Anyone ever mount a level to there box blade for grading out roads?

[BlueKnife]

Like Alex Trebek says - "the three P's". Practice, practice, practice. Any type of level will only indicate when the implement is level with the world. Not how it should be angled to properly get the job accomplished.

Yup. Really the only possible reason I could see for a level with a grading implement is to get the tractor and implement parallel with each other, and that'd only be needed if there was no flat surface available anywhere to adjust on. The tractor would have to be jacked up on the low side till it was level and then the implement could be leveled. I can't imagine a scenario where that kind of precision would be needed, but that'd be a way to do it if desired.

 

[npalen]

I'm a little surprised to see the "less than positive" comments for this idea as the OP is simply wanting to know which way the water is going to run. Yes, you can usually have a pretty good idea which way the terrain is sloped but I've been surprised a few times when "breaking out the bubble". Then all bets are off when trying to do this in rugged country.

 

[jjp8182]

I've considered doing this a few times ...haven't done so yet, but I've also considered just adding a simple plumb bob which may be easier to see from the tractor seat (and potentially easier to create from scratch).

Either would likely be much cheaper than a GPS receivers made for such things.

I'm assuming you're considering this because you're wanting to understand what slope to add to the road relative to gravity not just to determine level to the tractor/existing road surface (if the latter a pair of devices - or measurements would likely be needed so both the tractor and the box blade could be measured relative to the world in an absolute sense, and then compared to each other).

I'm actually intrigued by that level in the picture since it looks to be indicating level with the center at the bottom than the top of the arch, which makes me think it's using something other than air for indicating level. From what I've typically seen levels using air bubbles would normally be bent the other way in order to use the buoyancy of the air to indicate level. In that picture it almost looks like an object/substance denser than water is being used to indicate level with center point being the lowest point rather than the highest.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

If that's the purpose, no need to attach it. Just set a torpedo level on it, adjust, stick the level in your pocket and carry on.

Then I'd have to get on and off the tractor repeatedly. I've already tried a magnetic torpedo level, it falls off almost immediately.

@8182, that plumb bob ain't a bad idea

 

[npalen]

Amazon.com: Wheel Masters 67 Level Master: Automotive

The picture shows what appears to be a metal ball possibly. I could see this working in a high viscosity fluid such as glycerin. Video also at bottom of page.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Short of using a level to determine slope for safety, most terrain is just too undulating to make a level useful for anything. Even flatwork requires a slope.

 

[/pine]

I maintain "twisty mountain roads going up and down and winding all around"...and I've never needed anything other than my box blade, rear blade or rake to tell me that it is doing what I want...
...I know which way I want the water to run off...I merely adjust the side link to cut more aggressively or entirely on that side until it creates the desired pitch or crown...The side of the implement that is not cutting is always going to end up being higher than the side that is being cut...

If you do this on a perfectly level lane to start...every pass will exponentially increase the pitch etc. because after the first pass the tractor itself will be on the angle the first (and successive passes) pass creates...

 

[hosspuller]

I don't believe a level on the BB will help. First, you don't want the road to be level. It won't shed water and develop potholes. When grading the road, you want to put a crown in the middle. You can do this by setting you blade a bit high on the left, while you work on the right. Then on the return trip, again working the right, the left side of the BB will leave a crown.

If you have long stretches of slope, you want to put diagonal swales to carry off some of the water every so often. Volumes of running water works against you. You must divert and spread the water from your road.

 

[CoyPatton]

My 2 cents worth! I live in an area where lots of row crops are raised and irrigated.
First ditch the thoughts of ‘level’! A level has its place, but when speaking of land the terminology is ‘grade’! In roof construction ‘pitch’ and so forth.
With grade in mine if your tractor is on a grade then do is your BB. When you change your tilt, you change your grade! (You may increase the grade or decrease the grade compared to your tractor.)
From living in other areas, any preexisting slope of the land is a bear to redirect water flow. It can be done but be prepared for it to take lots of correction.
I am sure you have areas of your drive that are worse, these will be the most difficult to correct in my opinion and thus the most frustrating to work.
I suggest studying these areas to get a feel for how water wants to flow, then patch these spots up. Go to less washout areas and apply what you learned from studying the worse areas. Then from notes evaluate your work on the less troublesome areas to see what worked and what did not.
Changing water flow is one of the toughest projects I think exist.
Also work small areas and mark them for your notes in some manner.
And in my opinion a football field length is mot a small area. It may be nothing to your drive, but for water flow, you may have a dozen or more issues happening. 2-3 issues is plenty when trying to control water flow. Also if possible work from the high end to the low end of water flow.
Good luck it is a challenge.

 

[/pine]

My 2 cents worth! I live in an area where lots of row crops are raised and irrigated.
First ditch the thoughts of ‘level’! A level has its place, but when speaking of land the terminology is ‘grade’! In roof construction ‘pitch’ and so forth.
With grade in mine if your tractor is on a grade then do is your BB. When you change your tilt, you change your grade! (You may increase the grade or decrease the grade compared to your tractor.)
From living in other areas, any preexisting slope of the land is a bear to redirect water flow. It can be done but be prepared for it to take lots of correction.
I am sure you have areas of your drive that are worse, these will be the most difficult to correct in my opinion and thus the most frustrating to work.
I suggest studying these areas to get a feel for how water wants to flow, then patch these spots up. Go to less washout areas and apply what you learned from studying the worse areas. Then from notes evaluate your work on the less troublesome areas to see what worked and what did not.
Changing water flow is one of the toughest projects I think exist.
Also work small areas and mark them for your notes in some manner.
And in my opinion a football field length is mot a small area. It may be nothing to your drive, but for water flow, you may have a dozen or more issues happening. 2-3 issues is plenty when trying to control water flow. Also if possible work from the high end to the low end of water flow.
Good luck it is a challenge.

LoL...It's not rocket science...the one thing that makes it a little difficult is when (for varying reasons) the runoff must be forced to the natural high side (typical in mountainous regions)...and BTW...nomenclature is arbitrary...