battery makes a big difference as well. Perhaps try one out and see if it's that simple before worrying about glow plug replacement

 

[Nacademus]

I've seen others say a fresh battery makes a big difference as well. Perhaps try one out and see if it's that simple before worrying about glow plug replacement

Tractor battery was fine. Tested with a Schumacher BT-100. Getting full CCA at temp.

And my truck had 2 batteries. New. That's where I started first before replacing plugs.

 

[4570Man]

You said, "the use of a block heater is needed below 20F". Though many are convinced of this, it's not a fact.

Why not use it anyway? Do you use it when you don't need it?

Mine doesn't start hard. It's not cranking long, smoking, or laboring when it fires.

If it was, I would agree with you. But it's not.

I have a video of it starting at 6F, from last year. It started like any other day. And, I have on multiple occasions started it in below zero conditions, It's always started, and it's not been a big deal.

Perhaps you need a block heater. That's fine. I don't.

On the fairly rare event that it’s colder than 20f you probably won’t find me on the tractor. But my Kubotas have always started. My diesel truck will start but it’s a lot happier with the block heater plugged in.

 

[atsah]

You said, "the use of a block heater is needed below 20F". Though many are convinced of this, it's not a fact.

Why not use it anyway? Do you use it when you don't need it?

Mine doesn't start hard. It's not cranking long, smoking, or laboring when it fires.

If it was, I would agree with you. But it's not.

I have a video of it starting at 6F, from last year. It started like any other day. And, I have on multiple occasions started it in below zero conditions, It's always started, and it's not been a big deal.

Perhaps you need a block heater. That's fine. I don't.

I probably should not have said "it is needed" but makes sense to use one in a cold climate.. Most people will figure out..

 

[ray66v]

Lots of things figure into whether or not a tractor starts hard or easy.

Battery power, as stated, is a big one. If you can't crank at a decent speed, it's never going to start.

A good battery tender will help with that in low temps.

Glow plugs can in time wear out, or get carboned up. As far as failure goes, one will probably start to fail first. Your sign for that is, since one cylinder is not hot, it won't have good combustion. It will run rough and chug, when cold starting. If you have tried a long glow plug cycle, and you still have incomplete combustion, your glow plug(s), may be the problem. You can find the cold cylinder with a non contact, infrared thermometer. That will give you a place to start checking.

Fuel quality is also important. If you buy your gas at the cheap gas, gas station, good luck. It's probably not that great.

See if you have a local place where the farmers all get their fuel. It's a good bet they sell a better grade of fuel. They don't want to deal with an angry farmer.

Basic maintenance, like a clean air filter is more important on these as they need to suck in much more air, than a gas engine.

And finally, operator technique is a factor. These are not like a modern car where anyone who can turn the key can fire it up. They do require you to roughly determine the combination of glow plug time, and throttle setting for your rig, at a given temperature. If you don't open the throttle when it's very cold, it's not going to start. And, you're going to have to go through some trial and error, to determine how much and when. I have never had to open mine more than 1/3 of the way to start it. So, I would not consider using the full throttle setting suggested in some manuals.

 

[PJohnson]

Very informative read.
Like others I recently replaced my battery. I have not installed a block heater, but have used a magnetic heater attached to the oil pan with mediocre results.

We are just south of Boston so the Jan/Feb temps will drop into the teens. Stella (My GC2310) sits in an heated shelter logic garage. I have had the most luck firing up the kerosene heater for 15-20 min, then 30 seconds or so on the GP.

We all have a technique that works for us. It is helpful reading everyone痴 methods and sharing our knowledge.

 

[buickanddeere]

Not enough wattage and not applied to critical areas with magnetic heaters .

 

[PJohnson]

Not enough wattage and not applied to critical areas with magnetic heaters .

Can you provide a bit more information?

 

[Imold]

A 200 watt magnetic oil pan heater with a good battery is better then nothing, sure a 400 watt frost plug heater would be nicer but with the magnetic heater at least the oil will not be like honey. Both my 7.3 diesels have 1000 watt frost plug heaters and at -20 it makes a big difference as long as my batteries are up to snuff.
I have a frost plug heater in my 1705 and I am thinking it is a 400 watt but not sure, anyway I think I will see how long I can go before I need to plug it in, it is in a unheated uninsulated garage so will see how it goes, this is my first diesel tractor so it is all a learning experience for me plus I have the battery on a maintainer so at least I know I will have a good battery to start it.

 

[ray66v]

If you want to warm oil up, you can do it more effectively with a silicone pad heater permanently glued to the bottom of the oil pan. And, they are not expensive.

You do have to be careful not to use a heater that is big enough to cook the oil.

I use a 140w pad heater on my transmission to keep the oil from getting cold soaked.