How would you [safely] take down this tree?

[RSR]

I need to start clearing some land, but the first thing I need to tackle is this wind damaged tree that has been hanging out like this for about 5 years.

Any suggestions on a safe way to get it down?

 

[Fuddy1952]

To me it depends on what equipment you have. It looks like a couple trees in front of it. Me, I would throw a small rope tied to an adjustable wrench around middle, over about where that 3ft tall stump is. Then a good chain tied to rope, or a heavy duty pull strap, pull up and over.
Pull that far away as you can with truck, tractor, winch. You just need to dislodge it from main tree, get it on the ground however you have to drag it out.
Then cut it up.

 

[Fuddy1952]

Small rope of course allows you to pull something substantial up and over (not pull by).

 

[RSR]

To me it depends on what equipment you have. It looks like a couple trees in front of it. Me, I would throw a small rope tied to an adjustable wrench around middle, over about where that 3ft tall stump is. Then a good chain tied to rope, or a heavy duty pull strap, pull up and over.
Pull that far away as you can with truck, tractor, winch. You just need to dislodge it from main tree, get it on the ground however you have to drag it out.
Then cut it up.

The picture doesn't show it well, but there is probably still 6-8 inches thick of wood that is hinged to the main tree (on the left). I don't think I'll be able to simply pull it off. I think I have to cut it.

My thought was go up a ladder on the left tree, and cut it at the hinge point, so it drops down away from the tree. I don't like the idea of being on a ladder, 15 ft in the air, when everything let's go, though. A lot can go wrong quickly, including the tree potentially springing back (and bucking me off the ladder) when the split portion is cut off.

 

[civilian]

The picture doesn't show it well, but there is probably still 6-8 inches thick of wood that is hinged to the main tree (on the left). I don't think I'll be able to simply pull it off. I think I have to cut it.

My thought was go up a ladder on the left tree, and cut it at the hinge point, so it drops down away from the tree. I don't like the idea of being on a ladder, 15 ft in the air, when everything let's go, though. A lot can go wrong quickly, including the tree potentially springing back (and bucking me off the ladder) when the split portion is cut off.

Bucket truck, not ladder. From the left side. Away from where the tree will drop straight down. I have a couple like yours and I plan on letting the wind bring them down. But I don't need them down now. That left hinge does not look very strong. Is upper tree wedged against the next treeto the right from the left hinge? If it is not touching the upper one, cut it out of the way and pull at the left hinge like Fuddy suggested. Jon

 

[Industrial Toys]

I too would have a heavy enough piece of equipment, long wire rope or chain, long enough to be well out of harms way, strong enough and just put brute force to it.

Funny. Used that approach a few weekends ago. Garbage picked a mile of good heavy swing stage rope, a friend was taking to the dump. Rope doubled up, just snapped like nothing. It wasn't a dangerous situation, but I am thankful that it wasn't in a critical application.

 

[4570Man]

Trees and ladders are a terrible combination. I’d go with the throwing the rope and pulling it down approach.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Agree. If it wasn't for all the ladder/saw (fail) videos I have seen, I probably wouldn't think much of it.


I also used the Oregon Electric Pole saw to stay away from danger. Just got to be carefull not to get it bound up, which could make you do something stupid to save your saw.

 

[RSR]

Bucket truck, not ladder. From the left side. Away from where the tree will drop straight down. I have a couple like yours and I plan on letting the wind bring them down. But I don't need them down now. That left hinge does not look very strong. Is upper tree wedged against the next treeto the right from the left hinge? If it is not touching the upper one, cut it out of the way and pull at the left hinge like Fuddy suggested. Jon

No, the upper (cross portion) of the tree is completely free. It is hinged on the left end, and wedged in a crook on the right end. I've been waiting for a wind/snow/ice storm to bring it down for 5 years with no joy.

It sounds like the common consensus is use brute force. My tractor is ~7,000 lbs with everything on it. I just worry if I can get traction without rigging a pulley, as it will be pulling up on the rear end. I'll give it a try and see how it goes.

The option of using a pull saw to weaken the hinge may be a secondary approach if simply pulling on it doesn't work.

I agree ladders and chainsaws are a bad idea, especially at that height!

 

[kthompson]

If it broke and died 5 years ago would think the hinge would break with good pull. If tree top is still alive might not. Might suggestion is excavator with thumb on it. I would try pulling it where broken first but you might be well off to pull the top clear and let it drop putting more action into the hinge helping break it further. This is far out there but what is possibility of burning the tree trunk? Depending on the area, friend of mine used slugs in shotgun.

 

[Captain Dirty]

The picture doesn't show it well, but there is probably still 6-8 inches thick of wood that is hinged to the main tree (on the left). I don't think I'll be able to simply pull it off. I think I have to cut it.

My thought was go up a ladder on the left tree, and cut it at the hinge point, so it drops down away from the tree. I don't like the idea of being on a ladder, 15 ft in the air, when everything let's go, though. A lot can go wrong quickly, including the tree potentially springing back (and bucking me off the ladder) when the split portion is cut off.

If you do not feel confident, hire it out!

Start with Fuddy's advice. If you cannot pull it down at least you will have a line that provides more control than no line. If your attempts to cut the hinge are unsuccessful you will already have a line on the limb and will not have the risk of getting a line over a weakened widowmaker.

If you do use a ladder use an assistant both to foot the ladder and to get help should something go terribly wrong. Run the ladder up the left side of the tree to hopefully put you out of harm's way. Run the ladder above the limb so you will be working below chest level. If the bottom of the ladder is not on level ground block it so it is stable, and in any case stake the bottom. Lash the top of the ladder to the tree; if the tree moves or the limb strikes the ladder you will be less likely to be bucked off.

Think it through before you start. Especially worrisome to me is the splintered portion of the limb that extends to the left of the standing tree trunk. You have a better view than anyone looking at the photo and ultimately you are responsible. Again, if you have a doubt, hire it out.

 

[Johnston Tilliryy]

Do not get on a ladder. Go to treestuff.com and order a throw ball and line and watch a YouTube video on how to use it. Get a decent bull rope (5/8" or larger) and you'll have what you need to take the guess work out of dropping trees in the future. Again, no ladders!

 

[hosspuller]

With-out equipment, I would drop the tree with the hinge, 90 degrees to the hang-up. Working away from the hanger, Never under it.

Alternately, rope and winch at the top of the hanger. It's dead, so you'll be able to break off limbs until the whole hang falls.

 

[two_bit_score]

I need to start clearing some land, but the first thing I need to tackle is this wind damaged tree that has been hanging out like this for about 5 years.

Any suggestions on a safe way to get it down?View attachment 655037

You are going to start clearing some land. So use an excavator with a thumb and take out the hanging tree first and then get busy on the rest of the trees.



.

 

[Skeans1]

I need to start clearing some land, but the first thing I need to tackle is this wind damaged tree that has been hanging out like this for about 5 years.

Any suggestions on a safe way to get it down?View attachment 655037

If it was me I’d pick that triple topped tree to domino into the top of the other shooting for about where the red circle is. Now setting up something like this need to be done correctly use a humboldt face and a full face Dutchman with an extra kicker on the stump to try and get the butt on the ground fast as well as hard for extra force.
I have done stuff like this well falling timber it works but you need to be confident in your skills as well as getting out of the line of fire at the right time.

 

[CobyRupert]

Don’t use a ladder.
Don’t assume tree would come straight down with any cuts.
I vote for brute force from a far distance.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

No, the upper (cross portion) of the tree is completely free. It is hinged on the left end, and wedged in a crook on the right end. I've been waiting for a wind/snow/ice storm to bring it down for 5 years with no joy.

It sounds like the common consensus is use brute force. My tractor is ~7,000 lbs with everything on it. I just worry if I can get traction without rigging a pulley, as it will be pulling up on the rear end. I'll give it a try and see how it goes.

The option of using a pull saw to weaken the hinge may be a secondary approach if simply pulling on it doesn't work.

I agree ladders and chainsaws are a bad idea, especially at that height!

Run your pull line through a snatch block anchored at ground level and a lot of ballast in the FEL or tractor front. That will keep you tractor rear weheels pulling and not being lifted.

Ron

 

[fatjay]

Stuff can get heavy/squirly when falling. 25' ratchet straps from harbor freight, the heavy yellow ones, can be had cheap. Get 2 of them and strap them together so you can get far enough away. Pull from the right side at maybe a 45 degree angle so it swings out. You'll have a good chance of breaking the right side. I wouldn't use a chainsaw with it sitting like that, there's no telling what way it's pushing or pulling. best case a pinched saw blade, worst case it comes down on you.

 

[Diggin It]

Ropes, straps or cables under tension have been known to snap suddenly and violently lashing back toward the pulling vehicle, leading to unfortunate and messy results that could prevent the OP from posting here ... or anywhere else ever again.

Have somebody do it that has the experience and equipment.

 

[Johnston Tilliryy]

A good bull rope 5/8" or larger as I recommended above has a 15-20,000lb average breaking strength and are low elasticity to prevent whiplash. Samson is the brand I would recommend. A throwball to set a running bowline at the most rotten spot and tied off 50' away to a 7k lb tractor is very safe... if you have a good rope. Tractor will spin before you break the rope.

I agree it is dangerous if you use tools not meant for the job. There is a reason real arborist rope is so much more than the stuff at the hardware store.