How would you [safely] take down this tree?

[Captain Dirty]

The picture doesn't show it well, but there is probably still 6-8 inches thick of wood that is hinged to the main tree (on the left). I don't think I'll be able to simply pull it off. I think I have to cut it.

My thought was go up a ladder on the left tree, and cut it at the hinge point, so it drops down away from the tree. I don't like the idea of being on a ladder, 15 ft in the air, when everything let's go, though. A lot can go wrong quickly, including the tree potentially springing back (and bucking me off the ladder) when the split portion is cut off.

If you do not feel confident, hire it out!

Start with Fuddy's advice. If you cannot pull it down at least you will have a line that provides more control than no line. If your attempts to cut the hinge are unsuccessful you will already have a line on the limb and will not have the risk of getting a line over a weakened widowmaker.

If you do use a ladder use an assistant both to foot the ladder and to get help should something go terribly wrong. Run the ladder up the left side of the tree to hopefully put you out of harm's way. Run the ladder above the limb so you will be working below chest level. If the bottom of the ladder is not on level ground block it so it is stable, and in any case stake the bottom. Lash the top of the ladder to the tree; if the tree moves or the limb strikes the ladder you will be less likely to be bucked off.

Think it through before you start. Especially worrisome to me is the splintered portion of the limb that extends to the left of the standing tree trunk. You have a better view than anyone looking at the photo and ultimately you are responsible. Again, if you have a doubt, hire it out.

 

[Johnston Tilliryy]

Do not get on a ladder. Go to treestuff.com and order a throw ball and line and watch a YouTube video on how to use it. Get a decent bull rope (5/8" or larger) and you'll have what you need to take the guess work out of dropping trees in the future. Again, no ladders!

 

[hosspuller]

With-out equipment, I would drop the tree with the hinge, 90 degrees to the hang-up. Working away from the hanger, Never under it.

Alternately, rope and winch at the top of the hanger. It's dead, so you'll be able to break off limbs until the whole hang falls.

 

[two_bit_score]

I need to start clearing some land, but the first thing I need to tackle is this wind damaged tree that has been hanging out like this for about 5 years.

Any suggestions on a safe way to get it down?View attachment 655037

You are going to start clearing some land. So use an excavator with a thumb and take out the hanging tree first and then get busy on the rest of the trees.



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[Skeans1]

I need to start clearing some land, but the first thing I need to tackle is this wind damaged tree that has been hanging out like this for about 5 years.

Any suggestions on a safe way to get it down?View attachment 655037

If it was me I’d pick that triple topped tree to domino into the top of the other shooting for about where the red circle is. Now setting up something like this need to be done correctly use a humboldt face and a full face Dutchman with an extra kicker on the stump to try and get the butt on the ground fast as well as hard for extra force.
I have done stuff like this well falling timber it works but you need to be confident in your skills as well as getting out of the line of fire at the right time.

 

[CobyRupert]

Don’t use a ladder.
Don’t assume tree would come straight down with any cuts.
I vote for brute force from a far distance.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

No, the upper (cross portion) of the tree is completely free. It is hinged on the left end, and wedged in a crook on the right end. I've been waiting for a wind/snow/ice storm to bring it down for 5 years with no joy.

It sounds like the common consensus is use brute force. My tractor is ~7,000 lbs with everything on it. I just worry if I can get traction without rigging a pulley, as it will be pulling up on the rear end. I'll give it a try and see how it goes.

The option of using a pull saw to weaken the hinge may be a secondary approach if simply pulling on it doesn't work.

I agree ladders and chainsaws are a bad idea, especially at that height!

Run your pull line through a snatch block anchored at ground level and a lot of ballast in the FEL or tractor front. That will keep you tractor rear weheels pulling and not being lifted.

Ron

 

[fatjay]

Stuff can get heavy/squirly when falling. 25' ratchet straps from harbor freight, the heavy yellow ones, can be had cheap. Get 2 of them and strap them together so you can get far enough away. Pull from the right side at maybe a 45 degree angle so it swings out. You'll have a good chance of breaking the right side. I wouldn't use a chainsaw with it sitting like that, there's no telling what way it's pushing or pulling. best case a pinched saw blade, worst case it comes down on you.

 

[Diggin It]

Ropes, straps or cables under tension have been known to snap suddenly and violently lashing back toward the pulling vehicle, leading to unfortunate and messy results that could prevent the OP from posting here ... or anywhere else ever again.

Have somebody do it that has the experience and equipment.

 

[Johnston Tilliryy]

A good bull rope 5/8" or larger as I recommended above has a 15-20,000lb average breaking strength and are low elasticity to prevent whiplash. Samson is the brand I would recommend. A throwball to set a running bowline at the most rotten spot and tied off 50' away to a 7k lb tractor is very safe... if you have a good rope. Tractor will spin before you break the rope.

I agree it is dangerous if you use tools not meant for the job. There is a reason real arborist rope is so much more than the stuff at the hardware store.