Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[zzvyb6]

I suggest you luanch the tractor into orbit. The cold of space will shrink the broken bolt stub so that it can be removed by hand (wear special gloves with oxygen supply). No need to waste valuable time looking for a Vice Grips (although they might have a spare pair on the International Space Station.

Get the welder crowd back to waxing their exhaust manifolds, FHS. Seem to be nut jobs, eh ? What size nut (English or metric, hex or square, chrome plated or untreated) ?

 

[LouNY]

I suggest you luanch the tractor into orbit. The cold of space will shrink the broken bolt stub so that it can be removed by hand (wear special gloves with oxygen supply). No need to waste valuable time looking for a Vice Grips (although they might have a spare pair on the International Space Station.

Get the welder crowd back to waxing their exhaust manifolds, FHS. Seem to be nut jobs, eh ? What size nut (English or metric, hex or square, chrome plated or untreated) ?

What ever I find in my used not quite junk bolt bucket that fits.

 

[Richard]

Hope you're not asking me what size.... First, It's going to be metric. The sheared bolt itself appears to be about 1/4, maybe slightly larger on the shaft.

The OTHER end of the cylinder has the same pin and bolt system to attach.....so I have a perfectly sized bolt that I can sacrafice. All I'd need to do is take the threaded rod (for the OTHER end that is intact) to store to get a nut for it.

Got to brother in laws....brought home a "Miller Big Blue 400". On its own trailer, diesel engine... my other guy has been sending me a text saying he needs to get here to assess the situation (yes!)...

So again, one way or another something is going to happen. I'll happily buy a welding helmet if that's what it takes. I've got some other things I could practice on (if I end up doing something.....I am after all.....kind of stubborn)

If my guy comes, then the sooner the better! I don't yet have the rebuild kit for the cylinder so I'm not losing any time that would not otherwise be lost so I'm still pretty patient about it.

Heck, maybe we'll all have another several days we can yack about this while the ball sits in place... (sigh).

Lest anyone become concerned about the loader bucket hanging in the air while this is being worked on... it's not. You can see the large rock I placed there as my support for it.

 

[Richard]

Hope you're not asking me what size.... First, It's going to be metric. The sheared bolt itself appears to be about 1/4, maybe slightly larger on the shaft.

The OTHER end of the cylinder has the same pin and bolt system to attach.....so I have a perfectly sized bolt that I can sacrafice. All I'd need to do is take the threaded rod (for the OTHER end that is intact) to store to get a nut for it.

Got to brother in laws....brought home a "Miller Big Blue 400". On its own trailer, diesel engine... my other guy has been sending me a text saying he needs to get here to assess the situation (yes!)...

So again, one way or another something is going to happen. I'll happily buy a welding helmet if that's what it takes. I've got some other things I could practice on (if I end up doing something.....I am after all.....kind of stubborn)

If my guy comes, then the sooner the better! I don't yet have the rebuild kit for the cylinder so I'm not losing any time that would not otherwise be lost so I'm still pretty patient about it.

Heck, maybe we'll all have another several days we can yack about this while the ball sits in place... (sigh).

 

[Richard]

Strange... I posted, saw the post and pictures. Clicked on a picture and the first one is sideways. During process of backing out, when I saw post, it had zero pictures......so.... added them. now what shows are two identical posts. I don't know this has ever happened to me on this site.

Sorry for duplication. I went to delete the content.... but the pictures wouldn't disappear... so just left it be.

Heck, if I can't handle a duplicate post, can I handle a welder on my own!!! HA!

 

[Jstpssng]

So you now have a welder on site... a broken tractor, which won't be fixed right off... now all that you need is some scrap steel and you can start practicing!

Trust me, you aren't the first, or even the 12th person to have a double post.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have been trying to get out a seized screw from a terminal strip. The issues are all quite the same. No big deal except the terminal block extends through a bulkhead so I can't just terminate the leads in the air and call it a day.

Tried heating with one of those two foot long 1950s soldering iron and fially just broke the head off. Actually managed to drill it out with a 1/4" Atlas-Copco air drill using a 1/32" bit, then larger. Quality drill bits are your friend but it took an hour to find one! Then had an industrial easy out for a one inch bolt but not a #8 screw!. Managed to retap the hole anyway. Ten minute job took a day!

I guess, my point is, you can HAVE a bunch of resources and still find yourself fighting a loosing battle. Hardly a WIN in the end if it took so much valuable time.

 

[Richard]

So you now have a welder on site... a broken tractor, which won't be fixed right off... now all that you need is some scrap steel and you can start practicing!

I've got the round "base" that a trailer hitch jack stand would mount to....and let you swivel the jack horizontal.....

My flexwing mower had one.....snapped off. I'm wondering if that might be a nice thing to play around with.

I don't have any steel "laying around".... wood yes, metal, nope.

So...question for those who know how to weld.... I'd imagine this welder, if it's the tool used, will use just about any rod that a home owner might need.....

What would be the best type & size to use for the nut/bolt? I think I understand that you can get them as small as 1/8th inch??? Would I be better off getting a thin one to try to weld around the inner circumference, or get a larger one so when it's put in the center and touches the bolt, it will blast about in a circular way?


Again, for total disclosure, I have never as much welded a gum wrapper and today is the longest I've ever even held the end of one or touched a machine..... I have probably 3 minutes total from putting it in the car, taking it out of car and mounting it to the machine so I know what to do.

Literally, zero experience which is why I first prefer my pal to get his hiney over here. This is one of those "I need a professional" and that, I ain't.

 

[Richard]

I mean what number stamped on the rod would be best for me to use? I know there's a numbering system but don't know anything about what it all means.

So, if someone could say "you need a 7042" for the bolt/nut.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I said it earlier. Not the project I would pick to learn to weld. Not sure why the thread turned to figuring out a way to power a welder. Kind of a moot point, if you ask me.

That technique takes some finese and experience. Welding the thing into a blob simply won't be very productive. Sorry to be blunt.

I also could be miles off base, but I would not attempt that with a stick welder. Well, maybe the bolt is big enough to work with a stick, but again, some experience would help.