Tractor Sizing What horsepower and or weight tractor is enough

[scratchpad]

I have ten acres and run a five foot rotary mower behind my Kubota L2501. I think it's a good match for power and weight for me. I specifically did not go above 25 horsepower strictly to eliminate the DPF and regeneration thing. My L2501 doesn't even have a computer. I love it!! Simpler is better for me.

The first tractor they recommend at all the kubota dealers ive been at try to sell that L2501 first. One of the reasons you mentioned. I just think id beat that thing to death on my property.

 

[jeff9366]

Have 8 acres of uneven and some areas rough hard as **** dirt. Discing, ripping, scraping, leveling out a few areas and moving dirt around. Building some width to an existing driveway among other small farming stuff.

Discing, ripping, and leveling moving dirt around will be the most use.

I recommend a tractor with a bare tractor weight of 3,000 to 4,000 pounds. New or used.

In Kubota economy tractors this would include Kubota L4701 (3,300 pounds) and Kubota MX series (3,700 pounds).

In Kubota deLuxe tractors this would include all of the 'Grand L' models.

Kubota tractors weighing 3,000 to 4,000 pounds bare have engines producing 37-hp to 62-hp.


I recommend shopping Korean tractor brands LS, Kioti and Branson in addition to Kubota, if dealers are near your property.

 

[scratchpad]

I recommend a tractor with a bare tractor weight of 3,000 to 4,000 pounds. New or used.

In Kubota economy tractors this would include Kubota L4701 (3,300 pounds) and Kubota MX series (3,700 pounds).

In Kubota deLuxe tractors this would include all of the 'Grand L' models.

:thumbsup:

 

[WoodDuck]

I was also concerned with weight and lifting capacity when I was tractor shopping. I ended up with a Kioti NX. Some of the green/red CUTs have aluminum rear ends, my Kioti and several other manufacturer's have cast iron rear ends. Iron weighing more than aluminum, I considered that free weight. Looking at the weight numbers for various makes and models during my research, I found that a similarly-sized tractor with an aluminum rear end would need the rear tires filled with Rimguard just to approached the listed weight of a cast iron rear end tractor with no ballast at all. So I bought an iron rear-ended tractor, and then loaded the rear tires with Rimguard to get more weight into a tractor size that would still fit into my building. If weight were my primary concern, I'd skip the aluminum tractors entirely myself. The bad news is: tractors are not cheap investments, regardless of the color you pick. It's an individual choice for everyone; balancing between our absolute "perfect" tractor make/model that we'd LOVE to have, and what we can actually justify spending at the time. Sometimes we do get our "perfect" tractor, sometimes we have to slide down the scale a ways to keep the operation afloat. Best of luck in your research!

 

[BRMyers]

Thank you for that advice. Im in the Central Valley of Kalifornia near Fresno.

So, weight consideration seems first. Someone mentioned 5-6000lbs. That much weight of a tractor is out of my price range. The larger compacts ive been looking at IIRC are around 3-3500lbs. based on what the papers said.

Will mid 30's Hp with mid to high 20's pto on a heavier chassis do the job or should i be looking a little bigger? I dont want to cry twice like wiley kioti did.

You say that weight is out of your budget, I did the calcs on my tractor:

Tractor 3880
QH 70
Loader Bucket 397
loader 1279
Front 88 176 (loaded tires)
Rear 350 700 (loaded tires)
Total 6502 Tractor weight

After towing my tractor, I figured I needed to know what the actual weight was, so i looked up all the different parts and pieces and how much weight was included in each tire filled with beet juice.

 

[scratchpad]

I was also concerned with weight and lifting capacity when I was tractor shopping. I ended up with a Kioti NX. Some of the green/red CUTs have aluminum rear ends, my Kioti and several other manufacturer's have cast iron rear ends. Iron weighing more than aluminum, I considered that free weight. Looking at the weight numbers for various makes and models during my research, I found that a similarly-sized tractor with an aluminum rear end would need the rear tires filled with Rimguard just to approached the listed weight of a cast iron rear end tractor with no ballast at all. So I bought an iron rear-ended tractor, and then loaded the rear tires with Rimguard to get more weight into a tractor size that would still fit into my building. If weight were my primary concern, I'd skip the aluminum tractors entirely myself. The bad news is: tractors are not cheap investments, regardless of the color you pick. It's an individual choice for everyone; balancing between our absolute "perfect" tractor make/model that we'd LOVE to have, and what we can actually justify spending at the time. Sometimes we do get our "perfect" tractor, sometimes we have to slide down the scale a ways to keep the operation afloat. Best of luck in your research!

:thumbsup: Thanks

 

[scratchpad]

You say that weight is out of your budget, I did the calcs on my tractor:

Tractor 3880
QH 70
Loader Bucket 397
loader 1279
Front 88 176 (loaded tires)
Rear 350 700 (loaded tires)
Total 6502 Tractor weight

After towing my tractor, I figured I needed to know what the actual weight was, so i looked up all the different parts and pieces and how much weight was included in each tire filled with beet juice.

I misunderstood what you wrote. Since another person i read somehwere had refered to bare tractor weight i assumed that was what you were referring to.

That makes alot more sense.

 

[scratchpad]

Theres some great deals on the net in other areas of the U.S. on just some of the tractors ive been looking at. Some around 3000-$4000 cash otd less. Of course before factoring in shipping costs. If i went that route id be able to get a little more tractor for more of my made up price range in my head.
On the other hand i'd like to give business to a local company. A couple of the sales guys ive been working with have been by far top notch to deal with so far. Where im at these places have been here since dirt so im pretty sure they arnt going away. Itd be pretty ****** to buy a tractor from the midwest and need some warranty work here and have to call the local shop. But then again that 3-4k savings could be used for repairs if needed.

choices!

 

[ptsg]

If you happen to have a dealer in your area, check out Branson.

Good solid and simple mechanical tractor with little to no electronics. Weight and lift more than the competition.

Heavy duty construction powered by Kukje engine built under Cummins license.

Lots of features that come standard while others have a premium price.

 

[jeff9366]

When you buy out-of-state local warranty service is uncertain.

Tractor manufactures reimburse dealers for warranty work via pre-set reduced labor rates and pre-set reduced parts prices, so warranty work is only marginally profitable to dealers. Kubota electrical components ordered for repairs, warranty or non-warranty, cannot be returned for credit. Others probably the same.

Manufactures limit warranty transportation reimbursement.

Dealers prefer to have the cushion of $1,000 gross profit on a new compact tractor sale before commencing minimally profitable warranty repairs.

Some out-of-state buyers call national HQ to complain about indifferent reception for warranty work at near-home dealer but for national HQ this out-of-state complaint is an endlessly playing broken record. Dealers are independent businesses.

What value do you place on hassle-free new tractor warranty service?