How to transition to MIG?

[BigBlue1]

FWIW, - if you check my big brother post here, you can see some pix of my first impressions/welds with mig personally just today - here is what i will say as i transition, I absolutely AM NOT liking the big tip of the mig, its difficult to see around and you cant just move like you would with a stick as it blocks the ability to see your puddle and keep things moving/lit etc......

My other observation is I got a new helmet, well used but new to me, its a miller digital elite stars/stripes - my biggest complaint so far is it allows light up under teh helmet and reflects and makes it hard to see also. I put my old flip down on and it doesnt do it like the miller. Thoughts on that?

I did see your thread too. Looks like we're both making progress on this front.

As for the nozzle size, you can buy different nozzles for flux welding that are narrower at the end. The metal tip actually sticks out past the nozzle on these. At least this is true for Hobart welders, so I assume Lincoln has them. That may aid your visibility issue at least if you use flux wire.

Have fun with the new setup.

Rob

 

[Big Barn]

Many variables on window size. You really don't need a huge viewing window to weld if you can get into position. Glasses or sunglasses don't have a very big viewing area. A couple pluses for large viewing area are just that the farther apart the sensors are the more chance of them doing their job. Sometimes if I can't get my big head in a repair area I'll have to look out the ear hole so to speak. Most pipe welders still use 2x4 lenses only. Clarity and optics are more important than viewing size in my opinion but I use the largest lens just the same.

Interesting. I had not thought about the sensors.

 

[BukitCase]

Guys, a couple of things - I've never used flux core, bought a MIG so I could get AWAY from a bunch of cleanup - I have seen others just take the nozzle OFF the gun for flux core, but the factory adapter keeps the threads, etc, from getting messed up.

Helmets - most of 'em let light in, but the auto darks are so much less of a PITA for changing shade it's usually worth the irritation. I keep meaning to take some thin leather and build both a "beard" and a hat to rivet onto at least one of mine, just haven't got to it yet.

MIG is definitely a different animal than stick for visibility; the only angle I've found that works is to be alongside the weld path, not behind it - from there you can tell if your stickout is right, if your slight rearward tilt of the wire is right, etc - it DOES make it a bit harder to keep the bead STRAIGHT, but not impossible. If you want even MORE "fun", try a full size spool gun 10 feet in the air with a 6-7 mph wind - the plywood in the background was clamped to the .120 wall 2" tubing to block some wind; I also upped the gas to around 25 scfh instead of the usual 18-20. Can't really blame the vertical on wind, I just suck at vertical up... These others (all untouched after weld) were inside with normal mig gun, MM252/.035 Lincoln L56 wire/C25 gas -
This is the roof frame where they eventually ended up -


I'm now on my second and third MIG, bought the first one (now belongs to a friend) at least 10 years ago and since then I've used stick maybe TWICE - everything else gets done with the same combo mentioned above, from welding 14 ga. fence wire to emt conduit, up to 3/4" flat bar for 20 ton bending jigs. Best advice I ever got was from Jody at weldingtipsandtricks.com - specifically, to stay at the front of the puddle (in direction of travel), and NOT assume you're getting penetration unless you SEE the arc touch the parent metal.

HTH... Steve

 

[searcyfarms]

yea i had it down against my chest but when i look to try to get around teh edge of the piece im working on to see the tip/puddle i find i move more than i did with stick and those angles are letting in more light, i do notice it on the stick but not as much with my older helmet with the smaller flip down screen, im thinking im going to have to pop rivet some leather on or something to block it if not go to a smallr window and different helmet

 

[searcyfarms]

i probably wont venture down the road of flux core, if i want to make splatter i will do that with my stick, i got it mainly for doing thin and portable stuff. i will probably get some flux core for a pinch to be more portable for thin stuff but i still am amazed at how different it is to weld at poor angles vs getting a stick into a place you need it to be, very different for sure, time will help me get the knack but i dont see this replacing my stick welding anytime soon

 

[searcyfarms]

when transitioning to mig like me..............dont do this!!!:mur:

 

[yomax4]

That happens whether you are transitioning or not. Happened today. Bigger spools have less cast and helix so they are a little more manageable.

 

[searcyfarms]

im glad im not the only one, i almost said a bad word

 

[coxhaus]

You are not the only one, just cut it off and move on.

If it is an older spool then sometimes it is a good thing as the top layers build up corrosion which can cause bad things.

 

[Big Barn]

Been there done that. Little rolls can be finicky to handle especially when you’re in one of your “all thumbs”modes
LOL.

As coxhaus said snip and move on.