Oil & Fuel Kioti tight factory filters

[John Skull]

There are a few discussions on the forum about how hard it is to get the hydraulic and hydrostatic transmission filters off a Kioti. Forum member TJP89 had a great tip in an old thread that worked for me so I thought I'd repeat it here to help others.

Razor knife or blade. Use the razor to go around the accessible areas of the filters where the rubber gasket meets the sealing surface. Try to keep to the metal side and don't get too aggressive that you'd scratch the sealing surface. For me it was just enough to get it moving. I used the Kobalt rubber strap wrenches available at Lowe's (under $20) - these are pretty nice and heavy duty. I still had to get both straps on the filter but before using the razor there was no way the filters would budge without damage. Put the big strap right at the filter base by threading it through the obstructions etc and the small one can go anywhere else. The combo of 2 strap wrenches after the razor job did the trick for the crazy tight originals.:irked:

My CK2610H has about 150 hrs and I decided to change out the fluid with Mobilfluid 424 (good price at Summit Racing) and I notice the hydraulics running smoother and quieter.

 

[fried1765]

There are a few discussions on the forum about how hard it is to get the hydraulic and hydrostatic transmission filters off a Kioti. Forum member TJP89 had a great tip in an old thread that worked for me so I thought I'd repeat it here to help others.

Razor knife or blade. Use the razor to go around the accessible areas of the filters where the rubber gasket meets the sealing surface. Try to keep to the metal side and don't get too aggressive that you'd scratch the sealing surface. For me it was just enough to get it moving. I used the Kobalt rubber strap wrenches available at Lowe's (under $20) - these are pretty nice and heavy duty. I still had to get both straps on the filter but before using the razor there was no way the filters would budge without damage. Put the big strap right at the filter base by threading it through the obstructions etc and the small one can go anywhere else. The combo of 2 strap wrenches after the razor job did the trick for the crazy tight originals.:irked:

My CK2610H has about 150 hrs and I decided to change out the fluid with Mobilfluid 424 (good price at Summit Racing) and I notice the hydraulics running smoother and quieter.

Vise grip chain wrench is simple and quick.

 

[John Skull]

Vise grip chain wrench is simple and quick.

True but in my case I didn't want to destroy or damage the filters. Good thing cause I had to reinstall the left side one since I had bought the wrong one.

 

[rademamj1]

Good feed back on removing those tight and difficult factory filters. I was not aware that a box cutter blade could greatly reduce the effort on these factory filters. Mine were so tight, I spent 60% of the time for hydraulic fluid change on just factory filter removal. The replacement filters went on effortlessly.

 

[justman777]

I wound up using a heavy duty strap wrench to get mine off. I managed to damage the filters for sure, but they came off well enough. Don't know why they have to be on there so tight. Hello Kioti! Feedback here!!!!

 

[oosik]

I don't think the OEM filters are really screwed on that tight. It's that darn painting the entire frame after the filter instal that makes is so difficult. Cut & break the paint bond at the filter base - they will then come off normally.

 

[The Fred]

The filters are installed at the factory with no lubricant on the seal, that's why they come off so hard.

Tractor is bare metal, assembled then painted, every new tractor that I've done a service on is miserable to remove the filters.

 

[s219]

The filters are installed at the factory with no lubricant on the seal, that's why they come off so hard.

Tractor is bare metal, assembled then painted, every new tractor that I've done a service on is miserable to remove the filters.

I've heard the same thing, no lube on the gasket the first time. Which boggles my mind -- I would expect the gasket to get deformed or tear.

 

[John Skull]

Yep, must be a lack of any lube. I didn't notice any paint around the filter housing. I had some PB Blaster ready but never sprayed it on. They do paint the various oil drain bolts and other fasteners while spraying the chassis, making them slightly larger than normal so that on your first removal you might find that no socket of either metric or SAE will seem to fit. The paint will chip off after some work. I was also shocked how loose the main HYD/HST drain plug was. I just put a big adjustable wrench on and took very little pressure. Kioti helpfully put orange paint dots on the drain bolts to help you find them. I think the owner's manual photo indicates the HYD/HST fluid drain bolt is mounted horizontally on the lower edge of the trans case! Don't fall for it, that's a bolt holding the case together.