Cutting a large log in half.

[dodge man]

I am not a big wood cutter, I would just guess a cord of split wood lasts me two to three years., but I am always trying to learn. I have an 18 bar on my saw and do not want to go bigger. So say you are cutting a larger log in half that is laying on the ground. So I will cut it into fire wood length pieces from each side most of the way through the log. The roll it over and start from the top and try and finish the cut.

About 75% of the time this works great, rest of the time I miss the cut from the other side by varying amounts and waste a lot of time trying to finish the cut. Is there some trick to get the cuts to line up other than just eyeballing it?

 

[Jchonline]

What’s the diameter on the log you are cutting? How are you splitting this?

The fist thing that comes to mind is something to mark. Such as a Mingo Marker. Google it.

 

[s219]

Maybe don't roll it over so far for your second set of cuts. Normally when I do this, I can look around the side of the log and see the "slot" from the first cut. Then I will either stick the nose of the bar into that slot and continue it -- so that the first cut serves as the template for the second -- or eyeball it with an easy visual. Always results in a clean or nearly clean cut.

 

[ericm979]

I miss the cut from the other side by varying amounts and waste a lot of time trying to finish the cut. Is there some trick to get the cuts to line up other than just eyeballing it?

I don't cut all the way through to avoid running the bar into the ground. Then I roll the log over so the uncut part is on top (roughly) and make the second cuts by sticking the bar into the first cut and cutting upwards. It makes the cuts line up neatly and also pinches the bar less often.

 

[dennis103]

look up timberjack. I just got one and love it

 

[Gator6x4]

Order a Wooden Handle Peavey from Northern Tools. Make the first cut with the saw, then roll the log with the peavey until you can stick the bar into the previous cut slot and continue cutting and rolling until the cut is complete. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...MI2Lb904P16AIVGYnICh3RlgNhEAQYAyABEgJkpfD_BwE

 

[dodge man]

Some that I just cut up were about 30” in diameter. I did some noodling on some of the big pieces and had more problems when doing that. I have a hydraulic splitter but it is a horizontal unit only.

 

[Captain Dirty]

I don't cut all the way through to avoid running the bar into the ground. Then I roll the log over so the uncut part is on top (roughly) and make the second cuts by sticking the bar into the first cut and cutting upwards. It makes the cuts line up neatly and also pinches the bar less often.

Depends on the size of the log. If the log is small I often can put my left toe under it and lift enough to suspend the portion to be cut. (Obviously keep the foot well back from the cut.)
If the log can be easily handled I often put it atop other logs so the piece to be cut is suspended, or, if supported at both ends so that the tension side is at the bottom, there is an air gap beneath it and I cut upwards. In any event a downward cut goes into air or other wood, not the ground.
Larger logs I cut from one side and then roll with a cant hook or peavey, often rolling the subject log onto blocks made of other logs. Often I put the nose into the old kerf as described above.
With experience you will become adept as recognizing the forces in the logs as to when to pull the saw out before it binds and wether to cut up or down. Remember to quit while you are ahead. Fatigue induced lapses of judgment can be grave.

 

[Diggin It]

^^ Nuh Uh ... my feets don't go no where's near no logs that-a-way.

I'll use smaller pieces, 8-10" diameter or less, a couple of feet long as supports. Lay the bigger logs on them so that I can cut clean through. Even just using one will raise the end the target log off the ground enough to clear. Use the loader or other tools to reposition as necessary.

 

[oldballs]

I lift the log with the forks on my Kubota......works for me.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[oosik]

Back in the day - I fell and cut my big 'ol Ponderosa pines for firewood. Some are up to 40" on the butt. I had a MONSTER Stihl with a 28" bar. All notching had to be done from two sides. I'd measure the fallen tree for each cut. Cut the tree into 10' sections. Cut as far down as possible - rotate the section with the tractor - find the cut slot - complete the cut.

After doing this for a couple years - I fell back to the 16" to 24" trees. A whole lot less bother. A whole lot easier to fell.

 

[ericm979]

With experience you will become adept as recognizing the forces in the logs as to when to pull the saw out before it binds and wether to cut up or down. .

Watch the kerf as you cut. You can see it getting narrower (or wider) before it pinches the bar.

I bought a good peavy (actually a combination cant hook/peavy). It makes working with logs and big rounds so much easier.

 

[Egon]

Either get a longer bar or refine your cutting methods. Think about what you are doing.

 

[Motorboatin]

 

[Motorboatin]

 

[dodge man]

Either get a longer bar or refine your cutting methods. Think about what you are doing.

I think I’m doing it the right way, you said it when you said think about what you are doing. It’s easy to zone out some times.

 

[Captain Dirty]

Some that I just cut up were about 30 in diameter. I did some noodling on some of the big pieces and had more problems when doing that. I have a hydraulic splitter but it is a horizontal unit only.

Having a horizontal-only splitter myself I have come up with some work-arounds. My slitter is "T" shaped; the axle is under the motor and the ram moves along a beam that is the "towbar". Some splitters have the beam over the axle so the wheels can get in the way. If you have space beside the beam, cut logs as long as the beam is high and place them on end to form "tables" on either side of the beam. Manhandling logs onto the tables is far easier than directly onto the beam.

A 30" diameter log is big and heavy. A linear foot of dry, seasoned pine (32#/cuft) would weigh around 160 lbs. Green hardwood could go 3X as heavy. My recommendation is to split the firebox length log into manageable pieces using splitting wedges and maul. Frozen wood splits more easily, and "wood warms you twice". Wait til Winter. You may balk at the cost of 3 wedges and a maul for the amount of wood you use. They are useful tools. If the splitter fails to cleanly cleave a log, a well placed blow from the maul may be less work than handling the piece back onto the splitter. Also, the tools will probably last generations (I'm using my grandfather's). Besides, how did you rationalize the cost of the splitter?

 

[BrokenTrack]

I realize this is not worth it for you, as the cost is greater than what your need is, but for others:

I use my log loader to lift my wood to waist height. What I found is, not only is this better for my back, prevents dulling my saw, and eliminates bar pinching, it is incredibly fast. I can cut up wood in 1/3 the time over having it on the ground. Having it at waist height makes all the difference.

This is not the best photo because I am moving softwood logs, but people can see how it is a small log loader, but can lift logs for fast cutting without hurting your back, dulling your saw, or pinching your bar.

 

[dodge man]

This is my splitter. It does have room for tables made out of logs on the sides. This is a really good idea. They offered extensions for my splitter at one time that would have made a table but they no longer make the same model. Bending over to pick up large chunks that need split again is a pain. I could fab something but don’t want to mess with it.

Getting them on the splitter isn’t an issue. The big stuff I cut in half, noodling. I then use my end loader to lift them to the splitter. It’s a little awkward but works. I do have steel wedges and a splitting maul. For straight grained stuff that would work but there always seem to be knots and twisted grain that makes manual splitting hard.

 

[Captain Dirty]

<snip> I do have steel wedges and a splitting maul. For straight grained stuff that would work but there always seem to be knots and twisted grain that makes manual splitting hard.

Cousin Murphy hangs out in my woodpile too. Gnarly grain determines if it is stove wood, fireplace wood, or burn pit material.

I haven't tried noodling in years; as you mentioned earlier, it is problematic. My son finally killed my 266SE milling poplar logs, and that was with ripping chain.