Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[goeduck]

I think there's differing opinions on that...

I cut mostly hardwood, and there's no way my 562 would pull a 32" bar in my tree's...

SR

I would agree with that on a 60cc. My 70cc struggles with a 32 inch bar and I know I am pushing it, but I do not want to buy a larger saw for a few times a year I need it.

 

[Skeans1]

I would agree with that on a 60cc. My 70cc struggles with a 32 inch bar and I know I am pushing it, but I do not want to buy a larger saw for a few times a year I need it.

What kind of chain are you running? What sequence? What rim sprocket is on the power head can all make a difference.

 

[dfkrug]

You have Redwoods down in Liberty? That's good to know, I thought that I would need to head for the west coast to see one.

Well there are redwoods, and then there are Redwoods. This one is 361' tall, in Humboldt County, CA. Photo from last fall.

Seeing the big ones should be on everyone's bucket list. When first discovered, folks back East thought the stories of such trees were "tall tales".

 

[Gordon Gould]

Well there are redwoods, and then there are Redwoods. This one is 361' tall, in Humboldt County, CA. Photo from last fall.

Seeing the big ones should be on everyone's bucket list. When first discovered, folks back East thought the stories of such trees were "tall tales"

I have to agree with that. My daughter moved out to Marblemount, WA in 93. Our first time out west for a visit we were totally awe stricken by the trees. And every trip out since then it is the same thing over again.

gg

 

[hunt4570]

I think the Henry would probably win that contest. But itç—´ out of commission the whole time youæ±*e doing it. If youæ±*e in a Wild West shoutout the gate loaders have the advantage of being able to stick in a couple rounds when you have the chance without disabling your gun.

Yeah, not a fan of the way Henrys load at all!

 

[hunt4570]

I would agree with that on a 60cc. My 70cc struggles with a 32 inch bar and I know I am pushing it, but I do not want to buy a larger saw for a few times a year I need it.

I guess I'm either too old, or just too weak for one that size!( and I've had both my shoulders worked on). I've a MS362 59cc, it came with a 24" bar and that's a bit big for me, just bought a new bar and chain yesterday, got a 20 incher and don't really want a bigger one.

 

[John_Mc]

Most of these same techniques work in shorter smaller wood as well. What works on steep ground works on flat ground all techniques transfer over the same. What痴 always amazed me is how far behind the East Coast is on practices as well as on safety when it comes to the industry.

I've been letting most of these comments go, willing to chalk it up to different trees/different terrain call for different techniques. However "how far behind the East Coast is on practices as well as safety"? Around here, you'd get shut down or losing your insurance for using a sizwheel or some of the other techniques you are advocating, since they require you to remain at the stump as the tree starts to fall. (The sponsor of GOL training in Maine is Maine Employers Mutual Insurance Company - MEMIC. Why would an insurance company be pushing a technique that is unsafe? That would just be costing them big time in claims.)

And you don't like GOL techniques. I get it. You've got different situations and you've learned and used practices over the years that fit those situations. You need to adapt your techniques to the situation at hand. If you understand the "why" of what you are doing as well as the "how" of the technique (as you certainly seem to) you are better prepared to adapt that technique to unique situations. I'm not one of those GOL fan-boys who think it's the only safe way to fell a tree. However, it is successfully taught to people who have never operated a chainsaw before. There are good reasons for that, as well as good reasons why insurance companies push the technique and give discounts to even very experienced operators who go through the GOL training. It works well, it works well on the trees we have around here. I can't comment on its effectiveness for the type of logging you do out in the PNW, but since I'm not cutting out there, I don't spend a lot of time worrying about it.

 

[hunt4570]

I've been letting most of these comments go, willing to chalk it up to different trees/different terrain call for different techniques. However "how far behind the East Coast is on practices as well as safety"? Around here, you'd get shut down or losing your insurance for using a sizwheel or some of the other techniques you are advocating, since they require you to remain at the stump as the tree starts to fall. (The sponsor of GOL training in Maine is Maine Employers Mutual Insurance Company - MEMIC. Why would an insurance company be pushing a technique that is unsafe? That would just be costing them big time in claims.)

And you don't like GOL techniques. I get it. You've got different situations and you've learned and used practices over the years that fit those situations. You need to adapt your techniques to the situation at hand. If you understand the "why" of what you are doing as well as the "how" of the technique (as you certainly seem to) you are better prepared to adapt that technique to unique situations. I'm not one of those GOL fan-boys who think it's the only safe way to fell a tree. However, it is successfully taught to people who have never operated a chainsaw before. There are good reasons for that, as well as good reasons why insurance companies push the technique and give discounts to even very experienced operators who go through the GOL training. It works well, it works well on the trees we have around here. I can't comment on its effectiveness for the type of logging you do out in the PNW, but since I'm not cutting out there, I don't spend a lot of time worrying about it.

I've never heard of that GOL techniques before but I am at best an advanced homeowner/landowner at all this stuff. So I googled it. Looks very good and wish I could have taken that kind of training some 20 years ago or so!! Copied a link for others that might not of heard of it either.

Courses - Game of Logging Chain Saw Safety Training - Level 1

 

[John_Mc]

Gee I dont think I'd like a square sharpen chain, I think saw chains cut better when sharpened with slight hook, when chain cuts better then thats what I'd want on a small saw like my Ehco 501 and 550xp then adjust the cut speed by the rakers and tooth top angle to chainsaw hp. I do sometimes in muddy wood square up the top angle a little but not the front cut angle, always a hook.

Square is great stuff it痴 so much smoother cutting, faster, and great for using a smaller saw. The depth gauges I値l do fresh off the roll of chain stock chain doesn稚 cut hardly at all without pressure I want a chain to self feed why make the job harder then it needs to be. With a chain like that I値l use a 562 with a 32 bar without issues.

I am with Skeans on this one. Square ground chains just cut faster than round ground, just as round-ground full chisel cuts faster than round ground semi-chisel. I don't have a whole lot of experience with square ground chains, but I have used them from time to time on a friend's saw. Some pro loggers here in the Northeast do use them. I've not made the switch myself because I find it much easier to sharpen round ground chains than square ground. AS I understand it, square ground chains are VERY sensitive to using the proper sharpening technique, getting all your angles just right, etc. Maybe Skeans or other who regularly use them can comment on this. I'm also curious if square ground holds up as well over time, particularly in hardwoods or dirty wood. My impression is that it's maybe slightly less durable than full chisel in dirty wood situations (though not as big a step as the difference between semi-chisel and full chisel in dirty wood).

Since I'm not doing this for a living, the slight advantage I would gain from going to square ground chain hasn't been enough to make me switch to it. I mostly hand-sharpen in the field. I enjoy the break that stopping to sharpen a chain forces on me. That's usually when I notice that I'm getting thirsty/hungry/tired and need to address those issues before continuing. (I have a bad habit of getting caught up in my work and forgetting to eat and drink, but I will notice a chain starting to lose its edge right away.)

 

[Gordon Gould]

I've been letting most of these comments go, willing to chalk it up to different trees/different terrain call for different techniques. However "how far behind the East Coast is on practices as well as safety"? Around here, you'd get shut down or losing your insurance for using a sizwheel or some of the other techniques you are advocating, since they require you to remain at the stump as the tree starts to fall. (The sponsor of GOL training in Maine is Maine Employers Mutual Insurance Company - MEMIC. Why would an insurance company be pushing a technique that is unsafe? That would just be costing them big time in claims.)

And you don't like GOL techniques. I get it. You've got different situations and you've learned and used practices over the years that fit those situations. You need to adapt your techniques to the situation at hand. If you understand the "why" of what you are doing as well as the "how" of the technique (as you certainly seem to) you are better prepared to adapt that technique to unique situations. I'm not one of those GOL fan-boys who think it's the only safe way to fell a tree. However, it is successfully taught to people who have never operated a chainsaw before. There are good reasons for that, as well as good reasons why insurance companies push the technique and give discounts to even very experienced operators who go through the GOL training. It works well, it works well on the trees we have around here. I can't comment on its effectiveness for the type of logging you do out in the PNW, but since I'm not cutting out there, I don't spend a lot of time worrying about it.

I also thought that was an interesting opinion. I agree with John that GOL is a great way to start and there is nothing inherently unsafe about it. The problem is the same as in any other method - you have to be able to recognize when it won't do what you want or will put you in danger. It is a very good method to have in your tool kit though- for many all they need or want. We may be easterners from the land of whimpy trees but we do know how to cut them. Here is a little tree - a good leaner. Tough to wedge over but a Dutchman worked fine.



gg