Just had a well put in. Thoughts appreciated

[Jstpssng]

^^^^
I believe that he was talking about poly casing, not waterline. At this point how much would you lose if you found somebody else to install the pump? It sounds like you're dealing with a rinky outfit.

 

[3Ts]

I need to address your comment about making sure the pump is open flow.

I'm pretty sure that what he meant by open flow is that there were no restrictions on the output of the pump, not that it was a type of pump. Meaning no valves or anything that could reduce the flow of water.

 

[fried1765]

^^^^
I believe that he was talking about poly casing, not waterline. At this point how much would you lose if you found somebody else to install the pump? It sounds like you're dealing with a rinky outfit.

I believe the other way,
Poly water line, and steel casing.

 

[1930]

Sorry for confusion. There is a steel casing already installed and I'm happy with that. Im now looking at the pick up tube from the pump to surface and am considering poly

 

[fried1765]

Sorry for confusion. There is a steel casing already installed and I'm happy with that. Im now looking at the pick up tube from the pump to surface and am considering poly

Use poly for water line up from the pump, without a doubt!

 

[Jstpssng]

I believe the other way,
Poly water line, and steel casing.

Not to make a big deal over it, but

In my area we use a lot of 6 inch poly piping for casing...... And a lot of threaded poly for water delivery....

 

[3Ts]

In my area, the smaller (i.e. private) wells are normally cased with PVC well casing which seems to be a special grade of pipe because it looks to be much heavier duty than either schedule 40 or 80. Most are 4" wells, but somewhere around 500' they change to 4.5" wells because it is a thicker wall pipe. All accommodate a 4" deep well pump. The commercial wells (i.e. 8" or so) are steel cased and when they set the casing they have a welder there to join the pipe sections.

 

[Xfaxman]

158 feet of casing and crystal clear water which is uncommon for my area. Driller thinks I tapped into a spring.

Now I have to deal with the contract I signed authorizing them to use galvanized pipe. Didn't know at the time that poly pipe was really a better option.

They haven't installed anything and I'm assuming poly pipe is cheaper than galv steel so maybe I can talk them out of the steel.

Part of the contract also includes a bladder tank. I need the water at this point only to fill my 275 gall ibc totes so I can water the trees I'm planting. ( I have a truck/trailer/pump)

I don't plan to start the actual building process for a year or 2.

Do you guys think it wise to just put the bladder tank in storage for the time being rather than letting it sit out in the weather?

Water table is about 55 ft. Anything else I should consider installing? Might as well do it right the first time.

I need to get water down to the other end of my property eventually which is about 600 feet and then over another 300 feet ect.

People have told me to use a 2 inch pipe

This might be what you need: Sizing a Pressure Tank with a CSV – Cycle Stop Valves, Inc

 

[1930]

This might be what you need: Sizing a Pressure Tank with a CSV – Cycle Stop Valves, Inc

Very interesting and worth considering. Id rather not have that large tank anywhere taking up space

 

[1930]

Low Water Pressure/Booster pump with constant pressure control - YouTube

 

[Diggin It]

As I understand this and recall from previous threads:

• This is unimproved, unoccupied property.
• There are no buildings or utilities.
• You're not there much of the time.
• You use a generator for power only as needed.
• For now, you only want water to fill the totes/tanks to be used for irrigation, meaning you'll only be running the pump intermittently and do not need constant pressure.

If that's all correct, I see no need for a tank/bladder to be installed. Use the generator to power the pump as long as needed to fill the tank, then kill power to the pump. The only issue may be priming the pump each time. If you install a hydrant, you'll need to leave the valve open any time the pump is running.

You might want to buy/install or build a small portable/temporary shed that should cost $500 or less.

 

[1930]

As I understand this and recall from previous threads:

• This is unimproved, unoccupied property.
• There are no buildings or utilities.
• You're not there much of the time.
• You use a generator for power only as needed.
• For now, you only want water to fill the totes/tanks to be used for irrigation, meaning you'll only be running the pump intermittently and do not need constant pressure.

If that's all correct, I see no need for a tank/bladder to be installed. Use the generator to power the pump as long as needed to fill the tank, then kill power to the pump. The only issue may be priming the pump each time. If you install a hydrant, you'll need to leave the valve open any time the pump is running.

You might want to buy/install or build a small portable/temporary shed that should cost $500 or less.

Your recollection is correct, the only thing Im unclear of at this point is whether I should install a foot valve AKA one way valve within the line so that the water does not completely drain back into the well when I unplug the generator?

 

[aczlan]

Your recollection is correct, the only thing Im unclear of at this point is whether I should install a foot valve AKA one way valve within the line so that the water does not completely drain back into the well when I unplug the generator?

Will you be using a in well pump or a pump above-ground? A in-well pump should have one built in, an above-ground pump will need one.

Aaron Z

 

[1930]

Will you be using a in well pump or a pump above-ground? A in-well pump should have one built in, an above-ground pump will need one.

Aaron Z

In ground. I thought I had seen u tubers installing valves with in ground systems? I guess I was mistaken or not same scenario. Thanks

 

[1930]

I think at this point I'm gonna ask well driller how much more I owe him for the work done thus far and just finish the work myself.

Don't know if thats feasible.

 

[3Ts]

Will you be using a in well pump or a pump above-ground? A in-well pump should have one built in, an above-ground pump will need one.

Aaron Z

For my in-ground pump, the well driller installed a check valve since the pump didn't have one. So check with whoever installs the pump to see if it already has one. The in-ground pump should be sitting in the water so priming it should not be needed. Since you are in Florida, you shouldn't have to worry about freezing of the water in the pipes so I'd use a check valve.

Another thing to check is if there is a minimum "on" time the pump needs to run to cool the pump. Mine is 2 minutes.

 

[1930]

For my in-ground pump, the well driller installed a check valve since the pump didn't have one. So check with whoever installs the pump to see if it already has one. The in-ground pump should be sitting in the water so priming it should not be needed. Since you are in Florida, you shouldn't have to worry about freezing of the water in the pipes so I'd use a check valve.

Another thing to check is if there is a minimum "on" time the pump needs to run to cool the pump. Mine is 2 minutes.

Thanks everyone for the tips/advice.

At this point I have to see what I am obligated toward I guess. I know the well company pulled permits ( or at least Im assuming since its all part of their package deal ) Maybe its a fact that they need to do things a certain way to appease the county if ever there was an inspection.

If that is the case than Ill deal with doing things the way that I want them done after alls said and done and just eat the extra expense. I may have no choice

 

[aczlan]

In ground. I thought I had seen u tubers installing valves with in ground systems? I guess I was mistaken or not same scenario. Thanks

If they have an underground pump, they would most likely be installing a check valve after the pump rather than a foot valve (a check valve only allows water to go one way, a foot valve has a check valve as well as a screen to keep crud out of the valve).

Aaron Z

 

[1930]

I did not know there was a difference. Ill try and remember that. Thanks

 

[TheGoose]

It’s pretty simple. Galv wells get the pump hung on galv, pvc wells get the pump hung on pvc or plastic. The reason is that a 4” pump is really 3.9” and it’s a tight fit in a 4” well. In the future when that needs to come out you may need rigid pipe so you can free the pump from the scale and rust build up.

We don’t use galv pipe for wells here anymore.