Buying Advice Buying a tractor

   / Buying a tractor #11  
Looking at buying a tractor. I have a few acres that I need to move a bunch of dirt around and then going to make some pasture area, and garden areas I have about 1000' of gravel dirt driveway. Winter time will be moving snow.

I'm looking for operational feedback on some tractors with FEL.

These "which brand" threads are seldom helpful. You will likely make a better decision if you define a "few acres", describe your topography, describe how much dirt and how far you need to move it and the size garden you want.

With some recommendations as to tractor weight and horsepower, you can then shop across brands.






The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Neophyte tractor operators are often intimidated by instability of tractors with small front wheels and large rear wheels, therefore frequently purchase tractors too light, too small for long term satisfaction. ((Tractors seem to shrink after about twenty hours of operating experience.))

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound. Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.
 
   / Buying a tractor
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I'm on 5 acres. I have about 200yds of soft dirt and rock to move out of a big pile and just spread it out so it isn't in a big mound. Land is mostly flat but very rocky everything from gravel size to 2' boulders. Most being between softballs and basket balls. I have a lot of trees and brush. Garden area is about 100x50 and the pasture area once the dirt gets spread out will be about 1.5 - 2 acres.

I'm not really looking for which brand is better I know they all have their pluses and minuses and all of them are decent. The Kioti is the heaviest of all of them and that is one of the main reasons it's at the top of my list. Also it winds up in the end being one of the least expensive both per pound and actual cost wise.

Dealer is 45min away but nearly everything around here is at least 30min away. I'm not afraid of working on my own equipment I do it for a living. I've also operated many pieces of heavy equipment.
 
   / Buying a tractor #13  
Did you look at the LSMT225e? Much more tractor / weight, more suitable for what you describe doing. Another plus right now is LS just announced financing at $0 down, 0% interest, 84 months. Here is a link to one at a good price https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/122023711/2020-ls-mt225e
You do not mention your location, so hard to pinpoint prices around your area.
Another member here just purchased a new LS MT125 with loader, BH, and MMM for $17,600, shipped free from over a 1000 miles away.
 
   / Buying a tractor #15  
I'm on 5 acres. I have about 200yds of soft dirt and rock to move out of a big pile and just spread it out so it isn't in a big mound. Land is mostly flat but very rocky everything from gravel size to 2' boulders. Most being between softballs and basket balls. I have a lot of trees and brush. Garden area is about 100x50 and the pasture area once the dirt gets spread out will be about 1.5 - 2 acres.

I'm not really looking for which brand is better I know they all have their pluses and minuses and all of them are decent. The Kioti is the heaviest of all of them and that is one of the main reasons it's at the top of my list. Also it winds up in the end being one of the least expensive both per pound and actual cost wise.

If you do not think the two (2) range HST transmission on the Kioti 2510 will be limiting, I think your choice is made. HST is preferred transmission if you will operate a PTO powered roto-tiller, which seems probable, as you can operate tractor at creep speed while tiller churns.


A FEL bucket toothbar attachment will substantially reduce strain on your FEL and reduce wear on bucket lip breaking up dirt piles and prizing out rocks. Budget for a Box Blade or Rear/Angle blade for distributing dirt. With your rocks, probably a Rear/Angle blade, which will allow you to windrow rocks in the future pasture. Weight per unit of width is your friend with ground engagement implements.

LINK: W.R. Long, Inc. | Tooth Bar & Wear Blades

VIDEO: compact tractor rear angle blade windrowing - YouTube
 
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   / Buying a tractor #16  
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   / Buying a tractor #17  
Thanks, I'll take a look.

I'm in Washington State.

Would be helpful if you would add that general location "Washington state" to your TBN profile
 
   / Buying a tractor
  • Thread Starter
#18  
I plan on getting a tooth bar for sure and also a tiller and either a box blade or rear blade. I'm in Central Washington.
 

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