Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

   / Rear hydraulic remote . #51  
Understood. About to put an hydraulic top link on for box blade, etc although most of my work will be cutting (bushog).

I do not understand why float is such a common comment. If I use my existing non hydraulic top link there is no float. I would love to have float in case I hit a stump or large rock but why is it such a concern and topic of conversation with hydraulic top links when it is not even an option with mechanical top links? (Not challenging, trying to understand pros and cons since a cylinder without dpcv is much cheaper than those with)

Being able to use the float function feature allows a 3pt mower wheel end to move up-down much further than what the hitch on the mower allows for. If you happen to need to mow banks as in down to a pond or up a bank, when backing up to do this, having a top link in float mode allows the mower to follow the ground much better in those situations. That was just an example.

Float mode is irrelevant for you if you are using factory Kioti rear remotes. Kioti does not even offer rear remotes with the float feature any longer that I am aware of.

Good luck in getting what you need.
 

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   / Rear hydraulic remote . #52  
Being able to use the float function feature allows a 3pt mower wheel end to move up-down much further than what the hitch on the mower allows for. If you happen to need to mow banks as in down to a pond or up a bank, when backing up to do this, having a top link in float mode allows the mower to follow the ground much better in those situations. That was just an example.

Float mode is irrelevant for you if you are using factory Kioti rear remotes. Kioti does not even offer rear remotes with the float feature any longer that I am aware of.

Good luck in getting what you need.

I didn't know that. If the tractor does not offer float, a Dpcv setup is highly recommended.

Thanks Brian.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #53  
I didn't know that. If the tractor does not offer float, a Dpcv setup is highly recommended.

Thanks Brian.

100% Agree! But will it help if OP has already determined the cylinder moves with both hoses capped? That is still the part I am struggling with. I know Brian made a video of a cylinder with no seals and it definitely moves, but not when it was fully extended. Which is inline with what you were explaining in the earlier post. I will see if I can find it again.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#55  
100% Agree! But will it help if OP has already determined the cylinder moves with both hoses capped? That is still the part I am struggling with. I know Brian made a video of a cylinder with no seals and it definitely moves, but not when it was fully extended. Which is inline with what you were explaining in the earlier post. I will see if I can find it again.

I have made attempts to upload videos but am unable to do it. With the 3 point in the air I have extended the top link and disconnected the two hoses. Lowered the 3 point and the top link ram moves in to within 70mm remaining out .
If I can figure out why videos will not upload I will and send them.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Correction it should have read 70mm not 700mm. Just found out that I can edit the post.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#57  
Correction it should have read 70mm not 700mm. Just found out that I can edit the post.

Results from test as advised by K51wq.
With the implement in the air and the ram 1/2 way. The hose nearest to the rod plugged in and the hose nearest to tractor unplugged. I am able to bring the ram in and out as though both hoses were connected. So in effect I only need the one hose to operate the hydraulic top link. Is this a good indication that the cylinder is faulty.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #58  
Sounds like a big air bubble in the base end of the cylinder. (The end with the hose unplugged)

Edit: I'm wondering if the cylinder is installed with the ports on top or the bottom. Ports on the bottom would tend to trap air in the cylinder.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote . #59  
Results from test as advised by K51wq.
With the implement in the air and the ram 1/2 way. The hose nearest to the rod plugged in and the hose nearest to tractor unplugged. I am able to bring the ram in and out as though both hoses were connected. So in effect I only need the one hose to operate the hydraulic top link. Is this a good indication that the cylinder is faulty.

You need to disconnect the implement. Just let the cylinder hang loose and try that test again. Watch the video I posted a link to in post #48. It shows the test.

You should only try retracting the cylinder. If it extends while trying to retract, then it is bad seals.
 
   / Rear hydraulic remote .
  • Thread Starter
#60  
Sounds like a big air bubble in the base end of the cylinder. (The end with the hose unplugged)

Edit: I'm wondering if the cylinder is installed with the ports on top or the bottom. Ports on the bottom would tend to trap air in the cylinder.

Ports are at the top.
 

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