Snow plow size and chain all 4 wheels on a TC33D?

[John_Mc]

I'd love to see a photo of your tractor. I want to set mine up like that for working in the woods.

I started a new thread about my tractor forestry mods. If you want to see any close-ups of anything, let me know in that thread.

 

[John_Mc]

I didn't realize you were in Vermont. It's going to be a challenge in deep snow no mater what size blade you use.

That's when the snowblower gets put to use.

Being out in front of the bucket there is going to be a lot of leverage trying to push the back of the tractor around.

I have a quick attach on my FEL, so the plow will be out there instead of the bucket, rather than in front of the bucket. With filled rear tires, the studded "euro-style" chains, and the snowblower hanging off the back, the back end is probably not a concern. However, the leverage on the front caused by an angled plow is a still a concern, which is why I'm inquiring about chains for the front. As RickB mentioned, brake steering is difficult on the TC33D, since the hydro pedal and the brakes are both on the same side. (A dumb design, though it is possible to get both feet over there, if it's really needed. I wouldn't want to run in that position for any length of time.)

1/3 of a mile is going to be a lot to do with a tractor. I would recommend a truck with an 8 foot plow with at least 800 pounds of weight in the back. Having heat would also be a big plus. You can do it with the tractor but it will take longer. When the snow is deep you will probably have to take small bites and push it iff to the sides. It will be fun though. I use my truck and just use the tractor and loader to push back and stack the snow banks

It's a lot to maintain, especially driving backwards with the snowblower. Fortunately, we don't often get snows deep enough to require the snowblower. It's manageable most of the time with my neighbor's tractor and plow. For the light snows, he uses his ATV.

A truck might be nice. I'm not sure my Tacoma would make a good plow truck. I recently purchased a 1951 Dodge M37 truck (former military, Korean war era, 3/4 ton). It might make a good plow truck once I get it fixed up, but I'm not sure if I want to do that to it.

 

[wolfie1959]

If the Tacoma is 4X4 it would work and the M37 would be awesome. But the tractor will work too if you take your time. I looked at a Ford 1920 that had a loader and a snowblower that mounted in place of the bucket. I never tried it but it looked like it would work great and you wouldn't have to go backwards.

 

[John_Mc]

If the Tacoma is 4X4 it would work and the M37 would be awesome. But the tractor will work too if you take your time. I looked at a Ford 1920 that had a loader and a snowblower that mounted in place of the bucket. I never tried it but it looked like it would work great and you wouldn't have to go backwards.

A front snowblower would be great, but they are a lot more expensive. I had been trying to justify a snowblower for years, but just don't use one enough to justify buying one new. When a friend mentioned he was selling his Puma 64, I jumped on it. It was in good condition; all I've done to it was grease it. As mentioned earlier, it's a bit smaller than I would have liked, but for $500 in that condition, I'm not complaining.

Yes, the Tacoma is 4x4. 2WD pickups are just about worthless around here in the winter. I've often wondered if anyone makes a snow plow that can be swapped back and forth from a pickup to a tractor - like an SSQA mount for a pickup with some kind of electro-hydraulic setup that stayed on the pickup side of the mount.

The M37 is a beast. I'll be rebuilding the transmission and transfer case this winter with a friend (who fortunately knows a whole lot more about these things than I do). It's not a "showroom" truck. It shows that it's been around a while, and I like that look. It will get used in the woods from time to time. I'm just not sure if I want to subject it to the road salt - not an issue on my driveway, but it will be hard to resist going out to do other plowing with it if I had it set up for that.

 

[CobyRupert]

I guess I don't understand all the concern about chains on 4 tires.

Wouldn't chains on all four and in 4wd on bare pavement strain the drive train less than rubber tires on bare pavement in 4wd? I've done that on driveway and get more mad that I'm wearing rubber off tires at a faster rate than drive train stress.

...now consider that you probably won't be on bare pavement when plowing. Or plow in 2 wheel drive if you're worried there's not enough slippage for 4WD, and if that doesn't work you know there's enough slippage that 4wd is no concern.
:2cents:

 

[LouNY]

John,
My tractor is a bit larger then yours and I only have an 8 foot blade mounted on it,
many times I have wished it was a 10 footer.
That said I have not noticed much side deflection using the blade to push snow,
I do have to wait for the ground to get froze up hard before using the front blade,
I don't normally run front chains, I have them and can but usually don't need them I can and do brake steer,
that should be loading the arms more then chains do. I also plow slowly just to be easier on my equipment.
Much of the time even with the blade angled I'm using an inverted J pushing style to shove the snow over the banks
on my drive and between the trees.
I do a 1/4 mile driveway and prefer the tractor over the truck.
The FEL mounted blade lets me push well off the driveway and over the banks the truck always drops a front tire over the edge of the driveway when pushing the snow back where the tractors blade is much futher ahead of the front wheels which are easier to see as they near the edge of the drop offs.

 

[ruffdog]

A front 2" receiver mounted plow gets it real tight to the front too. There are even a few plows that have the lift/angle hydraulics that fit a front receiver.

 

[John_Mc]

I guess I don't understand all the concern about chains on 4 tires.

Wouldn't chains on all four and in 4wd on bare pavement strain the drive train less than rubber tires on bare pavement in 4wd? I've done that on driveway and get more mad that I'm wearing rubber off tires at a faster rate than drive train stress.

...now consider that you probably won't be on bare pavement when plowing. Or plow in 2 wheel drive if you're worried there's not enough slippage for 4WD, and if that doesn't work you know there's enough slippage that 4wd is no concern.
:2cents:

The concern is that years ago I was told by someone at the dealer that it is a bad idea on this particular model of tractor. (I'm not certain, but it may be that these are FWA rather than true 4WD systems, so have lighter-duty front wheel drive than some other designs?) Since then others (not at the dealer) have said "not a big deal". I want the real story, so I'm trying to verify whether there is some "official" recommendation from the manufacturer or not. New Holland has given me the run-around ("talk to your local dealer"). I'd like to know if NH has issued any specific guidance on this, rather than rely on the opinion of whomever I talk to at the dealer.

If my entire winter was spent driving around in deep snow or ice conditions, I might be less concerned. That's not the case around here. Since I'm unlikely to take the chains off every time the snow melts, nor every time I take the tractor out on paved roads, it's a question to which I'd like a definitive answer.

 

[CobyRupert]

The concern is that years ago I was told by someone at the dealer that it is a bad idea on this particular model of tractor. (I'm not certain, but it may be that these are FWA rather than true 4WD systems, so have lighter-duty front wheel drive than some other designs?) Since then others (not at the dealer) have said "not a big deal". I want the real story, so I'm trying to verify whether there is some "official" recommendation from the manufacturer or not. New Holland has given me the run-around ("talk to your local dealer"). I'd like to know if NH has issued any specific guidance on this, rather than rely on the opinion of whomever I talk to at the dealer.

If my entire winter was spent driving around in deep snow or ice conditions, I might be less concerned. That's not the case around here. Since I'm unlikely to take the chains off every time the snow melts, nor every time I take the tractor out on paved roads, it's a question to which I'd like a definitive answer.

Hmm....FWIW: Tractor data lists a TC33D as MFWD, what most would call a true (typical) 4WD.
Do you know why they call it FWA, or what is different than any other MFWD? Can you shift it in and out of FWA or is it on 100% of the time?
I think of FWA as a vehicle that would have a some type of (limited slip) differential between the front and rear axles (like a Subaru or AWD car), or where front and rear axles are not otherwise mechanically "locked" like a MFWD or 4WD. If my assumption/definition is right, then FWA would be more forgiving to drive on pavement in "4wd" (with or without chains) than a MFWD is.

I wouldn't be concerned with chains on 4 tires. I'd treat it the same a driving a MFWD (or 4wd) or AWD or FWA on pavement.

 

[John_Mc]

Hmm....FWIW: Tractor data lists a TC33D as MFWD, what most would call a true (typical) 4WD.
Do you know why they call it FWA, or what is different than any other MFWD? Can you shift it in and out of FWA or is it on 100% of the time?
I think of FWA as a vehicle that would have a some type of (limited slip) differential between the front and rear axles (like a Subaru or AWD car), or where front and rear axles are not otherwise mechanically "locked" like a MFWD or 4WD. If my assumption/definition is right, then FWA would be more forgiving to drive on pavement in "4wd" (with or without chains) than a MFWD is.

I wouldn't be concerned with chains on 4 tires. I'd treat it the same a driving a MFWD (or 4wd) or AWD or FWA on pavement.

I probably had the terminology wrong. All I can remember for sure is that someone at the dealer told me it was not recommended to chain all four tires, since the drive train on the TC33D was not designed to take that. (He said chaining all 4 was OK on their larger tractors.) So with the non-response out of NH when I contacted them directly, I'm left wondering if the guy way back when at my dealer had any clue what he was talking about.

As to your earlier comment about traction for rubber on pavement being greater than chain on pavement traction, I agree. I would think the worst situation as far as drive train stress would be driving studded chains on firm/hard ground that was not paved: just soft enough for the studs to bite in, but hard/frozen enough that the ground will not shift. When operating on bare pavement, I'm in 2WD anyway. I can't say that I always switch out of 4WD when driving on hard-packed ground.

You are probably right, and I'm worried about nothing. It just seems strange that NH won;t make a statement about it.