Do I need to get a 220v mig

[Tractorable]

I bought a dual voltage Millermatic 211 MIG last year which is the best of both worlds. I went with MIG because I’m restoring and old Land Cruiser FJ40 and MIG is great for auto body work. The 211 is also stout enough for heavier tractor work on 220V but as other posters already said MIG likes clean metal so I make it a point to take anything I weld down to bare metal first. I might pick up a 220V stick welder at some point to increase my options.

 

[rangerfredbob]

Out of curiosity, did you try a different roll of wire in it? Apparently there was a batch of them that were shipped out with wire that was garbage and that caused a lot of them to have issues very much like you're describing.

Aaron Z

He said stick welder and I know what he is talking about since I have one (blue and about the same size as the flux core unit)... on 110V the only rod I could get to work with it were 1/16" which are short and a pain to use being so flexible... I do know what you mean on the flux core welders, they are picky on wire, I've found they are more picky on diameter than brand, once I switched to .035" it was a game changer...

 

[aczlan]

He said stick welder and I know what he is talking about since I have one (blue and about the same size as the flux core unit)... on 110V the only rod I could get to work with it were 1/16" which are short and a pain to use being so flexible... I do know what you mean on the flux core welders, they are picky on wire, I've found they are more picky on diameter than brand, once I switched to .035" it was a game changer...

Well, that's what I get for misreading...

Aaron Z

 

[1 of U]

like anything else you should pick the right tool for the job , as a welder at work and a home machinist ,fabricator & welder
that builds most of my bobcat & tractor attachments I would tell anyone to look on their local Craigslist, look for a good 220 machine
preferably a 250 amp machine , a good stick welder a AC-DC if you can get one for 250.00 or less , and for sure pick up a 220 AC
machine , a Lincoln Tombstone welder I've welded tons of 7018 on some of those welders . Best thing is spend good money once
if you buy cheap that's what you end up with cheap shxt the burns up and quits working ..
good luck and run those stringers ...

 

[aczlan]

For $375 (probably less if you ask "Mark at Everlast" on here for the TBN discount) you can buy a Everlast PowerArc 200 STi.
That will do 0-200 amps of DC stick and (in my experience) will give you a much nicer weld than a tombstone.

Aaron Z

 

[MossRoad]

Hello,

I have a Miller 140 and have loved it until had to do some welding on my bucket and had to load some flux wire and still had some trouble getting a good weld. I am a relative noob to welding, but I am learning. Will the Harbor Freight 220v MIG make me happy welding 1/4"?

Thanks John.

I have a cheap 220v stick welder. Maybe I need to get it out and learn. Thanks for the info.

My nephew keeps nagging me to get on the stick welder! I guess I better get practicing. Thanks.

Before spending a lot of money, I'd get someone that knows how to stick weld to come over and see how your stick welder does. It could save you many hundreds of dollars.

I have a Hobart Handler 140 that runs on 110V that I use for most tacking and light welds. And, I have an old Craftsman AC/DC arc welder I bought new when I was 18 that I use for anything heavier than I feel comfortable with from the 110v wire feed machine. It still works 40+ years later.

Try what you have first.

 

[sd455dan]

Hello,

I have a Miller 140 and have loved it until had to do some welding on my bucket and had to load some flux wire and still had some trouble getting a good weld. I am a relative noob to welding, but I am learning. Will the Harbor Freight 220v MIG make me happy welding 1/4"?

Thanks John.

It might - but HF new warranty is poor...


We guarantee this product to be free from defects in materials and workmanship 90 days from the date of purchase. Limitations apply.

I do not understand why HF pulled some of their Vulcan warranties back to 90 days.


My son just had me order a new 3 in 1 "Hitbox" MIG 250, Its his money so he can do as he wants.

Amazon description says 230 amps output, ebay says 200 amps- this on a $275 welder:confused2: If this produces an honest 175 amps stick and MIG and lasts a couple years I will be impressed. Especially if it will run decent beads.

 

[BrokenTrack]

If it was me, and that is all I was doing was rebuilding a bucket, and not a lot of welding after that, I would just stick with the 120 volt welder and make it work. It just might mean multiple passes, but that is not so bad.

But as welders, there is something to be said for higher voltage. Really, we do not have much to work with. We can change the process (Stick, MIG, TIG, etc), and we can change our filler rod (6010, 6011, 7018, 12018, etc), and we can fuss with out electricity. Those three things are about all we can do. So to have more power available, the more we can work with it.

That is somewhat changing however, as inverter welders now, are getting DC frequencies in the 100,000 per second range and can manipulate it through digital, instead of analog controls. This is fairly new to me, but with the right welder now, a person can do almost as much with 120 volt versus 240 volt just because the conversion process from AC to DC power is so much more efficient. But it depends on the inverter welder too.

People would be surprised to learn that at home I use a AC stick welder for all my welding needs. The reason for that is, as a retired welder, I am used to 480 volts of 3 phase power. Since there is no way I could get that at home, I do not even try, and just get by with an old AC stick machine. But a good weld, no matter how it is made, will hold a lot.

 

[Demented]

Although there is a lot of negative information about Eastwood welders, 99% of it is old; as in 2013-2017 old. They've come quite a ways since then. I just picked up a MIG175 with a spool gun for aluminum for $550 a few weeks ago. During the unboxing and assembly, the part and build quality looks as good or better than anything else in it's class.

If I do my part, it lays down some really nice beads. For some reason, the arc seems a little louder than other machines but is completely stable and I was able to lay down a good bead on some 18ga using .030 wire without burning through. Pretty impressive. Eastwood says that you can go down to 24ga using .023 wire. The next time I get my hands on some, I'm going to have to give it a try. On the other end of the scale, it is rated for 5/16" mild steel in a single pass. However, I preheated a piece of 3/8 for a minute with a torch and cranked the amperage up and got full penetration with one pass.They also claim that it can run .030 or .035 flux-core wire if you don't have a bottle. The only downside is that this is a 240V only machine.

They have as good of a warranty as anybody in their class plus a "weld free for 30 days" trial period. Right now they have them on sale for $520. They might be worth a look.

 

[lennyzx11]

Before spending a lot of money, I'd get someone that knows how to stick weld to come over and see how your stick welder does. It could save you many hundreds of dollars.

I have a Hobart Handler 140 that runs on 110V that I use for most tacking and light welds. And, I have an old Craftsman AC/DC arc welder I bought new when I was 18 that I use for anything heavier than I feel comfortable with from the 110v wire feed machine. It still works 40+ years later.

Try what you have first.

I love new stuff. But I have to agree with this. Try what you have and learn the techniques to use it.

My Hobart 210MVP seems to trip a breaker when I attempt to use 110 seriously. Switch to 220 and it’s an animal.

My tombstone AC/DC is at least 40 years old that I know of. Don’t use it much but pulled it out the other day to deep weld some rusty channel iron.

I do have to say though. I splurged and bought (used) a speed glass auto darkening helmet.
That is the bestest greatest most awesomeness thing ever to help your welding!

 

[California]

...I splurged and bought (used) a speed glass auto darkening helmet. That is the bestest greatest most awesomeness thing ever to help your welding!

Tell us more! I'm impressed.

 

[GSVette]

Love my Speedglass-bought used, got some new lens protectors and a new sweatband-nicest helmet I have owned.

 

[WranglerX]

I love new stuff. But I have to agree with this. Try what you have and learn the techniques to use it.

My Hobart 210MVP seems to trip a breaker when I attempt to use 110 seriously. Switch to 220 and it痴 an animal.

My tombstone AC/DC is at least 40 years old that I know of. Don稚 use it much but pulled it out the other day to deep weld some rusty channel iron.

I do have to say though. I splurged and bought (used) a speed glass auto darkening helmet.
That is the bestest greatest most awesomeness thing ever to help your welding!

The 210MPV on 120 volts draws about 24 amps at max setting.... Same as Handler 140 I have, had to install dedicated 30 amp breaker/receptacle, everything is great after that.....

Dale

 

[TractorGuy]

I've got a little Lincoln SP100 mig. I started with flux core and upgraded it to shielding gas. I haven't found anything I can't build or repair with it.

I welded the thumb on my 15,000 lb backhoe several years ago and it has held up fine. The base metal on the thumb is 5/8". I have lifted stumps that were heavy enough to lift the front wheels off the ground. I have a good many hours of stump and log lifting on it with no signs of fatigue.

For thick metal I just clean it up good, bevel the weld area, and make multiple passes. I've never pre heated anything.

 

[3Ts]

Auto darkening helmets are awesome! Anyone that does welding should have one.

I have a Hobart MIG welder with a 50 amp plug, but I've run it off a 30 amp circuit, just can't use it at it's full capabilities.

 

[Sodo]

Great feedback! Thank you so much.

- When I have to do this again I will try the preheat. It is a good tip. I was actually doing the opposite. I was waiting for the metal to cool down between segments.
- I will get a new ground clamp, cheap insurance.
- removing the cup, would never have thought about that.
- I did clean the metal.
- I got the job done but I as soon I get time I want to practice some these tips.
Again thanks for the help.

If you want to learn stick, you won't be disappointed, it's a challenge, and can be fun.
But it will set you back on your "repairs" timewise.
It's like saying you have to learn to chop wood with an axe before using a chainsaw.
Chopping can be useful on a stump roots for example, where the dirt will destroy your chain instantly.

If you are going to spend money, get a gas bottle for your Miller 140 and you will up your game considerably.
Miller 140 is a quality machine.
It can weld 1/4 very well, and even a little thicker with technique and pre-heat.

Focusing on MIG is a far better use of your time.
Stick welding will take a LOT of time - and until you master it, your "repairs" will be all covered with bird poop.
I'ts been what, 40years( ?) since any viable factory has used stick welding.

Its a vintage art, and has its place. If you WANT to learn it, it will certainly help, as anything, even oxy/acet gas welding, it all helps understanding.
But focusing on your MIG will get you repairing things well much faster.
It's barely worth the effort in comparison.

The only people who tell you stick welding is worth learning are those who already put in the time to learn it - and they want you to suffer too.
MUCH faster to put your study and practice time into MIG welding, you can be MIG welding in 1/10 the time maybe 1/20th.
Watch YouTubes and go practice.
Even better if you can do ^^THAT^^ and get a welder to show you some things in person.

Learn the machine you have.
PLUS, it's a Miller 140, a fine machine - that can do it well (not some POS $200 bargain unit)

Here's teaching an 18-year old to weld (making a log grate for the woodstove).
This is her first time welding with about one hour of 'assistance' ( I am NOT a pro welder ).
I bent the rebar and she welded.
Those welds are using gas (not flux-core).
The grate is in the fireplace now.

You might post a pic of the bucket you're welding, or at least tell us how wide it is or describe the tractor.
Some (large) buckets are better suited to a 220v welder.
If it's easy to get 220v where you're welding, a machine that welds on either 110v or 220v is nice to have.

 

[WranglerX]

Dittos on the 120/240 volt machines... I have Hobart Handler 140 and it suffices for about 98% of the time, but the is the 2% I wish I had 240 volt capabilities (more heat).... Maybe someday a Handler 210MVP will find it's way to my shop...

Dale

 

[chim]

I don't visit this part of the board very often, but can tell you my experience as a wannabe weldor. From the 70's till about 10 years ago my welding was all done with an old AC Lincoln tombstone at the in-law's farm. Then I splurged on a Millermatic 175 and a gas bottle. Most of the time I use fluxcore wire because I don't have a safe place to weld indoors. The one big exception was when I took the machine to work for a couple months to build a cab in my spare time.;

Anyway, the guys who weld for a living at our shop helped me pick the machine and it's been very handy. I ran a 240V dryer outlet to the garage and have a 10ga cord so it can be used outdoors. The strength of the welds has not been an issue. Here are a few pics of a recent project. The very rugged QA frame for the brush forks was found cheap on Facebook Marketplace. I added a headache rack and a couple 4" channel stiffeners just in case.

The fork times are 48" bale spears. The internally tapered bushings are welded to the bottom of the frame. I didn't trust relying on welds where the radius of the bushing meets the flat of the bottom tube, so I cut some pieces of plate to catch them at 9:00 and 12:00. Then made triangular gussets to catch the front of the bushing where it protrudes past the frame.

I had some lifting that was too far for the FEL, so I rigged up a pipe for extra reach. The ends of the pipe deformed from the pressure and essentially shortened it a tad. That caused the two chains carrying the load to slack up and the weight on the end of the pipe pulled the spear down somewhere around 6" at the tip. Following that my nephew was helping me with another tree and a large section of the trunk was stubborn. A different spear deflected about the same amount. Surprisingly the welds held up just fine and the spears sprung back to their original shape.

 

[Rebeldad1]

If you are looking for a stick welder like the Tombstone make sure you get ac/dc. My personal experience is dc does a much better job.
also
Seems never mentioned there is ac and dc rods. Make sure you match up to your setting on the welder.
You can do an awful lot of welding with a stick welder.

 

[aczlan]

I don't visit this part of the board very often, but can tell you my experience as a wannabe weldor. From the 70's till about 10 years ago my welding was all done with an old AC Lincoln tombstone at the in-law's farm. Then I splurged on a Millermatic 175 and a gas bottle. Most of the time I use fluxcore wire because I don't have a safe place to weld indoors. The one big exception was when I took the machine to work for a couple months to build a cab in my spare time.;

Anyway, the guys who weld for a living at our shop helped me pick the machine and it's been very handy. I ran a 240V dryer outlet to the garage and have a 10ga cord so it can be used outdoors. The strength of the welds has not been an issue. Here are a few pics of a recent project. The very rugged QA frame for the brush forks was found cheap on Facebook Marketplace. I added a headache rack and a couple 4" channel stiffeners just in case.

The fork times are 48" bale spears. The internally tapered bushings are welded to the bottom of the frame. I didn't trust relying on welds where the radius of the bushing meets the flat of the bottom tube, so I cut some pieces of plate to catch them at 9:00 and 12:00. Then made triangular gussets to catch the front of the bushing where it protrudes past the frame.

I had some lifting that was too far for the FEL, so I rigged up a pipe for extra reach. The ends of the pipe deformed from the pressure and essentially shortened it a tad. That caused the two chains carrying the load to slack up and the weight on the end of the pipe pulled the spear down somewhere around 6" at the tip. Following that my nephew was helping me with another tree and a large section of the trunk was stubborn. A different spear deflected about the same amount. Surprisingly the welds held up just fine and the spears sprung back to their original shape.

Have you had that fork setup long?
Need to make a set of forks for the front of our tractor and I'm planning on using bale spears like that, but wasn't sure if I could get away with them on the bottom (probably welded to a piece of 4x4 tube, or a piece of heavy C channel) or if I needed to go through the plate.


Aaron Z