Opinions please on this grapple attachment

   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment #21  
If I had the money and a need for a large machine to move large logs, I'd buy a PT-1460.

But for firewood for my personal use, and the 10,000 pole-sized locust trees on our place, the PT425 is just fine. Our slopes are 25 degrees max. I make it a point to fell the trees at the bottom of the slopes first so I can drag them downhill, out, and around, then up less-steep paths back up to the top of the hill where that pile of logs is in the pictures. My longest pulls are about 1/4 mile. The little PT425 can get between 43" gaps, so there's really no place I can't go with it on our property. I've talked myself out of a winch many times. Just don't need it.
 
   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment #22  
As I used to be a logger, when dragging long trees to the logging road we always let the logs laying on the ground while dragging. This way they would pivot around more in the middle of the log, therefore not damaging as many trees. When we would get to the logging road, then we would lift up the one end and head to the landing; more weight on the machine and easier dragging.
 
   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment #23  
The 1430 has limited lift. For me I move dozens of trees a year. I use my grapple and if needed the log clamp on a chain hanging off my tow quick attach plate. For brush removal I generally start with my grapple. I get in and go throug the area tearing out the mess. Then I follow up with my brush mower.
 
   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment #24  
My little tractor lifting a big chunk of maple from this last summer. I like what MossRoad uses, logging tongs.
Over $3,000 for that log grapple you posted pictures of seems like a lot to me.

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   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment #25  
The hydraulic rotation on a log grapple is a very handy function for sure, but is not needed unless you are building boulder walls with it where precise placement is necessary. I have a jimmy rigged hydraulic log grapple on my PT. It is pretty easy to line it up from the driver seat by letting one tooth hit the ground and turning the steering wheel. The grapple will line itself up to the pile or log.

Moving the load further out from the machine naturally reduces the lift capacity, but most of the time your capacity will be limited to the pulling capacity of the machine, NOT the lifting capacity. Most of the load is dragging on the ground. For max capacity, PT 425 can drag an entire 40 foot tall, 12" diameter trunk tree thru the woods.

A key feature to look for in a log grapple is the serrated to portion under the attachment plate. This tooth portion is so you can hook the butt of a log under it then curl the grapple to lift the log completely off the ground. This make cutting up logs easier and allows you to stack brush much higher.

I also have a root grapple adapted to my PT. It is similar to this one: Best Rated 55 Inch Wicked Root Rake Grapple from Everything Attachments
It work quite well for removing brush and small trees in unfrozen ground. You can dig the teeth into the ground and remove the entire bush, roots and all.

Hope this helps
 

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   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Thanks all for the opinions. I haven't done anything yet. Those Wicked products seem top of the line with light weight and if I buy a brush grapple it will be from them, the main reason I haven't is because the PT grapple bucket works OK.
The application for the rotating log grapple is in tight spaces, either trees or boulders prevent a 90 deg. approach to the pile or log. My tree puller can pick up stuff straight on but is limited (opening size and only pics straight with machine).
The rotating grapple is very high priced, but if it is a good piece of machinery it may hold its value, don't know. It really hurts when I think it is 60% of the cost of my PT180, and it is just an attachment.
For now just doing the labor intensive method of stacking (or re-stacking) the pile 90 deg. to trail so I can use grapple bucket. But then the conversation came up about two new tics now in New England with some serious diseases!! Then it makes me think the less I have to come into contact with brush the better off I am....
 
   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment
  • Thread Starter
#27  

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   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment
  • Thread Starter
#28  
   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment #29  
My input above is specifically about a hydraulic rotator. As you are already aware, rotation is crucial for pulling brush and trees out of the woods. Manual rotation works just fine for this and significantly reduces the cost of the attachment. You may be able to convert a cheap Northern Tool log grapple by adding a hydraulic cylinder to it.
 
   / Opinions please on this grapple attachment
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Update: Well I was ready to pull the plug and buy a Ryan's Grapple. When I called to place the order on the quote they gave me, it became apparent that the mounting plate was not for a PT and they would get back to me on the cost. After 4 calls a week or two apart from each other, the last one saying they need to talk to the owner and would get back to me. That was about a month ago. Could it be the Power Trac community is not worth the effort or maybe they switch over to making respirators, toilet paper and hand sanitizer?
 

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